Removable traction

[jhubert]

First off I love my loader pads because they get enough traction to dig with the bucket but are rather gentle on the hay/grass if you plan your turns ahead of time. But I'd like to have some studs or something removable for some steep side hill clearing. I've heard of welding rebar on to build up the grouser but I want to go back to normal when done without cutting/grinding. I noticed that my two bar pads have 4 holes each for chain bolts and two holes that are unused. Would bolting a stud through these holes wrinkle the pad up when turning? I'm thinking of maybe a 1/2-13 coupling nut with a hex bolt through it from the inside out.

[Scottyb]

On my 350b loader.....5/8 bolts work great. I had two on every 3rd pad with a nut on each side of the pad. With that setup on both tracks, at least three sets of bolts were in contact with the ground at all times. Be careful to always gear low for some track slip when pulling or your clutches will get hurt.
Also, if you have to much bolt sticking out on the inside of the pad they will rub on the rock guards and make getting them off really tough. Just enough to fill the inside nut is good. I used this help for logging but crossing frozen ponds and roads was very rough. In the bush it was great.
I used 2 1/4 inch 5/8 hardened bolts but would go a little shorter next time perhaps 2 inch or 1 3/4
Scott


[IMG]http://i1058.photobucket.com/albums/t40 ... -00314.jpg[/IMG

[jhubert]

Now thats awesome. Pic and everything! I would like to post a pic of mine when I figure it out. Photobucket wasnt cooperating last night thats for sure.

[jhubert]

This is my current setup (providing pic works) and I'd like everyone's input. The existing holes are not even close to the bar that supports the weight of the machine. Is using those holes still ok?

[Al Swearengen]

This is my current setup (providing pic works) and I'd like everyone's input. The existing holes are not even close to the bar that supports the weight of the machine. Is using those holes still ok?

Good question. I think it would be fine is SOFT material. Those pads are tough. I bent one before when I was 'reducing' material left from a burned down shop building.
A tire iron that was left in the rubble got between the pads and got pinched. Just for fun, I tried to straighten the bent pad. A definite NO GO!

[Paul Buhler]

I'd bet that bolts like Scotty recommended put in every other pad would work in PA. You're trying to get something that punches into the frost (frozen ground) for grip, but still allows the machine to turn without generating too much torque in the track system when turning.
I'd use shorter bolts for strength and reduced wear, and less tearing of the ground - I hate raking up the lawn after crossing it.
You can make your caulks more or less aggressive as you see fit for your needs. Did you ever see the spikes they put on motocross bikes that race on ice?
http://www.ncomotorsport.se/litenwebinnova21.jpg

[KenP]

deleted