BAD WEEKEND 350 got water in engine over winter

splam · Post by **splam** » Sun May 18, 2014 3:43 pm

I had a really @$%^ weekend, went to start my 350 after the winter and it would not turn over. Got checking and the muffler had rusted right below the stack and water ran into the head and eventually into the cylinders. Pulled the engine out since I had bee having trouble with the starter engaging thinking I had a bad ring gear I need to fix anyway. Cylinders and pistons are shot, one lifter is stuck but I hope I can get it out without pulling the cam. I have not pulled the pan yet to see how bad the bottom end is. Hoping I can just put cylinders and pistons in it. Where is the best place to get the parts I need, right from JD or is there better less expensive place? Would you guys do anything else while I have it apart? I was surprised to see my ring gear is not that bad, neither is the starter bendix, any ideas why the starter would just spin not engage when the gears look pretty good?

Thanks

DukeofDeere · Post by **DukeofDeere** » Sun May 18, 2014 4:54 pm

Lavoy may have a deal for you on an engine kit.
I would get the starter rebuilt as well.
Reliance makes good rebuild kits for many Deere machines.

Any idea on hours on that engine?
Major may be best while she is out of the Dozer.

Duke

splam · Post by **splam** » Sun May 18, 2014 8:41 pm

Duke
I do not know the true hours or the history of the crawler. I am thinking the same thing since I have the engine out it may be time to turn the crank and replace the cam. The old girl ran like a top other than the issue with the starter not engaging which still really puzzles me since the ring gear shows very little wear on the teeth. I'll know more once I pull the pan and inspect the water damage on the lower end.
Lavoy, do you sell an overhaul kit for the 350? What is included and how much is it?

gregjo1948 · Post by **gregjo1948** » Mon May 19, 2014 4:25 am

Maybe the starter solenoid is malfunctioning. gregjo1948

splam · Post by **splam** » Mon May 19, 2014 6:16 pm

Well I pulled the pan and other than more sludge than I would like there is no other sign of water in the pan. I have been letting it sit with PB Blaster in the cylinders but still have not been able to get the pistons to move in the liners. Does anyone know of a good way to get them to move other than just be patient and let the oil do its trick?

jtrichard · Post by **jtrichard** » Mon May 19, 2014 6:26 pm

if you are replacing them take a 2x4 and a sledge hammer and drive them down some ( this only works if the piston is not at the top or bottom of the stroke...... worst case take the rod cap off and drive the whole sleeve out the top with the piston in it then you can press it out

hydrogeo · Post by **hydrogeo** » Tue May 20, 2014 10:36 am

If you can scare up a junk starter you could go this route:

http://www.kingofobsolete.ca/KING'S_BAR ... BPAGE.html

Stan Disbrow · Post by **Stan Disbrow** » Tue May 20, 2014 11:19 am

Hi,

Ah, that link has a pic of a TD6. Ironically, I was thinking of the IH crawlers a couple days ago.

Neat 'flywheeel wrench'

Stan

hydrogeo · Post by **hydrogeo** » Wed May 21, 2014 5:58 am

I had an IH 500c for awhile. Its funny, somehow IH has a different personality than JD. No better or worse, just different.

dtoots1 · Post by **dtoots1** » Wed May 21, 2014 4:55 pm

i have a 2010 early model....it has a nice solid pulley on the crank...my 4 cyl gas was really sstuck,,,,,i had pb blast in it for a year plus miracle oil etc....still would not budge......
so...on the pulley on the crank it has 4 holes....i put 1/4 inch flat bar and bolted thru the pulley.....and used small hydraulic jack to get moved ...not pushing it hard.... but latest is i have had to take head off...my 4 exhaust valves definetly need replaced and ma deere says nope aint got....
nevertheless u can move the crank just do it very carefully and lots of pb blast

interesting thing is this old girl had almost a cup of loose rust in the cyls plus another 1/2 cup in the exhaust mfld.....she had been sitting for about 5 yrs...
muffler over the cab protector...but the bent pipe tooo heavy to make seal between muffler and connecction to the exht mfld...so wtr got to the valves and some in cyls....

splam · Post by **splam** » Wed May 21, 2014 8:35 pm

Well I did get all of the pistons out tonight. I had let PB blaster sit in the cylinders for a day and I was able to us a trimmed down 4x4 and pound on the pistons and they moved. I then unbolted the rods and was able to get them out fairly easily. The cylinders are shot as are the pistons and rings. I am very surprised that I do not see any rust in the crank or lower end. The on lifter that was stuck I also got out. The rod journals on the crank also look great but I have not put a caliper on them yet to check wear. I do have quite a bit of sludge in the oil pump pick up. I have not tried to pull the liners yet, how is the best way to get them out of the block? The head has rust on it inside the cylinder holes but I have not pulled the valves yet to see how bad the ports & seats are. How is the best way to pull the injectors? I assume a slide hammer puller, what size are they? The rotating lower end turns fine and feels very smooth but I have not pulled a main bearing cap to check the bearings out yet either. What size are the rod and main journals if it is still standard not ground?
Thanks I'll keep everyone posted how I make out.

jtrichard · Post by **jtrichard** » Wed May 21, 2014 10:17 pm

a sleeve puller is best but you can have a plate machined and use a bottle jack from the floor and push them out ...pm sent

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BAD WEEKEND 350 got water in engine over winter

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