I'm still working on a 1971 350B crawler loader that had been sitting 20-25 years according to the previous owner. After a bit of work, it runs well. I have one issue - the right side steering does not work. I suspect the clutch is rusted engaged or something is broken, not letting the clutch disengage. If I pull back on the handle, the track does not stop, but the engine loads up until it is going to stall. My questions - 1. is there a good way to unstick the clutches, or determine that is the actual problem
2. Barring that, the manual does not really address how to get at the clutch other than to remove the entire final drive. Can the clutch be accessed without disassembling the track and removing the entire final drive? If so , how?
Any help is most appreciated. While three lefts does make a right, this is horribly inconvenient.
Thank you,
Marc
350B steering clutch issue
sounds like you right clutch pack is rusted...pull back both levers at the same time and see if the free play is some where close to each other if the right has way more then left then the pack is swollen up bad from rust and there is no hope if they are close then try this .....if you pull back the right lever about half way it should have no load on the engine right??? if so you can block it in that position and run it some and see if it will break loose ...on my 2010 the left was so rusted that with the pressure plate unbolted it still would not break loose when i pulled it down i had to use an air chisel and chip the fibers out of the pack....3 lefts do make a right but on a crawler if you put it in reverse and pull the left clutch/brake you can get lined up then go forward that's what i had to do when i first got my loader till i pulled it down and rebuilt the clutch/brake....YES its a PITA



2010 with 622 dozer with mod. 35 ripper and a 2010 with 622 dozer bought in 1969 and a 2010 loader with drott and mod. 36 ripper
Thanks for the reply - I will try driving it around holding the the arm back to where the clutch should be disengaged, but before the brake engages. I did try that a little, maybe 15 feet. I aslo tried 'popping' the clutch.
Actually the free play is about the same. The right side lever - the side that is frozen - moved rearward more than the left side that works by about 4-6 inches (rearward to engage brake). I did adjust them, but the extra travel came back after a few pulls of the lever. but think I made a mistake in where I left the nut with relation to the detent. I will readjust this weekend.
How difficult was it to remove the final drives and replace the clutch? I was an automotive mechanic for several years, but this looks to be difficult due to the weight of all the parts (track, etc.).
Thanks again,
Marc
Actually the free play is about the same. The right side lever - the side that is frozen - moved rearward more than the left side that works by about 4-6 inches (rearward to engage brake). I did adjust them, but the extra travel came back after a few pulls of the lever. but think I made a mistake in where I left the nut with relation to the detent. I will readjust this weekend.
How difficult was it to remove the final drives and replace the clutch? I was an automotive mechanic for several years, but this looks to be difficult due to the weight of all the parts (track, etc.).
Thanks again,
Marc
not to bad to work on just bigger tools and bigger/heavier parts watch your fingers them tracks like to bite......here is a post that may help you some http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... ing+clutch jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/viewtopic.php?t=70 and here are some pics http://s15.photobucket.com/user/towoc99 ... t=0&page=2 here is more http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... ing+clutch
2010 with 622 dozer with mod. 35 ripper and a 2010 with 622 dozer bought in 1969 and a 2010 loader with drott and mod. 36 ripper
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