450C Battery cables/wiring.

[kedorland]

To All:

We have two 450C crawlers. One slightly newer, and closer to being factory stock than the other.

Was operating the newer one the other day and in mid-load, and RPMs) while easing a tree over...the machine just shut off. No noise..just shut off as fast a person drops a lightswitch.

To hot to handle..so hopped on the other machine to finish out the day. Visited with neighbors about the "problem"...and the wisest being..." get on it and try to start it". Which it did start.

I operated the newer (problem) machine for 1/2 day....some anti-freeze started to show up on the ground...so I shut it off.

Now the starter won't turn and/or engage. Assumming it is, or may be, a key switch, contact issue....I started to check voltage at the batteries and work my way towards the instrument cluster.

In doing so.....I found the battery leads, from the battery, on the problem machine (Wired 12VDC parrallel), however found the master switch is switching the negative leads rather than the positive.

Instantly went and compared it to the other machine and it is wired to switch the postive.

Need some wisdom...

Want to thank you all in advance.

Kevin From Iowa

[Unclebeef]

Hey Kevin,
Just the other day I had nearly the same exact thing happen on my jd350b. I don't know if a 450 is the same, but its worth a look. First it sounds llike an electricial problem if it shut off that fast--with no noises or sputtering. I checked wiring and found that as soon as the key was turned on the circuit breaker mounted behind the instrument cluster would open--meaning there was a short to ground. I inspected and found a rubbed wire going to the neutral safety switch on the transmission. this circuit also feeds the 12 volts to the fuel cut off solenoid. i repaired the wire and rerouted so rubbing wouldn't happen again. turned the key on--the circuit breaker stayed closed and it fired up. as far as the switch on the ground side goes, normally they break the hot side, so if for example someone was working on the machine a dropped a wrench against a hot terminal post if wouldn't fry anything. the way its wired now that could still happen, although both ways will keep the battery safe from parasitic draw. hope this helps, good luck.
Dave.

[77 Ford]

While breaking the ground is less common, from a functional stand point it makes no difference. Once the ground is open the frame is no longer a ground and therefore if you touched a hot lug to the frame it would not do anything.

I agree with the idea you have an electrical problem, I'd really look that fuel solenoid wiring over with a fine tooth comb.

[Scottyb]

I has a similar experience on my 350b. After much searching I discovered that the problem was at the firewall. on my 350b there is connections on the dash side and they just needed cleaning up. Your problem might be elsewhere but if all looks to be in order as mine did, check at the firewall.

[kedorland]

To date:...Monday I called the local parts shop, via cell phone, and ordered the two oil filters and two air filters needed to preform basic service. Pulled the Positive cable from the Batt to starter routing. The upper end of the cable had had the factory lug removed and a redneck ?, gerry rigged ?, (take your pick) lead repair cable end added. Is the primary source of the elec. problem.

Still need to find the radiator anti-freeze issue.......rigging up to pull the hard nose....and counting cable lengths to rewire the batteries in the battery box.

Putter on it for an hour or two then hop on the other machine to finish out the day.

Am finding it interesting.

Kevin D.