isolator springs ruined my day

rockslayer16 · Post by **rockslayer16** » Tue Feb 05, 2013 3:30 pm

well after rebuilding my engine everything was good, then two days later two isolator springs decided they wanted to break and cause me to pull the engine back out.

i did a lot of research and what i found is most recommend switching out to the later 350d style or the earlier 1010 style "clutch", well for 1-2k$ thats far out of my budget. i came across a thread here about converting it yourself using a truck plate, my question is could i drill and tap my flywheel for holes to bolt this to my flywheel doing away the springs/isolator?

http://www.madisontractor.com/at316546- ... 54673.html

or should i just order some new springs and hope it doesnt happen again?

also i read on here that the spring retainer/clip should be facing outward on the flywheel, my manual shows them facing towards the closed side of the loop on the spring so thats how i put them back on, and thats how they were originally. if i just order new springs should i have the retaining clips facing outwards like i read on here or do it how the manual shows?

LeonardL · Post by **LeonardL** » Tue Feb 05, 2013 4:32 pm

To answer your first question about conversions... If you can find the "D" series flywheel and isolator, this is your best fix. You can do what you want but I would stay with what Deere has designed. I personally do not have any experience with these other conversions. They may work great and I hope they do for the guys that have used them. Yes... the springs are bothersome and noisy, but I know of machines that are forty years old and still on their first set of springs. As for how to face the retainers, you need to install them like the book shows. They are shaped sort of like a "J" and you want them to look like an upside down "J" on the flywheel. Make sense?? Just try to make them as square to flywheel as possible. You will need to use "Locktite" on the threads of the bolts. I use the "Blue" Locktite as it will hold but still allow you to remove the bolts if necessary without heating them first. You can use either one though. Red or Blue.
Sorry you had issues... I have, as they say, been there and done that! Twice to be exact! Both times were with new springs as well! Hope you get it going soon as break downs are never fun.

Post by **Lavoy** » Tue Feb 05, 2013 6:15 pm

I have always wanted to put together a conversion kit to put the later flywheel and isolator into the earlier crawlers. I have all of the leg work done for the isolator itself, but getting flywheels made is beyond me. Not sure how many used ones are out there, but doubt it is as many as would be needed. The other issue is demand, just not sure how many people would even want one.
Lavoy

rockslayer16 · Post by **rockslayer16** » Tue Feb 05, 2013 7:17 pm

thanks for the replies guys i appreciate

is this the proper way to put the retainer clips on?

am i correct in thinking this "Disc, Flywheel Driven" http://www.madisontractor.com/at316546- ... 54673.html is what the older 1010's have bolted to the flywheel instead of the "isolator" that the springs attach to which i have and what is in the picture above?

Post by **Lavoy** » Tue Feb 05, 2013 7:27 pm

That is correct.
Lavoy

LeonardL · Post by **LeonardL** » Tue Feb 05, 2013 8:44 pm

Awesome picture!! Yes this is the correct installation for the spring style isolator.

The spring plate is all new to me... well I should say it was new to me sense joining this forum about a year ago.

I have a question for Lavoy????? This spring plate isolator that is shown in the link he has given us? Is this the style of isolator that the older machines use? And... How well do they stand up compared to the Spring style that most 350s have? Just curious...

jtrichard · Post by **jtrichard** » Tue Feb 05, 2013 9:00 pm

just curious what is the dimension from the center of the flywheel to the outer bolt center? and about how deep and the diameter of the recess in the flywheel

rockslayer16 · Post by **rockslayer16** » Tue Feb 05, 2013 9:07 pm

jtrichard wrote:just curious what is the dimension from the center of the flywheel to the outer bolt center? and about how deep and the diameter of the recess in the flywheel

ive been wondering about the flywheel dimensions since i got home and found the older style driven disk set up, unfortunately i dont think the center hole/bore on my flywheel has a large enough diameter to allow the hub of the driven disk to sit in. i will get some measurements tomorrow and report back for you. looks like im most likely going to have to just order some new springs and retainers.

jtrichard · Post by **jtrichard** » Tue Feb 05, 2013 9:21 pm

the one side of the 1010 disc should not stick out very far.... there is a clutch shop i deal with,next time i see them i will have them look up your pic and see what they can come up with...there has to be a better way then the Rube Goldberg that JD used (it appears a short time before they said oops)

rockslayer16 · Post by **rockslayer16** » Tue Feb 05, 2013 10:46 pm

well now youve got me hoping again, i did some research to try to find out what the back side of the 1010 driven disk looks like and came up with this thread, which also happens to mention your name. http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... f987c2976e

also i cant take credit for the picture of the isolator/flywheel above, i found it on this forum searching. perhaps i should take the 200$ gamble and see if i can get it to mount to my flywheel.

jtrichard · Post by **jtrichard** » Wed Feb 06, 2013 12:00 am

looks like you would have to machine recess in the flywheel to make space for the rivets (for lack of a better term)on the back of the plate if the wheel will allow

i forgot he sent me pics of the plate you also could space it back .250" maybe i don't know what the diameters are of the bolt circle in the plate or the flywheel

Post by **Lavoy** » Wed Feb 06, 2013 8:19 am

It seems like the earlier style was a longer life setup, definitely less mass and components. The last style torsional isolator is likely the best, but pretty much no way to just machine the flywheel to accept it, you would need a different flywheel.
I don't know if the splines are the same between 1010 and 350. The othe issue might be torque. 1010's were not known for torque, the 350 is.
Lavoy

rockslayer16 · Post by **rockslayer16** » Wed Feb 06, 2013 5:43 pm

anyone know any special tricks to get the dowel pins out of the flywheel? ive tried before on numerous parts and can never get them out properly, not trying to save the dowel pins but i do want to save the holes they go in so i can put some new ones in if i cant get the 1010 plate to work and have to go back to using the springs and isolator.

rockslayer16 · Post by **rockslayer16** » Wed Feb 06, 2013 7:06 pm

i got the flywheel dimensions for you richard

center bore is 6" in diameter
center bore is 1-3/4" deep
the 5 hole pattern causes me not to be able to measure straight across but from one hole skipping one to the next is 12"

would you happen to have a picture of the 1010 flywheel?

i ended up welding nuts to the dowel pins and using a ratchet to spin them and they all came out pretty easy.

KenP · Post by **KenP** » Thu Feb 07, 2013 5:18 am

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isolator springs ruined my day

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