82 350B crawler - 6 way

Jeffs · Post by **Jeffs** » Sat Dec 08, 2012 1:13 pm

First I like to say hello to everyone, I'm new here. I've been reading a lot of the topic's on the 350's and found a ton of priceless info. I really didn't want to start off on this board with a bunch of questions but it's not going to happen! I'm looking @ buying this 82 350B. My question is "Is it going to be worth it"? It's got a bad reverser (front and back clutches from what I've read on here) and steer clutches for sure. The price is 3500.00 for the machine. Undercarriage looks really good other than 2 rollers. Are parts pretty easy or common to get and I'm embarred to ask but what do you guy's mean when you say a straight 350, 450, 550 etc? Thanks in advance for any advice.
JeffS

jtrichard · Post by **jtrichard** » Sat Dec 08, 2012 1:22 pm

straight 350 is just that .... they made 350, 350b,350c,ect.did not make a 350A on 2010 and i believe 350 and others it says 2010C the C stood for crawler 2010 never had B,C,D ect.as for 3500 sound steep to me if it needs reverser and steering rest of machine would have to be great but others here with 350s could tell you more on price

Tigerhaze · Post by **Tigerhaze** » Sat Dec 08, 2012 2:01 pm

Hi Jeff-

As Richard stated, the letter is basically an update within a model- they are especially important for the 350s and 450s because the early ones had mechanical ("dry") steering clutches and the later ones had hydraulic ("wet") steering clutches. One the 450s, there is also changes from naturally aspirated to turbo engines, etc.

It is especially confusing because the serial numbers have letters inn them that may appear to be a model update but actually mean things like crawler versus tractor or dozer versus loader, so it is especially important to check the serial number rather than go by someone's word or the stickers on the machine to tell the model.

Having a bad reverser and bad steering clutches is a lot of labor and parts cost- if the rest of the machine is flawless and you are going to do all the labor yourself then maybe it is worth it (still going to put thousands in parts). However if you need to hire someone else to do the labor then you are probably better off looking for a machine that currently doesn't have any issues.

Jeffs · Post by **Jeffs** » Sun Dec 09, 2012 9:35 am

Thanks for your replies. I forgot to mention that I would be doing the labor myself. I guess it's still debatable whether it's worth it or not. I'm definitely not afraid of the amount of work to get er up and moving again but I am afraid of not being able to get parts. I had a 67 international 500 that was impossible to find parts for. After spending 6k total, I never did finish it and only got 3 grand out of it. I'm hoping I can get it a little cheaper now but I already talked the owner down and we both agreed on the price. I'd feel like a real scumbag to back out now but I also don't want to listen to the wife for years squawk about the cost of buyng it and fixing it. Thanks again! Jeffs

Post by **Lavoy** » Sun Dec 09, 2012 9:40 am

350 parts are for the most part readily available, steering clutches especially, I stock most of the clutch parts at any time. Reverser can be tougher, or if available, just is kind of pricey.
I agree the price seems kind of high, but that also depends on you. If you plan on owning the crawler for a while and have some work to do with it, it will more than average out over the years.
Lavoy

Scottyb · Post by **Scottyb** » Sun Dec 09, 2012 6:10 pm

Jeff, from what I have learned in my area is getting anything with a 6 way is, more difficult to find and will have a better value in the long term. Skidsteers have made loaders less desirable it seems. The good thing about that is, if you advertise for a fixer upper you will likely find a matching 350b loader as a supply of the needed parts for a fraction of what you will spend on them. I am surprised as how many crawlers are sitting around with one or two issues that caused them to be parked and, after sitting for a spell some of the owners are willing to let them go very reasonably. Be patient, run your ad and see who calls. People will think about selling the old crawler for years but never get around to running the ad. Make sure to get the one that has all the good parts you need or move on.

Scott

LeonardL · Post by **LeonardL** » Sun Dec 09, 2012 9:58 pm

If the former owner of this machine is billing it as a 1982 then I would seriously consider looking at what it truly is. Look for the serial number on the bottom front of the battery box... Left side, right above the running board. Or on the front seat support somewhere behind your left foot when sitting in the seat. Then post it here so we can perhaps help you know what the machine is. If it is for sure a 1982 then it won't be a "B" series machine. It will be a "C" which is better in a lot of ways. But if it is a "B" then it will be considerably older than the 1982 year you have been given. To give this much money for an older machine, you want to make sure what it is you are buying. Over the years these machines have been re-built or had parts changed or maybe just a simple coat of paint and new decals stuck on them and they get miss labeled. Find the numbers if you can and get back to us.

Tigerhaze · Post by **Tigerhaze** » Mon Dec 10, 2012 1:10 pm

Leonard is illustrationg the issue I mentioned in my above post- the serial number itself is more definitive than stickers or an owner's estimation of the date. of manufacture.

The other way to tell would be to look at the steering- prior to the "C" series the 350Bs had mechanical ("dry") steering clutches but could have hydraulic power assist. Starting with the "C" series they were truly hydraulic ("wet") steering clutches. If you search the archives there is a description of the hose arrangement for the steering clutches to be definitive.

LeonardL · Post by **LeonardL** » Mon Dec 10, 2012 5:57 pm

Hey Tigerhaze,
Sorry I didn't pick up on that...

I should have read the complete thread...

Anyway I was glad you brought the differences in the steering. That's the easiest way to tell for sure. I just saw that year date and was afraid he was being told something that it wasn't.

JWB Contracting · Post by **JWB Contracting** » Mon Dec 10, 2012 7:49 pm

If it was within 3 hours of me and it ran I would already own it. Just think what a outside mount Dozer owner would pay for the dozer and valve.

I'm also getting short of 350 parts as we keep fixing them instead of wrecking them.

It is alot of work to pull the reverser and rebuild the steering clutches, let alone the broken bolts and other issues that you uncover. But when your done, you will have a good crawler. My dad and I just put over 60 hours combined into a 350 with a 6 way dozer, started as a reverser rebearing and steering clutch rebuild but moved into a fixing a frame section, drilling the broken bolts in the final drives and reverser, build new pins for the dozer, replace springs on the isolator, fuel line, reseale 1 final drive, battery cable. It turned out very good, nice straight looking machine. Now, my question is what is a fine crawler tractor like this be worth?

I meet a lot of potential crawler buyers and most want to buy something cheap. My response is always you get what you pay for. Best to be educated on the specific model before you buy and know what your in store for repairs. We fix them up as a hobby and enjoy doing so, but if you hired a mechanic the cost to repair would be astronomical.

If the undercarriage is good on this crawler and it runs good, it is probably worth fixing. If it needs undercarriage, it may cost to much to replace.

Tigerhaze · Post by **Tigerhaze** » Tue Dec 11, 2012 3:01 pm

LeonardL wrote:Hey Tigerhaze,
Sorry I didn't pick up on that... I should have read the complete thread... Anyway I was glad you brought the differences in the steering. That's the easiest way to tell for sure. I just saw that year date and was afraid he was being told something that it wasn't.

Hey Leonard it is all good- we respect the experience you bring to the table so any advice you have on the 350s is great to post.

Jeffs · Post by **Jeffs** » Sat Dec 15, 2012 6:09 pm

Thanks guy's for replying!
I just got the "type" 350BE and ser.# 208636T which in the archives says it's a 74?? That stinks!!! I ran it today and it moves just fine but I still think the reversers screwed. Directly below the air cleaner you can hear a slight clanking. It's not a rod or main bearing knock. Unfortunately, I've heard my share of those and know them all to well. I don't know for sure but what I've read on here, sounds like a bearing in the back of the reverser's shot and if i'm changing a bearing, mind as well change the disc's. The machine doesn't steer to well but we knew that it needs adjusting or clutches. Which reminds me, I saw and felt what looked like small hydraulic line under the left floor board by the clutch pedal. Didn't bother checking the other side. Started to get dark. I guess the machine starts to slip after it gets hot so.....
I might try changing the fluid but I highly doubt it will take care of it. Thanks again for all your help! Jeffs Send a picture as soon as I figure that one out!

Scottyb · Post by **Scottyb** » Sat Dec 15, 2012 11:14 pm

Jeffs your knocking could be the Isolator. It attaches to the flywheel on the B,s and can rattle and clank in the bell housing. No clutch on the B's. When you push on the left pedal it just works the reverser to netural. Do a search on the Isolator.
Scott

Scottyb · Post by **Scottyb** » Sat Dec 15, 2012 11:16 pm

Jeffs, I forgot to ask, did you buy the B or are you still deciding?

Jeffs · Post by **Jeffs** » Sun Dec 16, 2012 7:43 am

Thanks ScottyB,
I did put cash down. I know it probably wasn't to smart but I never claimed to be. I figure once it's done I'll know what's in it and a little bit more secure when using it. I checked into the isolator. Wow, awsome!

That alone make me want to walk away but if i know me, i won't! Using the heavier clutch is a neat idea! I'll probably do that. I really need to find out for sure what I even have. Is it a "B" is it a "C" is it both? Dry clutches wet clutches. 82? 74? Stuff gets confusing with these critters. Still way better than the international 500 i had. Parts are easier to find thats for sure. Speaking of which, ebay has clutch isolator springs for sale right now. I think the pack was like 10 bucks. Well thanks again! JeffS

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82 350B crawler - 6 way

82 350B crawler - 6 way

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