JD 455G Undercarriage

[tje]

Purchased a 96 455G a few weeks ago and had figured I would do my farm project over the next year or so and then sell it. Well, after about 32 hours on it I can see the chances are slim to none this is leaving the farm.

Anyway, I got a great price and knew the tracks were fairly worn which will work fine for the project. I am trying to figure out what new tracks would cost to plan for next year. Can someone provide a link or company that provides aftermarket tracks for this model? Haven't had much luck searching for a supplier with costs.

I know about the proper track adjustments but wondered if when tracks get older that it may be better to keep them a little tighter so they don't ride so high on the sprocket teeth?

Lastly, when you change the tracks do you generally change the sprockets? anything else adviseable when you do a track change?

Thanks

[jhubert]

I did mine this past winter and I ran up about 3k in parts. I used V-tracks rollers, front idler, and sprockets. Although the rollers and front idler all seem up to factory fit & finish standards the sprocket is just a cast pc of junk in my book. If I had to do it again Id buy JD sprockets and V-tracks rollers and idlers. My main concern is that the sprocket runs out. Id guess maybe up to 3/4" total side to side movement when I put it in first gear after installing them to see how true they ran. That may be normal but I think its shoddy. The JD sprockets were around 260$/pc and the V's were 115$/pc. I also did new pin and bushing groups so that gives you a rough idea what all 3k got me. Its alot of work but it actually rides like a cadillac now that my rollers dont have an inch of vertical slop. I had no idea what I was getting into but once you do one you see how each part relies on the next to perform correctly. When your sprockets get to a knife edge its time for replacement seemed to be the general consensus from my pals that do this for a living.

[tje]

Yea, I think this will be a Fall/Winter project and the cost seems inline with the prices I received for parts. Thanks for the sprocket advice.

My track pads and tensioners are good so I expect I will change the track chain, rollers and sprocket. Is it possible to get the outer surface of the idler turned? I check the demension and it seems borderline at about 7/8"=1"?

Was wondering how you lifted the machine? are there jack points to lift and block it off the tracks safely? I expect I need to lift the machine so I can remove the tracks, then remove and install the old track pads on the new chain, replace the rollers, sprockets and then reinstall the track. I'm hunting around for someone to do the work for me but so far the JD dealer and other big boys aren't even close to my budget.

For the time being it is fine and am clearing all the easily accessible land...next Spring I need to head off to the isolated areas of the property which border thousands of acres of timber land without service truck access so the new undercarriage is a must before that. Other than the undercarriage the machine is in excellent condition.

[jhubert]

My front idlers were at 1/2 or worse and the new bushings were going to ride on the center rib of idler rather than the link bottom riding on the shelf. I work in a machine shop and would've done that myself but after turning it I still wouldnt have been able to shim the idler down far enough to maintain the tolerance in height from roller bottom to idler bottom. JD calls for "less than .3 inches" so I just bought new. If that isnt clear...you hold a straight edge across the load bearing area of the rollers and let it stick out towards the front of the machine and your idler shelf should sit level or up to 5/16 higher. The higher it sits the easier it is to turn the machine but the more it rocks forward when you scoop up material in the bucket. I would think with a loaded bucket you would want the weight centered and distributed evenly over the 5 rollers...

[jtrichard]

if you have any big track shops around you they should be able to weld it up for less than a new one something to look into

[tje]

I think I have the chain, sprocket and roller thing figured out where they all will soon need to be replaced but am confused about the idlers and am trying to stick to a budget:

I understood the idler tolerance is the distance between the low surface on the idler and the high surface. Apparently the low surface is what the chain rides on and it increases the spread between the two as it wears down and the chain pins would ride on the high surface of the idler when it is worn out? Since I have never owned one of these I figured the outer surface could be turned to decrease the variance but based on jtrichard's comment are you saying to build up the surface the chain runs on to decrease the variance between the 2 surfaces?

I think I got a price of somewhere around $400 per idler...does that sound right? I'm maxed out on the cost to replace the other parts and am having a tough time considering replacement of the idlers so was trying to look into other options.

Thanks, for all the advice,
Tom

[jtrichard]

$400 for weld up? i would guess that is fair ... i would see what new ones are ......yes its the difference between the high and low (center and sides) the center is only a guide the chains only ride on the sides.... if you go on YouTube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_2N7ilccuZs

[jhubert]

I bought v-tracks front idlers at just <800 a pc. But thats a true bolt on. No swapping bearings or anything.

Just FYI I think my total track cost was around 1500 bucks. I know the labor was 400/side so the pin bushing groups must have been 350/side.

To lift the machine I backed up on a 6x6 and then wedged some firewood rounds tightly under the counterweight. Then put the bucket down until the front was high enough the 6x6 was loose and then wedged more firewood rounds under the nose of it. Have fun taking those skirts off if you do replace the rollers

I rotated the track till the master link was just behind the top quadrant of the front idler. Split it there and then use the inching pedal to slowly run the top section off the back of the sprocket. Worked like a charm

[tje]

That is an interesting video and surely specialized machinery. I never would have expected it to be done that way since it appears the welded surface would not be smooth and the track chain would run rough around it. I assume they grind it down after welding? I actually would have thought they turned the center surface.

I did get the same costs for chains and rollers. I found a guy to change out my pads to the new chains, replace the rollers and sprockets for a total of about $4600 which is about all I have to put in it. My idlers are smooth but the step down is about 7/8" which I know is too much. So what would happen if I leave the idlers as is and do the other work?

[jhubert]

I may have paid 800 for the set now that I think about it.
1400 for all track pcs and labor
1000 for 10 rollers
800 for front idlers
puts it at 3200 and thats what I spent so it must be right.

I was measuring the lip height on my front idlers but center rib to shelf height sounds more like the desired measurement. I know I took one look after returning from the track shop and said "well that aint gonna work" lol. The new front idlers I got are a solid cast pc, not dished in the center and they are HEAVY. It took everything I had to tilt them up onto the diameter to roll them up a ramp onto a stack of blocks approximately the right height and into the yoke. I treated myself to a few after that was over....

[tje]

I got a price on new idlers and it is inline with what you paid. Also I called the guy who will probably perform the work and he has that welding machine that builds up the idler wear surface so next week I will get the price for going that route. I had no intention of replacing the undercarriage so soon but the older I get the more I like the idea of doing things today rather than push it off until things break.

I do appreciate all the advice and look forward to the hundreds of hours ahead running the equipment and returning this overgrown property back to shaded pastures and rolling hills I can actually see accross and walk through.

I'm finishing up drawings now to build a new garage to house it and my other toys. That part I have 30+ years experience doing