clutch and torsoinal isolator between engine/flywheel 350B

D.Light · Post by **D.Light** » Fri Jul 13, 2012 9:34 pm

I noticed an older post by Tigerhaze mentioning a clutch and torsoinal isolator between engine/flywheel 350B. http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... ansmission

Can someone please share some information on the torsional isolator and what the symptoms of a bad isolator would be?

My 350B will not move. I think it has a transmission issue, but a very experienced operator/mechanic friend insists my problem may be related to the isolator.

I was pushing a load of dirt and the loader just quit pushing after a momentary grinding sound. I could move the shifter initially, but now the shifter seems to be stuck in the neutral position. The loader had been occasionally popping out of first gear before this problem.

My machine does have a reverser.

All help is greatly appreciated!

LeonardL · Post by **LeonardL** » Sat Jul 14, 2012 8:11 am

Well,
I guess I'm the lucky guy that is going to tell you that your transmission is most likely toast! Given the information you have shared, I would believe that the isolator is probably okay. If it was the isolator, then it usually slings pieces of springs underneath the flywheel and locks the engine up or will make so much banging noise that surely you would want to shut it down. Your isolator will not have anything to do with your ability to shift the transmission.
The fact that your transmission has been jumping out of gear tells me that you have had a transmission issue for a while. Is there any oil in your transmission? Does it show on the dip stick?
I suspect that if you take the top off of the transmission you find a lot wrong inside. Typically you will find first and second gear sliders to be worn out. Then the bearings on the intermediate shaft will be shot as well. It very well could have been the bearings that went first and then your gears.
Either way you are looking at a bad transmission! Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but you have a lot of labor and cost to look forward to.
If you are lucky you might find a used transmission out there but you are still looking at a lot of labor. Good luck! Again I'm sorry!

Post by **Lavoy** » Sat Jul 14, 2012 10:14 am

I would have to agree with Leonard. Pull the shifter cover of the trans, you probably will be able to see something bad.
Lavoy

D.Light · Post by **D.Light** » Sat Jul 14, 2012 7:19 pm

Thanks for the comments LeonardL and Lavoy.

I was expecting the transmission might be the problem. As soon as I can get the ole' 350 out of the woods, I'll pull the cap off of the transmission.

By the way, I have found a transmission, reported to be off of a 350B, but the pics I have indicate the front shaft is a bit rough and the transmission has been sitting for a while. The transmission was reportedly rebuilt and shelved for stock and never installed... What you think about the front shaft being a bit rough?

Pics of available transmission for comments below>
http://webpages.charter.net/3dlights/Pics/T1.jpg
http://webpages.charter.net/3dlights/Pics/T2.jpg
http://webpages.charter.net/3dlights/Pics/T3.jpg

Post by **Lavoy** » Sat Jul 14, 2012 9:43 pm

Just my opinion, but to me a transmission is the absolute last place I would skimp on a crawler if for no other reason than it is the most work to get to and work on. The entire rest of the crawler is built off of the transmission for the most part.
I have no problem with swapping in a different transmission, just make sure that it is completely and correctly rebuilt prior to doing so.
Lavoy

CELSESSER · Post by **CELSESSER** » Sat Jul 14, 2012 10:15 pm

Just my opinion but there is nothing in those three pictures that says to me that that transmission was ever rebuilt. Why would anyone leave a worn out ground up input shaft in a transmission that they "rebuilt".
It might be a good core but if they are billing it as rebuilt and put on the shelf ---buyer beware!!

Chuck

LeonardL · Post by **LeonardL** » Sun Jul 15, 2012 8:52 am

WOW!

If this transmission has been rebuilt.... Then I am a Monkeys uncle!

I have to echo what has already been said! Why would you reuse an input shaft that looks as bad as this one does!? I have thrown away better shafts than this one and they were worn out!
I also agree that it might make a good core or if you have decent enough parts in your original transmission so you could combine the two. BUT!!!! I would not give any more than scrap iron price for this mess! Save your money and run!!

Post by **Lavoy** » Sun Jul 15, 2012 11:08 am

WOW, I had not looked at the pics til now. No way in hell I would run that input shaft. Anyone that would rebuild a transmission with that input shaft, I would consider all other work done, or maybe not done, suspect.
Input shaft is no big deal, I have new ones available.
Lavoy

CatD8RII · Post by **CatD8RII** » Sun Jul 15, 2012 4:11 pm

Just my 2 cents, and it might sound a bit like what everyone else is saying. Rebuild what you have, you have to go in that far to swap out the transmission anyway. As long as you case isn't bad you can darn near get everything you need.That way you know exactly what you have when you're done. Most of the gears and shafts are available from Lavoy or even Deere.

D.Light · Post by **D.Light** » Sun Jul 15, 2012 6:59 pm

Thanks everyone - Those were my thoughts as well. However, not knowing the prices of the parts I may need has me looking at all options.

I'll be in touch. If the rain holds off, I hope to have the 350 towed out of the rough and into a better spot to check out the problems. I'll keep you posted.

D.Light · Post by **D.Light** » Sun Aug 05, 2012 8:01 pm

I was able to get the transmission cover pulled off this weekend.

The bearings are shot on my output shaft.

As far as I can tell the gears inside the transmission look OK. I have not seen the pinion and ring gear yet.

Just curious if there is any way to pull the shaft out the rear of the machine... I really don't think so, but thought someone might have a trick up their sleeve.

Anyone have an idea of how many shop hours would be a reasonable estimate for pulling the finals and transmission?

LeonardL · Post by **LeonardL** » Sun Aug 05, 2012 8:58 pm

I have pulled these in 8 hours before. But I have also pulled probably some where around 50 of these over the years. For someone who may not have that much experience but is mechanically able, I would say 16 hours to pull the transmission and disassemble it for repairs. Depending on what you find you can expect at least that much in the rebuild. I would figure a minimum of 40 hours for a total job.
It isn't pretty I know! But there is really no other way to take it apart. I wish there was and I wish I had better news for you.
I have looked at every conceivable way to shorten the process. But I found that it is better to just get your tools out and go to work.
So... Good luck!

KenP · Post by **KenP** » Mon Aug 06, 2012 7:56 am

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D.Light · Post by **D.Light** » Mon Aug 06, 2012 9:56 am

KenP, I think the front bearing is bad, but the best I can tell, the shaft also has slack in the rear now. (After moving it around some in the case).

My question was really in regards to the possibility of removing the shaft with the reverser in the machine and without removing the tracks, etc.

I recall seeing what I thought was the transmission input shaft through an inspection plate, hydraulic filter case, or somewhere.

While looking at the manuals and the cover for the front bearing on the transmission output shaft; I thought there might be a remote possibility of removing the bearing cover and nut - then slipping in a couple of new bearings without 30 or 40 hours of heavy disassembly/reassembly.

PS - I'm a REAL Optimist

KenP · Post by **KenP** » Mon Aug 06, 2012 3:03 pm

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clutch and torsoinal isolator between engine/flywheel 350B

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