JD 350B will not move help please

[jack61_23]

I just bought a 350b for $1000. I brought it home put a battery in it and it fired right up. Went to take it for a ride and it won't move. It will grind a little going in every gear Tracks will tighten up when put in gear but will not move. Nor will it move with the reverser in either direction. The hydraulics work great in the loader. I changed trans filter and fluid still no change. Any help wold be great!! This my first loader so bear with me. Where to get parts at?

[Lavoy]

Might be low pressure in reverser, could be steering clutches slipping, but doubt it. I sell parts, what are you looking for?
Lavoy

[jack61_23]

Trying figure out what is wrong And what parts I all need and if it is worth fixin

[Lavoy]

Wild guess, but make sure the clutch pedal is coming all the way up and not hanging up on any crud.
Lavoy

[cdunn]

I have to say it: The first step you, me or anyone needs to do in this situation is to get a shop manual for your particular crawler. You can get information that will help you help yourself and also help you understand infomation and help offered from this web site. They are relatively expensive, but I promise you its the best money you"ll ever spend on the machine. I think Lavoy sells them or JD web site has them for download for a fee.

[jack61_23]

I have taken the floor board out and cleaned all the crud out from around the cluth linkage and lever and also from around the reverser linkage. I also tried taking the reverser linkage loose manually moving the lever so that rules out adjustment on the foot clutch and reverser. It kind of acts like the clutch is not releasing because you can put it in gear with ease with the clutch pedal released or depressed with the same result little short grind and it drops right in to any gear I put it in and the tracks tighten up. Is there a valve that operates the clutch assume that I can check. There are no abnormal sounds or smells coming from the machine. The fluids that I changed looked to be clean. The filter was old but I didn't see any trash, just little grease on the Bottom side of the filter. The machine doesn't look like it has been worked hard with the pins being perfectly round, tow hitch not worn out good straight bucket with no repairs. The man who owned it said he was using it and shut it down to take a call, when he got back on it would not move. Not trying to ramble on just trying to give all the info I can. All help is apperciated

[BigV]

If you decide that this isn't for you, I'll buy it from you, I don't expect you to sell it for what you gave for it. If you'd be interested in a Mopar muscle car or a Harley Davidson Big Twin, I could also offer those.

I hope it turns out to be something simple.

[Lavoy]

Okay, stupid question, don't get mad, but you said you say you changed trans filter and fluid. There is no trans filter, and the trans and reverser are two different reservoirs. So, did you change the filter on the reverser? Did you refill the reverser, not just put all the extra in the trans? What fluid did you use?
Lavoy

[NWJD fan]

I repaired a straight 350 dozer a number of years back that stripped the splined coupling between the reverser and transmission. Apparently it worked OK one evening and did not want to go the next morning. There was enough drag that it would spin the transmission shaft in neutral and grind a little bit when in gear but not move.

[jack61_23]

The filter that I changed is down on the lower right side of the transmission. It was a plate with 4 bolts. You can see it in between the right track. I filled it back up with 303. I got thick skin fellas I Ain't gonna get mad. I'm trying to learn. How do you remove the reverser to check this shAft? TrAde may be possible on this one if I can't figure it out. Keep the info coming

[Lavoy]

That is not the transmission, that is the reverser, transmission does not have a filter.
Lavoy

[NWJD fan]

You would do well to troubleshoot a little more before checking the coupling between the transmission and reverser as that will require removing the engine, loader, battery box, hydraulic tank fuel tank and reverser to check. I would get the appropriate manuals and go through the reverser function tests and if that checks out OK it is pretty easy to take the lid and shifter mechanism off the transmission and look down inside. If there are no obvious disasters there then it might be time to start thinking about going deep.

[jack61_23]

Ok I have a Manual on order in the mean time can anyone give me a rundown on how to check the reverser. I have a feeling everyone assumes I'm not mechanically inclined. I own an 8N, Allis chalmers CA, Farmall H, New Holland LX 865, and numerous other peices. I'm sure a lot of you have many toys as we'll. I have just always learned best by listening to the old guys and learning from them.

[original possum]

First check reverser pressure. The 1/8" vertical plug on the reverser should show about 95psi in either forward or reverse. If it does, then the reverser is probably good and the coupling broke (they do that). I have removed the tranny from the back by slacking the tracks instead of breaking them. unscrewing the sprockets, and leaning the tracks out (ain't easy). The hydraulic and fuel tanks and battery box come off first. Of course, mine didn't have a loader.

[BigV]

It's not that people on here don't think anyone is mechanically inclined. It's just with a crawler, there are enough nuances and steps, that it isn't as simple as throwing out a suggestion like you can do with a wheel tractor.

The steps to repair one aren't necessarily obvious unless you've done it before or reviewed the procedures in the service manual.

If the steps aren't followed, you can really unintentionally screw some stuff up, and nothing on a crawler is inexpensive, and the labor to correct what can happen is nuts.

The service manual also will tell you when to use JD gauges- and if necessary- whatever specialty tools to complete the job.

It takes so much to actually tell someone what needs to be done, that you're got three options: (1)Take 20-30 minutes to pull out a service manual, take another 15 minutes to find a potential answer, another hour to scan, resize, upload, login post, and give out the copyrighted manual pages. Didn't solve it or the actual problem is covered elsewhere in manual ? Repeat the process. or (2) You can give a general answer detailing the general procedure to accurately diagnose the problem(ie: the coupler is possibly bad and it is serious shit to replace it), note it is going to take a serious amount of labor and strongly suggest getting the service manual before proceeding or (3) you can do what a lot of people do over some of the other crawler/equipment forums: throw out a bunch bullhockey towards the wall, hope some of sticks, sort of like playing pin the tail on the donkey. Problem is, again, you can waste a lot more time and money running down BS advice and trying to fix the problems you create or run into doing it blind without the manual, than you had in the first place.

Only reason I'm telling you this is, is people come on here and they get upset because they feel their questions aren't answered, but it isn't as simple with a crawler or any other piece of a equipment. There a finite number of independent systems on any car or motorcycle, and there are thus only so many things that can go wrong: so pin the tail on the donkey will work on a motorcycle or a car or a wheel tractor- after a while. Crawlers and almost all heavy equipment after the early 60's are designed as a system with almost everything working in unison, with interdependent systems, so it isn't so simple to pinpoint a problem over the internet.

Wait for your manual and save yourself a bunch of wasted time, bunch of wasted money, and a whole lot of confusion and headaches.

Also: if you bought one of Genco or one of the Ebay "new" service manuals, send it back. They are bootlegs- they're someone's photocopies of the real thing that have been scanned and printed at demand. The photos are so dark you can't see anything. The John Deere FSM's are available in PDF, you can download immediately after you pay for it, and print what you need.

No offense intended, good luck with it, hopefully it ends up being mercifully simple.