350 clutch problems
- bkbridge77
- MC crawler
- Posts: 3
- Joined: Tue Feb 07, 2012 6:27 pm
- Location: New York
350 clutch problems
Hi Guys, looking for some advise. Just bought an early 70's (i think) 350. Was told they just put a new cluctch in recently. had the dozer deliverd, went to run it the next day. Moved about 100yards, when i hit the clutch the pedal went all the way to the floor, and i heard a rattleing under my feet. When i pulled the floor pans to investigate i found the roll pin conecting the clutch pedal linkage was sheard. I replaced the roll pin, clucth seemed to be working fine. i started the dozer, worked the clucth, seemed to be working. i let it run for about 20min while i adjust the track, and looked it over good. Went to move and heard that rattle again. Thought it sheard the pin again. Upon inspection the following day, the roll pin is still whole. The arm that goes through thr housing, which i assume runs the throuout bearning has abut 1/2" of play. if i push it in the rod will spin quite a ways. if i pull out on it, it seems to have pressure on it.
Now that the story is out of the way, heres my question. if i drop the skid plate is there an insection plate i can remove under the clutch housing or do i have to split the dozer to see whats going on?
Now that the story is out of the way, heres my question. if i drop the skid plate is there an insection plate i can remove under the clutch housing or do i have to split the dozer to see whats going on?
Depending on the age of your little 350 the later ones didn't have a clutch .Just a dumper valve and a spring filled or large rubber unit Deere calls a torsional insulator between the motor and transmission .I had a wide track B series we changed over to rubber and a C series that was changed over as well as a 350D series that was built with the rubber torsional insulator drive.But you will have to take it apart at the bell housing to get all the bad news .There are several on here that can guide you better than I can on this project but we are never far away.Digitup.
Digitup is right! I think you will have to pull the motor to see what is going on but lets do first things first.
Does your 350 have a hydraulic reverser? Or is it a manual clutch and only a gear driven transmission?
From the way I read what you describe, it sounds like you have a manual clutch. It also sounds like it may be the throw out bearing is probably the issue and you will have to pull the engine out far enough to see what is actually going on. It could be the throw out bearing collar is broken or the bearing itself. It could be a couple different things but the best way to see it is to remove the motor.
If you have a reverser then it could be the Isolator as Digitup described. Either way the motor needs to come out first.
Your picture shows a pretty sweet little machine though! I like the ROPS that someone has put on. Good luck!!
Does your 350 have a hydraulic reverser? Or is it a manual clutch and only a gear driven transmission?
From the way I read what you describe, it sounds like you have a manual clutch. It also sounds like it may be the throw out bearing is probably the issue and you will have to pull the engine out far enough to see what is actually going on. It could be the throw out bearing collar is broken or the bearing itself. It could be a couple different things but the best way to see it is to remove the motor.
If you have a reverser then it could be the Isolator as Digitup described. Either way the motor needs to come out first.
Your picture shows a pretty sweet little machine though! I like the ROPS that someone has put on. Good luck!!
40 plus years working on JD 350s, 400Gs, 450s and other equipment both Ag and Construction.
I need to add something here. If your machine has a reverser, then these things have a rattle that is innately part of being a 350. Those spring Isolators are noisy! Especially at an idle or slightly above. They really rattle when shutting them down as well.
So lets establish what you have first and then we will go from there.
So lets establish what you have first and then we will go from there.
40 plus years working on JD 350s, 400Gs, 450s and other equipment both Ag and Construction.
- bkbridge77
- MC crawler
- Posts: 3
- Joined: Tue Feb 07, 2012 6:27 pm
- Location: New York
If you will go to sreamineagles thread on his oil leak issue you can read the description of what you will have to do to pull your motor. It's written by kenp and that's about as straight forward as it gets.
You will need to do all of what he has described except the blocking up of the loader boom. Personally I run these 350s up on some good tie blocks just to gain a little clearance .
If for some reason you need to raise your blade for access under the dozer, then be sure to block it up for safety. Never trust your hydraulics to hold anything in place.
Obviously if you have any questions then you can always check here with us.
Good Luck!!
You will need to do all of what he has described except the blocking up of the loader boom. Personally I run these 350s up on some good tie blocks just to gain a little clearance .
If for some reason you need to raise your blade for access under the dozer, then be sure to block it up for safety. Never trust your hydraulics to hold anything in place.
Obviously if you have any questions then you can always check here with us.
Good Luck!!
40 plus years working on JD 350s, 400Gs, 450s and other equipment both Ag and Construction.
- bkbridge77
- MC crawler
- Posts: 3
- Joined: Tue Feb 07, 2012 6:27 pm
- Location: New York
Thanks guys. I am going to try and get in into the garage today, and pull of some panels. The limb riser do come off but i think ill have to remove the cage to fit in the garage. I have some experiance changing motors and trannys on a few trucks, and tractors, so i do should have most of the tools needed beside the manual, which i will take Ken's advise and pick up before i start any major work. I will take some pics along the way. Thanks for all your help.
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