twistedwillys wrote:Scottyb wrote:their is a primer lever on my 350. it is part of the the fuel pump, just feel back and see if you find the lever. then open your filter bleeds and pump it a bunch of times.
next you can loosen the fuel line at the injector pump and bleed to there.
turn over and bleed injectors. once it fires I bleed each injector some while running.
Scott
Awesome! Thanks for this additional info! Mine does have this lever and it clears everything up that I was corn-fused about! Now just gotta wait for a little warmer temps.
Got outside last night as soon as I got home from work and finally got to take a look at everything really good. Found that the filters were on real loose. Since I was already dirty and had new filters, I decided to go ahead and clean things up and change the filters anyway.
In an effort to help those in the future with Changing the Filters on a JD 350 Loader I've included very brief description of the steps that I took on mine. As always, use as a reference, but do so at your own risk!
Step 1: Raise and SUPPORT the front boom with appropriate Cylinder blocks or safety stands of some sort.
Step 2: Disconnect the battery, close the main fuel shutoff valve under the seat at the bottom of the fuel tank and allow engine to cool.
Step 3: Place a drain pan under the filters to catch any spilled fuel.
Step 4: Slowly unscrew the bolts that secure the forward filter. Hold the filter in place with one hand by holding up on the sediment bowl (Made from Aluminum) while you remove the bolt and set it aside on a clean paper towel or surface.
Step 5: Gently remove the old filter. It slides over a small stub and is secured by a slide fit over an o-ring (verify that this o-ring stays in good condition and remains on the stub, this o-ring does NOT come with the new filters). Discard old filter.
Step 6: Remove and discard old rubber gasket(s) that are on top of and below the filter... Be sure you new filter came with 2 large rubber gaskets and 2 o-rings for the filter bolts.
Step 7: At this point, take a few moments and clean out any sediment or debris that has accumulated over time in the sediment bowl. Clean really good and set aside for now.
Step 8: Clean Filter bolt and replace the o-ring on the bolt head and set aside for now.
Step 9: Repeat steps 4 thru 8 for the rear filter. This filter has a GLASS sediment bowl so handle with care. There is also a small wire screen that is part of this assembly. Be careful with it as well... it is not connected to anything other than it fits around the filter bolt.
Step 10: Clean Glass sediment bowl and ensure that everything else has been cleaned to surgical room cleanliness standards as well.
Step 11: Verify that both upper rubber filter gaskets have been replaced with the new ones that came with the filters. Check to make sure that the gasket is seated correctly and has not twisted during assembly.
Reassembly:
Step 12: Pre-assemble the rear Filter on the Filter bolt in the order: Glass sediment bowl, wire mesh screen, lower rubber filter gasket and the filter cartridge.
Step 13: Slide filter assembly up into place and carefully tighten Filter bolt to a good snug fit. Verify that all gaskets are seated fully and you can not spin the filter... Do not tighten too much.
Step 14: Pre-assemble the forward Filter on the Filter bolt in the order: Aluminum sediment bowl, lower rubber filter gasket and the filter cartridge.
Step 15: Slide filter assembly up into place and carefully tighten Filter bolt to a good snug fit. Verify that all gaskets are seated fully and you can not spin the filter... Do not tighten too much.
Bleeding the filters:
Step 16: Loosen the upper rear most Bleed screw (closest screw to the fuel line that goes to the injection pump) a few turns until you can see a small bleed relief that is cut in the threads of the screw (basically about 2 or 3 turns, maybe more.... just not all the way).
Step 17: Ensure that the main fuel shutoff valve (that you closed during step 2) at the fuel tank is open.
Step 18: Start pumping the fuel pump by lifting the lever at the base of the fuel lift pump until you start squirting fuel out the bleed screw that you loosened in step 16. Be advised, it does take a while to do... you are filling both filters with fuel from empty...
Step 19: Once you have fuel squirting out of the bleed screw, slowly pump the lever on the lift pump and tighten the bleed screw WHILE slowly pumping fuel out the bleed screw.
Step 20: Clean up any spilled fuel and reconnect the battery.
Step 21: Have an assistant watch for issues (leaks) while you attempt to start the motor.
If done correctly, you should fire right up. It may run a little un-even at first. Run it at a medium elevated idle until it smooths out.
Again, this is the procedure that I used on my 350 and it worked great for me. Please use your best judgement and use these instructions as an unofficial guide at your own risk.
Enjoy!
Neil
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