HELP PLEASE

rivercabin53 · Post by **rivercabin53** » Wed Nov 12, 2014 10:12 am

Have my final off a 350 dozer and don't know if the clutches are bad or not. Not sure how thick they should mic to? I don.t think they are fiber if they are all is wore off but I think they are bi metallic

As I had no power to the left track but now I think it has to do with the rod that works the throw out bearing as it won't come out but I'm going to get it out someday. As I turn the brake drum the it turns all parts as it should but might slip when the track is back on but just with the final drive out it works.

Now the other problem I have is the brake lining is wore out .Can a person replace just the lining or do you have to buy it as a whole brake?

Larry

Post by **Lavoy** » Wed Nov 12, 2014 3:34 pm

You are not going to like my answer, but if in doubt, throw them in the garbage and put in new ones, then you know for sure. I don't like pulling finals, so if I have one off, it gets discs and pressure plate. I had a customer that pulled a final drive 4 times because he thought the old discs were fine, last go around, put in new discs, and problem solved.
Clutch kit is $637 with all discs, pressure plate, brake band and throwout bearing.
Lavoy

rivercabin53 · Post by **rivercabin53** » Wed Nov 12, 2014 10:18 pm

Lavoy wrote:You are not going to like my answer, but if in doubt, throw them in the garbage and put in new ones, then you know for sure. I don't like pulling finals, so if I have one off, it gets discs and pressure plate. I had a customer that pulled a final drive 4 times because he thought the old discs were fine, last go around, put in new discs, and problem solved.
Clutch kit is $637 with all discs, pressure plate, brake band and throwout bearing.
Lavoy

OK I never had one apart before so that's why I'm asking don't want to do the same side twice. So it that all that is needed in the clutch? And do I need a gauge to set the pressure plate. And how hard should it be to get the throw out barring rod out or just keep working it? Thanks when I get back from hunting will call you to get the parts . Larry

Post by **Lavoy** » Thu Nov 13, 2014 9:10 am

Is the rod bent, or just sticky?
Lavoy

rivercabin53 · Post by **rivercabin53** » Thu Nov 13, 2014 3:18 pm

Lavoy wrote:Is the rod bent, or just sticky?
Lavoy

Got it out was just stuck finely got it out the bottom bushing and all. So now I also need a soft plug but should be able to find that around here. Might need a new spring for throw out but I see you have them, the one I have has a hook on one end but not the other but maybe that's the way there made. Going hunting for two weeks and when I get back will get this thing cleaned up and order the parts for the rebuild. Thanks for the help. Larry

cdunn · Post by **cdunn** » Thu Nov 13, 2014 3:27 pm

Just a comment, adding a disk to take up space for worn disks, is not the answer
for slipping steering clutches due to wear. From experience, i won't go to all the
work to pull a final without replacing disk with new ones.

rivercabin53 · Post by **rivercabin53** » Thu Nov 13, 2014 3:34 pm

cdunn wrote:Just a comment, adding a disk to take up space for worn disks, is not the answer
for slipping steering clutches due to wear. From experience, i won't go to all the
work to pull a final without replacing disk with new ones.

Nope going to get all new getting old and lazy don't want to do it twice. Larry

dillon45 · Post by **dillon45** » Sat Nov 15, 2014 11:14 pm

Lavoy is right 100% after all your work tearing it down replace the old
w/ new parts IMHO.

jtrichard · Post by **jtrichard** » Sun Nov 16, 2014 3:03 pm

cdunn wrote:Just a comment, adding a disk to take up space for worn disks, is not the answer
for slipping steering clutches due to wear. From experience, i won't go to all the
work to pull a final without replacing disk with new ones.

PROPERLY done there is ABSOLUTELY nothing wrong with adding an extra steel (NOT A FIBER DISC) to make up for the "wear" from years of use which causes the slipping... I have 3- 2010s that i have "shimmed" all three all have been working for years (just like new) since

Paul Buhler · Post by **Paul Buhler** » Sun Nov 16, 2014 4:25 pm

JT: I once had to repair a 350b that had steering issues; young, no money, no time, and needed the machine back on line asap. I chose to add a shim, and buttoned up the offending clutch pack, and went back to work (I did put in new seals). Worked well for at least two more years on very challenging terrain at which point I traded this machine in on my first new dozer, a 450c set up for logging.
The point you make is well taken. A steel was cheap and allowed me to put more money in my pocket so that I could upgrade sooner - I did let the dealership know what I had done, and like car dealers, it really didn't matter to them. The 350b steered reliably and strongly with the repair, and hopefully the dealership let the new owner know the situation. That said, on my 420, I can afford the time and material to do an upgrade with new parts and know that the clutches and brakes will last a long time, and be passed on to the new owner in better shape than when I received it. Couldn't really say that about the 350.

Paul

cdunn · Post by **cdunn** » Sun Nov 16, 2014 10:26 pm

No offense to anyone who wants to shim up their clutch disk pack. Its their tractor and mine is mine. I have two 350's that I have renewed the steering clutches with new parts throughout. I am too old to be pulling finals, expecially by myself. My dad was an auto mechanic for over fifty years and taught me " that if its worth doing, its worth doing right" and in my opinion, that means using new parts in this instance.
Spaclng up with a steel is taking up space of worn fibers. I just like the idea of putting it back like John Deere built it. To me that's doing it right. I'm planning on handing my tractors down to my grandson who thankfully has taken an interest in them and maybe they will be in good shape when that time comes.
Again, no offense to anyone in the way they repair or work on their machines, nothing wrong with saving money. I'm just being me.

ja600 · Post by **ja600** » Mon Nov 17, 2014 11:20 am

I happen to agree with you CDunn

jtrichard · Post by **jtrichard** » Mon Nov 17, 2014 11:32 am

Well... the one 2010 i have has been in the family since 1969 i was 12 and I have been running it since then,it was shimmed about 20 years ago and still running strong.... 30 years on NEW JD parts and another 20 plus years and still going on the original JD parts and a $30 fix/shim .... .010 to .015 wear is all the wear we are talking about on a fiber that is .185 + thick ..... so from what i hear being said some guys NEVER turn brake drums/rotors NEVER grind a crank shaft down or bore a block for over sized pistons because then it would NOT be as the manufacture originally made it ....HMMM very interesting .... a lot of very expensive parts being bought new for IMHO no reason...

cdunn · Post by **cdunn** » Mon Nov 17, 2014 5:29 pm

We could keep this going on and on but no purpose would be served. Very respectfully, like I said; anyone can do whatever they want with their tractor and I'll do the same with mine.

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