1996 455G

tje · Post by **tje** » Mon Mar 25, 2013 6:38 pm

I'm new to this forum and have never owned a track loader. I have a farm and am considering purchasing a 455G and wondered if there are any specific concerns with this machine? I was originally looking at older 450's and some other similar HP models and found those older models have quite a bit of potential service and maintenance with the steering. Do the mid 90's model 455G's have any specific weaknesses or things I should be looking out for when I go look at them?

Mainly I will be clearing land with 20-30 Yr overgrowth and regrading land. The overall project is about 20 acres and expect it will be a weekend thing over the next 6mo to a year and then probably resell it and maintanin what I accomplish with my farm tractor.

Thanks,

digitup2 · Post by **digitup2** » Tue Mar 26, 2013 9:45 am

I have had several 450G's and four 550G's as well as a 650G and these machines never went back to the dealer till they were traded back in these are great units and are tough as nails a loader is no different and as far as I an concerned Deere built these crawlers too good it should be a good machine just remember the machine you buy is only as good as the tracks so make sure the tracks are in good condition .Digitup.

tje · Post by **tje** » Tue Mar 26, 2013 3:02 pm

Thanks for the reply. I searched quite a bit and don't seem to find anything bad written about these machines and no extensive forum entries with people looking to fix inherent problems.

LeonardL · Post by **LeonardL** » Wed Mar 27, 2013 10:00 am

I agree with Digitup on these "G" series 450 through the 650s. We had several of each in both the Loaders and Dozers and we had absolutely no issues with them. I like them even over the new Hydra-stat machines. The Hs and Js... And I know there will be guys out there that would slap me for that but it's the way I feel. The only work I ever did on these G series machines was routine track maintenance and overall machine maintenance. I did two over hauls on engines but both had well over 10,000 hours on them. And they were still running they were just using oil so we overhauled them. Great machines!!

tje · Post by **tje** » Fri Mar 29, 2013 1:40 pm

I expect it depends on the use and upkeep...but is 6000 hours typical for a 1996 machine? is this a point where any major maintenance or service work can be expected?

Thanks,

tje · Post by **tje** » Mon Apr 01, 2013 5:13 pm

The big day finally came after more research than I care to admit to.

I Bought the 1996 455G which is in excellent condition and will arrive on the farm this Saturday.

The decision came down to choosing between the tractor being the hobby or clearing the land being the hobby and I just couldn't get comfortable with the down time risk of older equipment, dry steering clutches etc etc.

I appreciate the advice provided and information I found perusing this website. I'm off to find manuals.

Thanks,

jhubert · Post by **jhubert** » Fri Apr 05, 2013 7:21 am

Welcome aboard. I cant give you any advice or info other than the fact that mine has been a great machine so far. Did a full undercarriage myself this winter and Im thinking a hydraulic pump rebuild/reseal is in my future. Once you see how useful it is you probably will just keep it. Ive gone from clearing fencerow to road grading/building and on down to mobile scaffolding (bucket up and plank across to canopy clamped in place) for working on siding/roofing/trim work. Im in the process of building a pin on root/brush rake with hyd clamp right now. Parts should be getting water jetted next week

tje · Post by **tje** » Sat Apr 06, 2013 7:54 pm

I thought that was my idea:) I have a Kubota w/ loader and have been using it for scaffold on the farm for the past few years. I strap a 20 walkboard across the bucket and use it for painting, siding etc.

The seller delivered the 455 last night and I spent 8 hours today clearing. He even took it to the JD dealer and had a 1000 hr servicing performed and filled it up for me so I couldn't be happier. Also included extra filters and a plastic ROPS cover which I wasn't expecting.

I'm doubting this thing will ever leave the farm.

I did have a question if anyone can answer: I bought the owners manual and read it last night since before today I have a total of 15 minutes experience on these things over my lifetime. Do you adjust your tracks a as much as daily or a couple times a day? Everything else seemed to make sense but I expected track adjustments alot less frequent. I haven't figured out how to do it yet but it doesn't seem too tough based on the directions.

Thanks,

Tigerhaze · Post by **Tigerhaze** » Mon Apr 08, 2013 10:35 am

tje wrote: Do you adjust your tracks a as much as daily or a couple times a day? Everything else seemed to make sense but I expected track adjustments alot less frequent. I haven't figured out how to do it yet but it doesn't seem too tough based on the directions.

I can't speak for a 455G, but generally you need to adjust whenever there is too much slack and it is always good to check whenever you get off the machine for a break, refueling, etc. I know I have to adjust my 2010 track tensioners every couple of hours of continuous use, but I also have pretty worn undercarriage.

If the 455G uses a hydraulic tensioner similar to earlier 450 machines, then there will be a zerk fitting that is used to pump grease into the tensioner and tighten the track to spec. If it is there, it is likely under a cover to keep dirt out. However I don't know the 455G so someone should confirm.

jhubert · Post by **jhubert** » Mon Apr 08, 2013 6:20 pm

I adjust mine when they appear to need it. Being a weekend warrior machine it seems I'm always checking something but I don't really keep track of hours. Some years the machine might see 50 hours and others, 200 or more. The adjusters are right behind the idler (front wheel) and they are grease fittings as tiger mentioned. There's a large nut next to them you crack loose to add slack for say an undercarriage r&r. Just loosen them and jump up and down on top of the tracks between the top roller and idler and the grease will come shooting out as you start to sink. Where you located?

digitup2 · Post by **digitup2** » Mon Apr 08, 2013 7:14 pm

Tracks should be adjusted when ever they get slack and the best way is to straight edge from top idler to front idler there should be 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch droop for good track life .You need to watch when you change soil type's you will also notice slacking or tightening of tracks if it is fine sand or heavy clay or fine gravel or running in the snow on a cold or warm day temperature is a big factor as well a good dozer operator is always ready to to make adjustments .So a 4 foot straight edge is a handy thing for a rookie to carry or even some one that is trying to get the most track life it only takes a moment .Digitup.

tje · Post by **tje** » Wed Apr 10, 2013 7:50 am

The manual says 2" (+- .25) sag between the sprocket and the center carrier roller which seems to be holding true after the first 10 hours of operation.

I'm in central Georgia with mostly red clay and white Kaolin clay. From the 1860's through 1960 some of the property was mined to produce clay pipe, bricks and pottery so I'll have to clean that up next year. The plan is to clear the growth first and then regrade after I see what I got.

I assume learning how much grease reduces how much sag will be a trial and error until I get used to it.

Thanks for the advice.

jhubert · Post by **jhubert** » Wed Apr 10, 2013 11:23 am

Central Ga huh? I spent many summers there. Watch out for those fire ants! Warner Robbins area

Tigerhaze · Post by **Tigerhaze** » Wed Apr 10, 2013 1:24 pm

tje wrote: I assume learning how much grease reduces how much sag will be a trial and error until I get used to it.

It would suspect that it varies by model as the adjusters may be larger on your machine than mine. However each pump of a standard grease gun for my 2010 probably tightens the track sag by a 1/4" or so. Usually a half dozen or so pump strokes will get me back into spec, as long as I haven't been neglecting it.

tje · Post by **tje** » Thu Apr 11, 2013 11:47 am

Thanks Tiger. Yep, I figured the first time I'd squeeze it a few times, move it around and see what affect it has then will get the right squeezes per .25 ratio and the rest will be routine maintenance.

I'm not too far from WR. Relocated here about 5 years ago and went to work on the base the first 2 years. Now am hanging around the farm between traveling projects. In my spare time I pour ant killer on ant hills, they move and I follow them around and do it again. Odd place where you can't go out in the lawn and lay around or throw a blanket out for a picnic. Well, I guess you can if you don't mind risking personal comfort.

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