9300 backhoe swing motor rebuild

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treespade
MC crawler
MC crawler
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Joined: Sat Jul 05, 2014 8:59 am
Location: Pennsylvania

9300 backhoe swing motor rebuild

Post by treespade » Sat Jul 05, 2014 10:01 pm

Im rebuilding/resealing the swing motor off my 9300 hoe attatchment. Bought the kit from john deere. Everything going good until I got to the point of removing the vain assembly from the main shaft. 12 point cap screws have been removed and I'm left with the 8 threaded studs. Do I have to somehow remove the studs, does the assembly split in half and slide off the studs. Whats the trick to get this thing off?

Farmerford
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Post by Farmerford » Sun Jul 06, 2014 11:08 am

Those are dowel pins that are a tight press fit in the shaft and a somewhat lighter press fit in the seal holder. Put a 5/8 x 11 nut on the threaded part of the pin and turn the nut clockwise to tighten; that will pull the pin out of the bore. Be careful; after three or four turns of the nut the unthreaded part of the pin will emerge from the bore. If you continue tightening the nut you will be trying to screw the nut onto the unthreaded part of the pin. After turning the nut three or four turns, remove the nut and put a half inch or so spacer under it, replace the nut and again tighten the nut three or four turns to pull the pin another 3/8 inch or so from the bore. Repeat until the pin is out.
Farmerford
Columbus, Georgia

treespade
MC crawler
MC crawler
Posts: 4
Joined: Sat Jul 05, 2014 8:59 am
Location: Pennsylvania

Post by treespade » Sun Jul 06, 2014 12:30 pm

Thank You Farmerford soo much. It all makes sense now.Can I just press or tap them back down to re assemble? Should I locktite the 12 point bolts when I put it together?.

Farmerford
40C crawler
40C crawler
Posts: 23
Joined: Sat Oct 28, 2006 7:16 am
Location: Columbus, Georgia

Post by Farmerford » Mon Jul 07, 2014 5:07 am

Glad it helped. Tap them back in with a hammer; I drilled a shallow 5/8" hole in the end of a short length of 1" mild steel round bar to put over the end of the pin to minimize the distortion from pounding; probably not necessary since the pins are hardened.

The bolts are to be tightened to 375 foot pounds, so no Loctite is needed.
Farmerford
Columbus, Georgia

treespade
MC crawler
MC crawler
Posts: 4
Joined: Sat Jul 05, 2014 8:59 am
Location: Pennsylvania

Post by treespade » Mon Jul 07, 2014 5:41 am

Thanks Again. And thanks for the torque spec.

Farmerford
40C crawler
40C crawler
Posts: 23
Joined: Sat Oct 28, 2006 7:16 am
Location: Columbus, Georgia

Post by Farmerford » Mon Jul 07, 2014 6:48 am

No problem. All the bolts (12 point bolts attaching the vane to the barrel and hex bolts attaching the top and bottom covers) call for 375 foot pounds of torque, dry (which incidently is the maximum recommended toque for a 3/4 x 10 grade 8 bolt). On mine, the bolts attaching the vane to the shaft must have been torqued even more than that; I burst two 1/2" drive twelve point sockets trying to loosen then before I bought a 3/4" twelve point socket. But the 12 point bolts on the barrel vane and the hex bolts on the covers were not nearly so tight; they were torqued to perhaps 250 to 300 foot pounds at most. It does not appear to have been dissambled before, but I can't be sure. I could not see any looseness from the lesser torque. In any event, I tightened everything back to 375 foot pounds.
Farmerford
Columbus, Georgia

treespade
MC crawler
MC crawler
Posts: 4
Joined: Sat Jul 05, 2014 8:59 am
Location: Pennsylvania

Post by treespade » Mon Jul 07, 2014 6:56 am

Ok thanks

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