New track on JD 350 CB How to compress spring?

[shanty]

Installed all new rollers and sprocket, now trying to put new chain (rail) on and am unable to compress the spring enough to join the chain. We have all the grease out of the tightener and with the spring out we can connect the chain so we know that the front idler will slide back far enough. Is there a specal tool to use or what is our next step. We had 2 1.5 ton come alongs on it and a 20 ton bottle jack between the bucket and the front idler roll (not sure the term for that roller) and a 2 ton chain fall pulling the chain together. We are still out 1.5 inches. Next step if there is no tool or better ideas is to cut 1.5" off of the what I would call the piston on the spring side of the tightener and machine it in deeper for the spring bolt head and throw the peice in the tool box to weld back on in another 30 years if we need the travel to keep it tight. Only use the machine at most 50hrs a year. Any help would be great Thanks Troy

[Paul45]

I would check the measurement of the spring. someone had loosened the spring on mine not sure why. are you sure the piston is retracked all the way? also count your chain links to be sure it is the right lenght. Good luck

[Tigerhaze]

Are you trying to join the track on a flat even surface? I have noticed with my 2010 that on uneven surfaces such as in a field a little uneven ground can take up just enough of the slack under the bottom rollers to make joining at the sprocket difficult or impossible. I would suspect that is even a bigger issue with all new undercarriage parts.

Also are you trying to join at the sprocket? It is near impossible to do on the front idler or elsewhere because the sprocket helps hold the one end in place while you stretch the other end.

I would check what Paul mentioned- especially with older hydarulic adjusters the grease may push all out but may still not fully retract due to rust or grime on the rod of the adjuster.

All of those things cumulatively could add up to the one and half inches you are short. It's a pretty tight fit when joining, even when track is worn.

[Lavoy]

You never run a track tight, compressing the spring and running it would really grossly accelerate wear. There is something causing the problem like the other guys have mentioned, you just need to find it.
Lavoy

[shanty]

Any tips for pulling the tightener (greaseable piston) to make sure its clean and all the way in? Also anyone know the original length of the piston I was told some guys use to extend the piston to get a little more life out of a worn track? Thaqnks for the help Troy

[LeonardL]

Well... Don't cut anything Only if someone has added an extension onto the ram should you cut! Period!! And then only what they have added! With that said you also want to be extremely careful about compressing the spring. Although it is tough to keep from doing.
Make sure you do indeed have the right track rails for your 350. You should have 36 links on each side. Make sure the rails fit your lower rollers and your sprockets. They need to be centered, sitting inside the flanges of the rollers and the bushings should fit all the way into the sprocket. Not riding up on the teeth.
I would first establish that the large bolt that keeps the spring at a set dimension has not broken. There are actually two springs. One inside the other. This bolt goes down the center of the two springs and is held by two nuts. The first holds the length dimension and the other is a lock nut.
If the bolt is broken then there is where at least part of your issue is. If broken it allows the springs to be fully extended and it shoves the adjuster too far forward and it won't allow you to connect your rails.
Your issue can also be as already mentioned and that is your adjuster is not collapsed all the way. You need to make sure that is bottomed out. It could either still have grease in it or it could be stuck and not collapsing all the way. What ever the reason you need to check this.
Another issue that has also been mentioned, is you need the machine on a good solid flat surface and the machine needs to be sitting squarely in the lower rollers. If you are outside and on the ground you need to get a good flat wide board for it to sit on.
I usually try to position the the rails where the connection will be made about half way up on the sprocket. Before you do this, you need to work as much of the slack as you can out from under the machine.
I leave the rear of the machine down on the track and raise the front just enough to allow the slack to be pulled out from under the machine. You may need to jack the rear up just enough so the sprocket can turn with out engaging the rails.
Try to get the track over the top of the sprocket enough so you can use the engine at idle to help take the slack out. This is a tricky thing to do so be careful!!!!
Do one side at a time! Pull the steering lever of the side you don't want to move and with the machine in reverse, ease out on the clutch just enough for the track to start to move. Watch the slack and as it pulls up tight have your foot ready on the park brake and set it to hold the track in place. Be careful you don't pull the track out from under the machine as you do this. As I said this is tricky! But it works!!
Try to position the rails so the sprocket is lined with the links and not sitting with a tooth on a bushing. Once you have done this, use a small jack or a pry bar and blocks to lift the bottom pad and link up against and into position on the sprocket. The top pad should be ready to align with the bottom.

Make sure that all is well with the adjuster and spring and that the rails you have are correct and it should go together without compressing the shock spring.
Make sure the adjuster ram is fitting into the socket on the spring and that there is no dirt built up in it. Also make sure the ram is able to move freely inside the cross member and isn't rusted in position there. Everything needs to be clean and working freely.
I'm sure I probably left something out and if I did I apologize. These other guys are usually pretty good about filling in the blanks.
This should work if you take your time and be patient. Patients being the key word here. Good Luck! If you have questions be sure to ask!

[18vtx00]

Length of spring should be 14 7/8" One of mine had backed off and was 2 " too long. Now I can leave the chain in one piece, compress the adjuster all the way and slide the springs in place as long as you can push the idler forward enough.

[jdemaris]

Installed all new rollers and sprocket, now trying to put new chain (rail) on and am unable to compress the spring enough to join the chain.

Spring shouldn't have anything to do with it UNLESS the spring stop bolt is broken - which is common in 350s. If so, you need a new bolt and a big press to compress the spring and install the new one.