350 strait reverser not working

69 350 dozer · Post by **69 350 dozer** » Sat Jul 26, 2014 5:18 pm

I have a 350 strait dozer that was working in forward and reverse that started to squeal when a load was put on it. It started just before the engine started to lug from the load. Then my forward and reverse started to slowly fade, now nothing. Clutches in reverser? Any help would be appreciated

jsal · Post by **jsal** » Sun Jul 27, 2014 6:58 am

Possibly the splined coupling between reserver and differential it happened to me. lots of taking apart .

good luck JIM

69 350 dozer · Post by **69 350 dozer** » Sun Jul 27, 2014 9:42 am

Update.
I went out to land to winch the dozer up to the road so we can get it home. There is a slight smell of burnt clutch or brake material comeing from it. I know the brakes are loose because it rolls (pulled it uphill this morning, 12K winch on truch attached to drawbar and B21 Kubota pushing against the blade). Going to see if maybe theres some sort of clutch in front of reverser on the engine.

Post by **Lavoy** » Sun Jul 27, 2014 9:54 am

No clutch in front of the reverser on 350, just the isolator, and no real way that I can see it possible for it to squeal.
Lavoy

Stan Disbrow · Post by **Stan Disbrow** » Sun Jul 27, 2014 11:34 am

Hi,

Sounds like it may have lost the steering clutches on both sides. I have seen where equally worn fibers will go out at the same time before. That would account for the fading in both forward and reverse along with the burnt smell....

I don't figure you have a PTO shaft on a 350 to see if you still have power past the reverser....

Stan

69 350 dozer · Post by **69 350 dozer** » Sun Jul 27, 2014 4:57 pm

Stan

If both steering clutches go out at the same time, I should be able to pull the top covers and the smell should be worse. No, it does not have a PTO shaft so I can't see it I have power past the reverser. If it is the steering clutches this means major take it apart time, however I think I would rather replace steering than take the reverser apart. Either way this is going to be an adventure.

Sharn

69 350 dozer · Post by **69 350 dozer** » Sun Jul 27, 2014 5:30 pm

Stan, Levoy

I just looked at my manual. Do you really have to take the back end and tracks off to get to the steering? I will take the covers off tomorrow and see if thats the smell

Sharn

Post by **Lavoy** » Sun Jul 27, 2014 7:24 pm

yes if you are removing the finals, no if you only adjusting. I would make sure it is not an adjustment issue or something else prior to pulling finals.
Lavoy

original possum · Post by **original possum** » Sun Jul 27, 2014 7:35 pm

No. You don't need to do anything but split the tracks and remove the sprocket shields and sprockets. Find two 1/2" bolts 20" long with NC threads at least 2" but as little as possible. Alternatively, take two shorter bolts, cut the head off one and weld it to the threaded end of the other and then grind it to 1/2" diameter, making two long bolts. Screw these into the two holes where #19 is on the JD parts diagram. Get 1/2" bolts short enough so that, when threaded into the sprocket shield bolt holes they will be 1/2" below the long ones. Weld a 1/2" rod to the head of each of these to form a "T" with about one inch on one side and 4" on the other. This is because the sprocket shield holes do not line up with bolt #19. Put the T's in first, then the long bolts. These will form a "rail" to slide the final drive outward. Slide it out, and then reach in and push the input shaft back into the "differential". Block up under the loosened final drive with a longer board on top so you can raise the final and remove the long bolts. Then roll out the whole final. If the input shaft refuses to move you may have clamp a bearing separator on it and pry it loose. Using these rails also helps ensure no damage to seals on installation.

Stan Disbrow · Post by **Stan Disbrow** » Mon Jul 28, 2014 5:00 am

69 350 dozer wrote:Stan

If both steering clutches go out at the same time, I should be able to pull the top covers and the smell should be worse. No, it does not have a PTO shaft so I can't see it I have power past the reverser. If it is the steering clutches this means major take it apart time, however I think I would rather replace steering than take the reverser apart. Either way this is going to be an adventure.

Sharn

Hi,

The last time I had to do the clutches on my 420, I slowly dropped power under load, and there was some squealing noise as it happened. I stopped pushing and reversed, and she didn't get far before she stopped dead.

So, then my question had to be what gave? Engine clutch? Reverser? Splined couplings? I have a PTO shaft, so that showed me I had power all the way back. Had to be the steering clutches.

After getting them both off, all the fiber discs were worn the same and both sides just started slipping. I suppose actually one side went first, but then the load increased on the other side and it went a few seconds later. Not that this detail meant anything when I was on the seat......

Can one see enough thru the steering adjustment covers to tell if there is drive into the clutches? You certainly do not want to pull anything you do not have to....

My 350 had a cover where the PTO would have gone, but I do not recall that it had a lever. If it does, ought to be able to see the drive behind the cover.

I let my 350 manuals go with the machine, so I can't look up what is there when it has no PTO.

Stan

69 350 dozer · Post by **69 350 dozer** » Mon Jul 28, 2014 8:52 am

Hi all

Pulled the clutch adjusting covers and there is that smell. Pulled the ROPS off (what fun) because we cracked a few welds when trying to pull her out, so they need repaired. I,m going to try to look down the adjusting area and fire her up to see if I can see or hear anything.

I'll keep you posted.

On a side note, now we have "naked and afraid". Dozer looks naked, and I'm afraid of whats next.

Sharn

Stan Disbrow · Post by **Stan Disbrow** » Mon Jul 28, 2014 9:33 am

Hi,

I prefer my dozers naked. But, I too am afraid of what you find to fix as you get into this.....

I usually find I have to bust 16 things that were sitting there fat, dumb and happy until I went to take it apart.

Stan

69 350 dozer · Post by **69 350 dozer** » Mon Jul 28, 2014 12:28 pm

Well, it's the steering clutches. I have both covers off, started the engine put it in gear and I can see the pressure plates trying to move.

I jacked up the right side. Pulled the pin, split the track, and, I have several bottom rollers that need replacement, and, it looks like all the bushings are worn through.

Now I'm asking at what point do you stop and think about running it across the scales? I'm 6K into it.

Sharn

Post by **Lavoy** » Mon Jul 28, 2014 12:46 pm

That's a tough question, and kind of a personal one. If you want to have a crawler, fix the one you own, the one you buy is likely just like yours 10 minutes before the clutches quit. Even if you don't want it, a running crawler is way easier to sell than a dead one, and better than scrap. If you want to have a crawler, how long do you want to have it? If short term, hire it done and quit, if long term, keep it and fix it, the relatics can argue about it at the estate sale. Do you have work it can do for you that would otherwise cost you money? If so, that will offset some or all of the cost depending on how much you have to do.
Just some ideas.
Lavoy

69 350 dozer · Post by **69 350 dozer** » Mon Jul 28, 2014 12:57 pm

Lavoy

I know its a tough question. I have a fair amount of work I'd like to do and I like to do it with my own equipment. I don't mind pulling wrenches. Could I do the steering and maybe the rollers now and replace the track later?

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350 strait reverser not working

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