450 problems - gggrrrrrr!

[Mariner]

Hi all,

After using my machine through the winter to clear snow etc., I now find I have a few problems.

I thought I would throw these out to the forum and see if anyone would or could offer some directional advice. I have a repair manual on order which should arrive this coming week (thanks Lavoy, your contact was able to help me).

Two days ago I checked the engine oil and found that I had made about 1/2" on the dipstick. I loosened the engine drain plug and sure enough,out dribbled green coloured antifreeze. So it looks as if I have "O" rings going, pinholed liner(s) or head gasket going. Anyways, I drained the sump dry and refilled with fresh oil as I will have to move the machine to put it under the hoist in the shop.

Has anyone removed the four cylinder engine from a JD450 at all? How much work is it and are there any pitfalls I should be looking for, to avoid?
I have a manual on its way, so at this time I am putting out questions that someone might be able to help with.

I also have the right steering not functiong properly. I readjusted the linkage as per instruction (I have a couple of pages of stuff for this adjustment) and have only a little bit of operation at the end of the pull. The lever seems to be about the same when pulled, as the LHS one. If the linkage and pins are badly worn, would further adjustment be needed - I am a bit leery of adjusting too much as I don't want to damage anything. Your comments would be a great help to this "greenhorn"

Thanks in advance, for any comments and advice.

Mariner

[BKahler]

Mariner,

I don't know anything about the 450 crawlers, but are you sure you have to pull the engine to replace the liners, etc?

I would hope you could do it in frame which would be a lot less hassle.

Just a thought.

Brad

[digitup]

If you are juet replaceing the liners this is no big thing to do DONT pull the engine for just liners and piston replacement.And Dont run that crawler any more than is needed to get to the shop as the crank berrings could gum up and become a problem .The oil pump is on the front of the block so check the back rod berring for wear and gumming from the coolant at the same time as you do this. Good Luck .I will monitor.. You other guys know better a 350 also has wet sleaves as well as a 450 or 550 Why stick your heads in the sand when you hear 450 or 550 !Digitup.

[Mariner]

Hi everyone,

Thanks for the replies so far. As far as removing the engine - I haven't decided yet what I will be doing. I only want to do the job the one time.


Pro's for removal - working on an engine stand. better conditions and accessabilty. Access to clutch and mechanism at the same time.

Cons. More work involved and probably more expense - there are always things that you fix just because you are doing it out of frame, that might otherwise not be done.

In frame to me would limit accessability to the engine.

I am new to this so my comments could well be out in left field. I still haven't received the manual I ordered (probably be at least a week getting here), so the direction I'll go is still to be decided. I am a bit disappointed that I have to do this so soon, however, I will (hopefully) have a good engine after the work, for a long time.

Please keep up the comments - if nothing else it is making me look hard at what I have to do. I know there is a wealth of knowledge out there, so I would be grateful for any and all input.

Thanks in advance,

Mariner

[Lavoy]

An 855 Cummins has wet sleeves as well. That does not mean that someoe that knows that fact has ever worked on one and/or feels qualified to comment. If someone on here has something to add, they will add it. I am getting a little tired of some of this.
Lavoy

[RRemmers]

I too have a 450 with a loader,no blade or winch. Just got it about 3 days ago. Its a 1970 's model. Not in to bad of shape. I'm interested in were you found a service manual for your machine. I to have that problem with the steering, just don't know where to make the adjustment. Hope you have good luck with your machine.

[Lavoy]

The manuals are current from Deere, but getting pricey. There are usually some on E-bay, either reprints, or used ones, either way, quite a bit cheaper than Deere. If you prefer CD, Deere does have most of the manuals on CD now too, usually cheaper than printed.
Lavoy

[RRemmers]

Thanks for the info. Quick question. Does your machine have a canister on top of the engine up near the radiator with steel lines comming out of it. You take the top off it has a mesh strainer inside. Can you tell anything about it. Thanks.

[Uncle]

Your question was on pulling the engine, and if you are going to go through with this here is the way I do it.
Drop the belly pans, and the front radiator screen, take the bolts out of the filter mount and remove heavy front nose. Loosen the front pump off and tie it out of the way. Remove the trans cooler line off the bottom right of the radiator and plug the line. Drain and catch the coolant and remove the radiator. Pull fuel line off lift pump and wires off the senders, starter and injector pump.
Pull the floor boards and remove the two bellhousing bolts, support the engine and remove the four bellhousing bolts from the engine side.
Remove the engine with the started and front pump mount as a unit.
I have done several with only handtools and can have it out in about 2.5 hrs.
If you are going to pull it I hope this helps.

[motorhead460]

If it were me I would opt to pull the engine so I could inspect or replace the balancer shaft bearings if needed.

[teighs]

RRemmers:

That canister is the resevoir for the power steering.