Just searched 38 pages for "seal" and found...

[GRWeldon]

I couldn't find anything related to engine removal or rear main oil seal replacement on a 350 B. I searched for "engine removal", "engine replacement", "rear main oil seal" and "seal". I went thought all 38 pages of "seal" returns and found only two related to the main oil seal on 1010 crawlers.

So, are there no threads on here about removing the engine from a 350B or replacing a rear main oil seal? I find that really hard to believe...

Been using search engines for about 20 years and only found a couple that are like this one. Maybe I'm doing something wrong?

Can anybody point me in the right direction?

[jthornton]

My 350B Service manual says:

Remove hood and grill
Disconnect all necessary wiring etc
Disconnect radiator hoses and remove radiator and pump with support as a unit.
Using a JDG-1 lifting bracket and two JD-244 lifting brackets to support engine remove the cap screws that hold the engine to the transmission or reverser and hoist engine from unit.

I can take a photo of that page if you need to see the lifting brackets.

JT

[NWJD fan]

If it is anything like a straight 350 the engine comes out pretty easy. Remove dozer and C frame if it is a dozer. Remove loader bucket and support loader in fully raised position if it is a loader. Disconnect battery. Remove the nose cone, exhaust stack. Disconnect suction and pressure lines from hydraulic pump, you will lose your hydraulic oil if you haven't already drained it. Disconnect throttle linkage and fuel return line at injection pump. Disconnect fuel supply at fuel pump, remember to close fuel valve at tank. Disconnect battery lead to starter. Most if not all electrical disconnects through 1 connector on RH side of firewall near voltage regulator if it has not been modified for whatever reason over time. Disconnect oil lines from reverser to radiator on LH side of engine down low. Support engine with appropriate lifting hardware. Remove lower engine to reverser bolts from front side, you will want lots of extensions on your ratchet to reach in there. Remove upper engine to reverser bolts from drivers compartment.
Slide engine with hydraulic pump and radiator forward as a unit until clear being careful not to let engine droop on reverser shaft. Needless to say that service and parts manuals will be very useful here to cover whatever I might have forgotten which is probably plenty and help fill in the vague spots. Hope this helps

[GRWeldon]

Thanks guys. I have both the service and parts manuals. I did not see the engine removal process in the service manual, I must have overlooked it or it is very vague. I'll check again.

If I'm not mistaken, isn't the bucket on a loader the only thing that keeps the arms moving as a unit? Do I really need or should I take the bucket off? It makes sense, but I haven't really looked at how it's attached.

I suppose if I did remove the bucket then I could use my engine hoist to raise the arms one at a time to support them with whatever tool I choose.
Good info, again, thank you so much. I'm going on vacation until the 10th, I guess I'll start on the process then.

And to make matters quite a bit worse, I'll be doing this exactly where it is, in the dirt. Thank goodness it's relatively level. I haven't quite figured out how I'll move the engine hoist. Maybe I'll rig up a boom of some sort to the 3-pt hitch on my tractor...

[GRWeldon]

Good day all. Just checking back in after 10 months or so. My crawler is still sitting where it was when I cut the power back in June. I DO however have the bucket supported in the up position.

I'm still building my barn, I doubt it will be anywhere near finished until maybe the end of the year. I don't think I can drag the crawler to a workable space under the barn overhang so I suppose I'll have to replace just the main seal to be able to get the beast running again and move her to where I want her. I don't think I'll be in a position to do that until at least August.

I still want to fix the old lady. She's a constant reminder of my poor buying decision as I see her every day and it bothers the crap out of me. I can still hope...

[Stan Disbrow]

Hi,

A word on service manuals. They have this tendency to be by Series and only cover differences for each major revision. What did not change is not in the later series manuals, but in the first of a series manual.

For example, I have a 1958 420c. I need the manuals for the M, 40, and 420 to cover it. Plus, since it is a Phase III 420c, it has the differential style direction reverser from the later 440 series, so I also need the 440 manual to cover that. Plus a few odd items on the engine (which I personally would not need a manual to figure out).

I used to have a 68 JD 350 and had both the straight and B series manuals for it. So, I know this whole manual mess lasted at least into the 1970s.

Now, my 2008 Phase III 5103 has a complete manual to cover all things Phase III and I only need the one manual.

Question is: when did they change how it was handled?

Anyway, the engine removal procedure would not be in a later series manual if covered in an earlier series manual. So maybe you don't have it for this reason.

Stan

[Stan Disbrow]

Hi,

Take heart. You will get to it in time. You will make what is poor good. Then, you will be quite pleased with your decision to buy it.

I am seriously thinking about buying a scrap value 350 outside blade dozer. And tearing it to bits, rebuilding everything in sight. I think this is the only way I am going to get myself another 350. One that you can jump ln and do work without fear of it dying halfway thru.

Oh, and paint it green and yellow just like a 420. Because I can! And, with a brush. Because it is a working crawler dozer and paint is there only to slow down the rust!

Stan

[Stan Disbrow]

Hi,

Take heart. You will get to it in time. You will make what is poor good. Then, you will be quite pleased with your decision to buy it.

I am seriously thinking about buying a scrap value 350 outside blade dozer. And tearing it to bits, rebuilding everything in sight. I think this is the only way I am going to get myself another 350.

Oh, and paint it green and yellow just like a 420. Because I can! And, with a brush. Because it is a working crawler dozer and paint is there only to slow down the rust!

Stan