JD350 Track Roller

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jthornton
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JD350 Track Roller

Post by jthornton » Wed Feb 05, 2014 5:52 am

While greasing the track rollers yesterday I noticed that one shaft is loose. It looks like from the parts drawing that four 1/2" bolts hold the bracket that the shaft fits in. I assume from the drawing that the bushings are inside the roller and the shaft stays still as the roller turns.

Can you remove the track roller bracket without removing the track?

JT

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Lavoy
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Post by Lavoy » Wed Feb 05, 2014 8:27 am

That is correct.
If you jack the crawler up and slack the track enough, you can probably get them out. You will need to pull the rockguards first.
Lavoy
Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
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jthornton
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Post by jthornton » Wed Feb 05, 2014 8:49 am

Thanks, as soon as the weather gets a bit better I'll do that. Where do you jack the crawler up at?

Thanks
JT

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Lavoy
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Post by Lavoy » Wed Feb 05, 2014 2:16 pm

Both ends would be the safest to me.
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Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
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jthornton
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Post by jthornton » Wed Feb 05, 2014 4:31 pm

Do you mean on the inside of the track? I don't see any good places to place a bottle jack... can you jack on the final drive?

JT

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Paul Buhler
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Post by Paul Buhler » Wed Feb 05, 2014 6:00 pm

Where do you jack the crawler up at?
Hi: When I asked this question, I got a few different answers, but the one I liked was to back up a bit on a crosswise 4x4, then block tight under the final drive pans, then put a block under the bucket/blade and lift the front end and then put blocks or safety stands under the front cross member and lower until solid.

I did this to rebuild my undercarriage a few years ago and it worked well. Safe, quick and inexpensive. Let safety be you guide. You probably won't have to go as deep into your undercarriage as I did. My jack stands are on 2x12 pads.

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Paul
Paul Buhler
Killington, VT
420c 5 roll with 62 blade, FOPS, and Gearmatic 8a winch

jthornton
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Post by jthornton » Wed Feb 05, 2014 6:16 pm

Thanks so much for the photos, I'm slow and safe at all times. So back up on the 4x4's so it is under the sprocket and has lifted the rear?

JT

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Paul Buhler
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Post by Paul Buhler » Wed Feb 05, 2014 10:34 pm

You've got the idea. By backing onto the 4x4, you lift the rear end at an angle and raise the pans or a rear cross member high enough so that you can block under them. When you block the bucket and use down pressure, you then lift the front end of the machine and the 4x4 is now clear and the tracks can spin free of the ground. When I caulked tracks in the past, this was all that was needed to spin the tracks and do the welding. In your case, you'll need to release the track and get as much clearance as needed to drop out the roll - you may still need to split the track, but I'm not sure. Good luck
Paul Buhler
Killington, VT
420c 5 roll with 62 blade, FOPS, and Gearmatic 8a winch

jthornton
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Post by jthornton » Thu Feb 06, 2014 5:53 am

Paul,

Thanks it makes good sense now.

JT

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Paul Buhler
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Post by Paul Buhler » Thu Feb 06, 2014 10:43 am

When I re-read the post I realized that I was thinking of a 4x4 that spanned both tracks, but I wasn't clear on that point. I've also used a couple of pieces of medium sized firewood blocks, one under each track, to do the same thing.

Image

Image
Paul Buhler
Killington, VT
420c 5 roll with 62 blade, FOPS, and Gearmatic 8a winch

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