stering clutches

rcs110 · Post by **rcs110** » Mon Jun 18, 2012 8:42 pm

well I took it apart about 3 hrs and a back hoe to put the drive in my truck.

just got done taking the clutches apart here are some pictures.

,

A lot of rust and pits !!!

rcs110 · Post by **rcs110** » Tue Jun 19, 2012 4:06 pm

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Post by **Lavoy** » Tue Jun 19, 2012 5:15 pm

Brake band looks like it might have been replaced not too many hours ago.
Get all of the oil and grease out of the housing you can, Easy Off oven cleaner and brake cleaner work great if you are not near a steamer.
Get the shaft out, it should have stayed with the final. Clean everything that rotates or adjusts up real good, and apply anti-seize.
Lavoy

andregrondin · Post by **andregrondin** » Tue Jun 19, 2012 8:24 pm

good job Bob , keep it up and you will enjoy the ride after ,

you should remove everything from there and clean it up completely
it will take a bit of time but you will never have to do it again .

rcs110 · Post by **rcs110** » Sun Jul 01, 2012 7:27 pm

Well drive shaft is rusted in the gear housing. Trying to soak it with oil . Any idear on how to pull it out.

rcs110 · Post by **rcs110** » Sun Jul 01, 2012 7:35 pm

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shinnery · Post by **shinnery** » Sun Jul 01, 2012 11:56 pm

Chrysler Automobiles from 57 til the early 80s used torsion bars for the front suspension springs and when they needed to be removed a tool that bolted together in two halves was clamped around the bar so that all the force could be put on the tool and not mar the bar. I believe you could bolt together two pieces of angle iron or something around the shaft and then pry on the tool from two sides at once to convince it to slide out. I know what I am trying to say but may not be explaining it very well, sorry.
Bryce

I did some searching and found this, the one I was thinking of had two bolts on each side.

LeonardL · Post by **LeonardL** » Mon Jul 02, 2012 6:35 am

I have only seen this one time in my entire career. Usually these axles are stuck in the clutch packs.
I used a bearing splitter clamped around the shaft just behind the splines and then attached a five pound slide hammer to the splitter. It didn't take much to jar it loose.
On the machine I was working on, I had both sides removed. Once I removed the first axle with the slide hammer, I was able to use a hammer and large drift punch to simply drive the other side out. These ring assemblies go all the way through to both sides.
When you re-install this axle you need to use "Anti Seize" on the splines to keep it from seizing. Both ends!

rcs110 · Post by **rcs110** » Thu Jul 05, 2012 4:14 pm

Thanks for the info. Going to have to make a puller for it and some heat to get it free .

rcs110 · Post by **rcs110** » Tue Jul 24, 2012 7:54 pm

well just got done making a puller to remove drive shaft from rear gear going to see if this works this coming sat. all so made a final drive bracket to hold the final drive in place. I hope this works would like to order all the parts that i need to get this 350 back working again.

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WMc · Post by **WMc** » Tue Jul 24, 2012 8:27 pm

This forum is great....
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After I fix my injector pump....I need to work on the steering clutches.
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The photos you posted are so helpful.
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Please post more pics as you go through the repair.
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I would really like to see the new/recon. parts as they go back in.
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I'll follow the advice from you and others on how to do this
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Great Post!!!!!
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I'm learning alot....

rcs110 · Post by **rcs110** » Tue Jul 24, 2012 8:42 pm

a lot of people here have helped me with this i just got this 350 end of march, ran into a few problems as you can see, and with the help from the books and other people here, I have done this job myself and its not that hard of a job once you get into it, just have to make a few tools to make it work in taking the drive off. will post again on sat if every thing works out.
with the puller that i made.

rcs110 · Post by **rcs110** » Sun Jul 29, 2012 7:06 pm

Up DATE what a weekend a day on sat, no lock drive shaft would not come out

. got up this morning and I changed the way that I put the puller on the housing , sat broke 4 bolts that the clamp and bent the 3/4 bolts that I used to pull on the drive shaft as per pics

this morning I put the puller on a angle as per pic

about 30 mins into it could not tighten it any more so I went for broke and got out a 3' pipe added that to the wrench and started to tighten each nut the 6"-3/8 steal channel bent and twisted o boy 15 mins later a loud bang and I said shit the bolts broke,well bolt did not brake drive shaft broke free from the rust

had to keep moving the steel channel pulling it out another 1/2 hour . to think all they needed to do is put some anti-seize on it and it would have been so easy!!!!

can't wait to order all the parts now and get this thing back running.

WMc · Post by **WMc** » Mon Jul 30, 2012 5:40 pm

Glad to see you where able to get the shaft out with out damage.
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I'm waiting on some injector pump parts so I can get my crawler closer to the house. Then I'll tear into my dozer's steering clutches.
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The pics are great.....Keep'em coming

rcs110 · Post by **rcs110** » Mon Jul 30, 2012 6:51 pm

it was not easy. stopped by my friends shop today to show him the puller that he built with me , he could not believe how the 3/8 channel bent and twisted. spoke with Lavoy today and ordered the parts, will be posting more pics in a few weeks I hope as to be putting this back together.

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stering clutches

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