Over the past 3 or 4 operating days, when I started the machine the hydraulic filter restriction light would come on (we have had cool nights and I figured oil is cold)....at low idle it would go out and as the engine warmed up, I could increase rpm without the light coming on....I replaced the filter this morning and no indicator light....
Worked on cleaning the pond, just hauling dirt for about 4 hours....picked up a load that was quite heavy (lots of clay), carried it to my dumping place and the bucket would not dump...no hydraulic function worked other than letting the bucket go down....I checked to make sure the control value linkages were hooked up and they were....
No unusual noises or indications of a problem....
Any suggestions or ideas?
455E hydraulics not working
Ok....after the frustration of the hydraulics failing yesterday, I removed the grill and pressure washed around the hydraulic pump and the drive components for the pump. I started the loader and looked to make sure the drive components were turning and they all were....sort of expected that....I can see that the splined coupling that connects the shaft and the hydraulic pump shaft is spinning.
That leads me to think I have one of three issues:
1. the splined coupling has stripped such that it will not drive the pump shaft
2. the pump shaft has stripped
3. something internal to the pump has failed
There are no unusual noises coming from the drive components or the pump....
From what little I know, numbers 2 and 3 would mean I would have to replace the pump.
My question now goes to the best way to get to the pump and the splined coupling. I know the absolute best way would be to remove the nose of the machine, but I don't have a good way to do that...no shop or overhead pulley setup. The pump is readily accessible...if I just unbolt it, should it just lift out? Or should I remove the belly pan? If I must remove the nose, are there any helpful hints from those that have done it before?
Any and all advice welcomed....I need it....
That leads me to think I have one of three issues:
1. the splined coupling has stripped such that it will not drive the pump shaft
2. the pump shaft has stripped
3. something internal to the pump has failed
There are no unusual noises coming from the drive components or the pump....
From what little I know, numbers 2 and 3 would mean I would have to replace the pump.
My question now goes to the best way to get to the pump and the splined coupling. I know the absolute best way would be to remove the nose of the machine, but I don't have a good way to do that...no shop or overhead pulley setup. The pump is readily accessible...if I just unbolt it, should it just lift out? Or should I remove the belly pan? If I must remove the nose, are there any helpful hints from those that have done it before?
Any and all advice welcomed....I need it....
You could jack up the bucket so that you can drive the loader between two stout trees. Put a chain from one tee to the other. You can then suspend a chain fall from the chain to lift the bucket up to its full height. Then I use 2 pieces of 4 inch angle iron 24 inches long and set them on the bucket ram rods so the ends rest against the end of the ram cylinder and where the ram rod attaches to the loader arm. This will hold the arms up securely. I then use 4x4s across the two arms to suspend my come alongs from. I have pulled the nose and engine with this set up. I also put an old towel on the rod to protect it from the steel angle iron.
Any day you wake up breathing is a good day and the only easy day is yesterday.
Finally got the new coupling, put it on, and still hydraulics not working. Best I can tell the power shaft has moved back some and the coupling just is not connecting to the pump shaft.
Will go back to work on it next week. Will try to see if the shaft has moved; if it has will pull it forward. May cut the old coupling to make a spacer to ensure I get half of the coupling on the power shaft and half for the pump shaft, or may drill a hole at the halfway point of the coupling and put in a spring pin....
Things should not be so hard....
Will go back to work on it next week. Will try to see if the shaft has moved; if it has will pull it forward. May cut the old coupling to make a spacer to ensure I get half of the coupling on the power shaft and half for the pump shaft, or may drill a hole at the halfway point of the coupling and put in a spring pin....
Things should not be so hard....
When I first put the coupling on the power shaft and then attempted to mount the pump, the pump shaft did not fit into the coupling correctly and when I tightened the mounting bolts to the pump, the power shaft moved back toward the engine. The rear slip ring moved out of its groove allowing the power shaft to move further...this resulted in a fairly large gap between the power shaft and the pump shaft. The coupling was not able to bridge that gap. My friend bought over his slam hammer (I think that is its name) and pulled the power shaft forward...and we put the slip ring back into its proper groove..
Put everything back together and it worked, although a good quantity of oil leaked...will need to bring the oil level back up to normal.....
Put everything back together and it worked, although a good quantity of oil leaked...will need to bring the oil level back up to normal.....
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