Welding Linkage Holes

jthornton · Post by **jthornton** » Fri Sep 05, 2014 10:31 am

I did figure out today that for a slop free hole for the 5/16" spring pins you need to use a P bit for the parts that swivel on the spring pin and a 5/16" or a few thou smaller for the press fit hole.

I need to replace a couple of track rollers and figure out how to replace the bushings that connect the 6-way to the crawler frame... and and and

JT

jthornton · Post by **jthornton** » Sat Sep 06, 2014 12:56 pm

Done!

JT

jtrichard · Post by **jtrichard** » Sat Sep 06, 2014 11:59 pm

here are some mods my dad made to our 2010 linkage put Zerk in and added stop on "T" handle which was done on later JD's... made a world of difference for less wear and less slop he used a nut ...JD used a washer on the handle... looks like there was something on your "T" handle that was removed?..

jthornton · Post by **jthornton** » Sun Sep 07, 2014 5:34 am

If your talking about the brazed spot, someone brazed it up to try and fill the gap of the worn out bushing. I turned the brazing down to the original diameter so it would fit the new bushing.

JT

Labparamour · Post by **Labparamour** » Mon Sep 08, 2014 4:41 pm

Nice looking job on the blade controls! That should make for much better control grading.
My son had a TD7 that the bullgrader frame to crawler frame had tons of slop in and looked like it had beaten itself oval. I have some pins and bosses like that on the loader. Still sketching up a Rube Goldberg line-boring bar set-up and see if I can go oversize and bush.

jthornton · Post by **jthornton** » Mon Sep 08, 2014 5:01 pm

Dang we are old... I collected a bunch of Rube Goldberg parts to make a boring bar for my backhoe but never got a RoundTuit.

JT

Stan Disbrow · Post by **Stan Disbrow** » Mon Sep 08, 2014 7:10 pm

Hi,

I have an old (1930s) boring bar. But, this conversation is getting to be boring.....

Stan

jthornton · Post by **jthornton** » Tue Sep 09, 2014 5:44 am

Got a photo of the boring bar?

JT

Stan Disbrow · Post by **Stan Disbrow** » Tue Sep 09, 2014 7:42 am

Hi,

Nope. It is buried behind the milling machine in the shop. Dad used to use it a lot building racing engines. I used sleeved engines most of the time in my racing, or had cast cylinders which were too small for this bar. He raced stock cars, I ran sports and formula cars. Anyway, I took my cast engines elsewhere to a buddy's who had a smaller bar when I needed to bore them.

IIRC, it is a Storm and minimum is 4". I will have to dig it out and look at it to be sure. I keep it around because it does not eat and I might want to work up a cast tractor engine one day.

Stan

Labparamour · Post by **Labparamour** » Tue Sep 09, 2014 10:05 am

If you YouTube Kieth Fenner he has a 4 pt video where part of the repair was building a boring bar. The bar and cutter insert seems pretty straight forward. Surplus Center has keyed shafting and flange bearings to support the bar. My challenge is a drive/feed system…

jthornton · Post by **jthornton** » Tue Sep 09, 2014 10:56 am

This video shows them using a magnetic drill.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZB7ba36BoNk

And I have one!

Now to figure out what rods they use to weld up the holes.

JT

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Welding Linkage Holes

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