JD 450 track slipping
JD 450 track slipping
Picked up a Deere 450, late 70's, believe its a "b" model, but not 100%. I've been running it a few weeks now on a home site project.. I haven't really done much work with it so far except pull logs around. Yesterday I started pushing some dirt, and popping a few small stumps (6" or less). The right hand track seems to be slipping. When under a heavy load, it "groans" a bit and the right track stops turning. Now obviously this seems to be a clutch problem of sorts. The previous owner claims that both steering clutches were done within the last 2 years. It was a homeowner machine, so it didn't see much use. It has 2800 hours, and is in very nice shape besides that. I'm pretty mechanically inclined, and it just really seems like an "adjustment" type of problem.. Anybody have any ideas? If it's something out of adjustment, where would that be located?
Thanks,
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Thanks,
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John Deere 450, 410C, and Ford 1710
I pulled the access cover last night, and saw 2 "adjustment" nuts. Well one was 2 nuts on a through bolt, which is farthur back. And the other is a bolt with a lock nut, which is farthur forward. Everything looked dry and clean. The through bolt with the 2 nuts was loose, so I'm guessing it loosened up and thats what started my track slipping. I'm not sure how to adjust those? I turned the through bolt one way and then started the machien in an attempt to move it. I pulled in the opposite steering lever to make only the problem track spin, and it slipped immediately. I then adjusted it out a ways in the opposite direction, and did the same test. The problem track engaged much better. I tried to push a small stump over, and the track did start to slip, but had more then before. So that said, given the small amount of adjustment I made, it made a difference, which leads me to believe that its def just out of adjustment. Does this sound right? I ordered a service manual, but is there any easy way to make those adjustments?
John Deere 450, 410C, and Ford 1710
"get a manual, follow it to the letter" .. yeah, great advice, I have one on order , I don't think I need to post in a forum to come up with that. Nothing has been changed from where it was when I started, I simply was able to tighten the lock nuts so it doesn't go furthur out of adjustment. I DID NOT turn a bunch of screws carelessly and go out and cut 2 acres of field with it. Simply investigating before getting the manual so I can see what I'm in for, and updating my post in case anybody has any helpful knowledge other then just, read the book... So your done trying to help me, calm down...
John Deere 450, 410C, and Ford 1710
It's tough to see much inside, as the access plates are pretty small. There is a ton of adjustment capability, but I didn't want to move things too far before getting the manual, so I didn't experiment. The previous owner claims that both were done recently, and it hasn't been used much, that's what is curious to me.
John Deere 450, 410C, and Ford 1710
I've done brake adjustments on my 350B many times, 450 may be the same, very easy to do, but instructions are extremely important. I used my manual, easy job. But until you get your manual, search this site for a post by Leonard L. This guy knows his stuff, his profile will tell you why, anyway he posted the way he does it, same as in the manual, but easier to understand in my opinion.
MF40, MF30,350B
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- 2010 crawler
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Adjustments
It sounds to me like your steering clutch is slipping. The only adjustable item to correct this is the free play on the clutch fingers.
The other adjustments affect the timing between clutching and braking and the tightness of the brake band. Fairly simple system once you've pulled them apart a few times. I learned by doing and not by looking in the book. We always had the books if needed.
My guess is you need to rebuild your clutch, at least you don't have to pull the final drive on a 450 to do so.
The other adjustments affect the timing between clutching and braking and the tightness of the brake band. Fairly simple system once you've pulled them apart a few times. I learned by doing and not by looking in the book. We always had the books if needed.
My guess is you need to rebuild your clutch, at least you don't have to pull the final drive on a 450 to do so.
Jason Benesch
John Deere 420, 430, 440 & 350C With 3 Point Hitch
John Deere 400G With Winch
John Deere 2010 Crawler Dozer
John Deere 420, 430, 435 & 440 Wheel Tractors
John Deere 420, 430, 440 & 350C With 3 Point Hitch
John Deere 400G With Winch
John Deere 2010 Crawler Dozer
John Deere 420, 430, 435 & 440 Wheel Tractors
As Jason said, your steering clutch may be slipping regardless of adjustment. If the previous owner actually replaced the clutch fiber discs and steels (did he show you receipts?), it may be that he put them in the wrong sequence or did not put enough in. That is a common installation problem if he didn't follow directions and can cause slippage. You would have to pull the clutch to verify that. Also as Jason said, you really need to use the clutch gauge to adjust the pressure plate fingers before installing- again the previous owner may not have done that.
Also, when you opened the inspection plate, did you see any oil, water, rust, etc.? The previous owner replacing the steering clutch wouldn't do a lot of good if the fiber discs became recontaminated with oil or the steels re-rusted, which can happen in a cold, humid climate. Fixing a moisture issue is easier than the oil issue, as then you may have to pull the final drive as well to replace a bad seal.
Finally, there are a number of threads on this site about poor quality clutch fiber discs sold on sites like Epay- it is possible he replaced the discs according to instructions but that poor quality discs disintegrated. Lavoy can tell you more about that and here is his post on that:
http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... lack+discs
Also, when you opened the inspection plate, did you see any oil, water, rust, etc.? The previous owner replacing the steering clutch wouldn't do a lot of good if the fiber discs became recontaminated with oil or the steels re-rusted, which can happen in a cold, humid climate. Fixing a moisture issue is easier than the oil issue, as then you may have to pull the final drive as well to replace a bad seal.
Finally, there are a number of threads on this site about poor quality clutch fiber discs sold on sites like Epay- it is possible he replaced the discs according to instructions but that poor quality discs disintegrated. Lavoy can tell you more about that and here is his post on that:
http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... lack+discs
(1) JD Straight 450 crawler dozer with manual outside blade; (2) JD 2010 diesel crawler loaders; (1) JD 2010 diesel dozer with hydraulic 6-way blade; (2) Model 50 backhoe attachments, misc. other construction equipment
So I got my service manual today and spent a few hours going through it. I realize, that my tracks are WAAYYYYYY too tight. Could it be possible that my tracks are so tight it is causing slippage when under a load? I mean, the load and then the compounded pressure of the tracks being so tight?
John Deere 450, 410C, and Ford 1710
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