350C isolator CONVERSION - "C" to "D"

Post support questions about your JD350 and newer crawler here
cantbeatadeere
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Post by cantbeatadeere » Sat Mar 07, 2015 7:46 pm

OOOOOO BABY..........just got my hub and tomorrow I am putting it all together...will take some pics and post after..... :D :D :D :D

pondhogvt
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350 isolator

Post by pondhogvt » Sat Mar 07, 2015 9:55 pm

Can't wait to see the pictures.. I'll bet it will feel so much smoother idling and operating with less metallic vibration...goodluck..goodjob.. Mark
350 loader,350c dozer winch and arch,450c winch and arch,450e winch and arch,D37p komatsu lgp dozer,D85 Komatsu dozer,D8k Caterpillar.

cantbeatadeere
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Post by cantbeatadeere » Sun Mar 08, 2015 1:18 pm

https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hp ... 4729_o.jpg

https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hp ... 2576_o.jpg

https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hp ... 4986_o.jpg


She is done!!! first pic is the hub which I bolted in then removed one bolt at a time installing rivets in a "star" pattern with a holder my Father made. second pic is of the completed isolator installed to the flywheel with grade 8 bolts and blue Loctite. Last pic is right after setting it back on the ground and test running....sounds great, no more hammering while operating....also it paid big dividends properly shimming the reverser as this took care of the loud "howling" I had when backing up using the reverser....... I hope this thread has been very helpful to people with the 350c's !










:D :P :D :D
Last edited by cantbeatadeere on Sat Feb 13, 2016 10:06 am, edited 3 times in total.

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Paul Buhler
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Post by Paul Buhler » Sun Mar 08, 2015 5:38 pm

Congrats. Just in time for sugaring. Can you post a video of your machine running?
Paul Buhler
Killington, VT
420c 5 roll with 62 blade, FOPS, and Gearmatic 8a winch

cantbeatadeere
440 crawler
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Location: new york..upstate..

Post by cantbeatadeere » Sun Mar 08, 2015 5:50 pm

I sure will try Paul, just got back from running it for a while and getting it up to temp. pushing some snow. being able to hear myself think while operating it is nice to say the least, and NOT hearing my reverser whine like hell backing up is also great...I used to HAVE to wear high quality ear protection just to be able to stand to backup with it.......gooood and quiet now!!

cantbeatadeere
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Joined: Tue Sep 02, 2014 4:30 pm
Location: new york..upstate..

Post by cantbeatadeere » Wed May 13, 2015 5:26 am

Well between my father and I we have put about 40hrs on the machine and what a little sweetheart these 350's are, my father has done quite a bit of long overdue ditching to dry up several wet areas in the fields, pushed back hedgerows and some general trail maint. after all that work had one fitting up front I must have not tightend enough and lost a little hyd. oil, quick fix, just stinks due to the machine being so clean and dry - we all know how oil collects...I will have to get my sons Go-Pro and post a video at some point.

cantbeatadeere
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Post by cantbeatadeere » Sat Feb 13, 2016 8:40 am

Haven't had to come on here in a while, figured I would pull this thread forward to help some who are getting there dozers ready for spring (and give us something to look at while its below 0 out) My Father and I have done quite a lot of work with this thing and it is handy as hell-- works great!!

donnaldp46
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350reverser howling in reverse

Post by donnaldp46 » Mon Feb 22, 2016 10:41 pm

cantbeatadeeere said his reverser howled in reverse and he solve the problem by properly shimming the reverser. I lost a bearing in my 350C reverser. I took it apart and put new bearings and seals in and shimmed the shafts according the manual with .002to.004 inches of end play. It howled very loud in reverse after I got it back together. I have it apart now trying to figure out why it howls in reverse but can not see any real reason for the howl. Could properly shim the reverser solve my problem and if so how do I properly shim it?? I could sure use some HELP. Thank you.

cantbeatadeere
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Post by cantbeatadeere » Wed Feb 24, 2016 6:37 pm

Be sure to shim BOTH end bearings properly. mine was deafening prior to the shimming I did. They all whine a little from the one's I have heard, and possibly the gears were worn in such a way that after the bearing repair in your reverser they do not mesh exactly the same to each other causing the whine. re-check your end play with a dial ind. before you disassemble the reverser and see where your at...keep us posted on your progress......

donnaldp46
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Post by donnaldp46 » Thu Feb 25, 2016 11:04 am

I had it apart before I saw your post so I did not measure the end play of the shafts. The reverse metal discs are blue, could the reverse clutch be slipping and cause a loud grinding noise? I have replaced both clutch packs in a hope that will solve my problem. By proper shimming do you mean .002to .004 inches for the end play on both shafts? Thanks

Don

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Stan Disbrow
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Post by Stan Disbrow » Thu Feb 25, 2016 12:48 pm

Hi,

Blue metal clutch parts tells me Heat, which is usually from slipping. No matter what kind of clutch it is.....

Stan
There's No Such Thing As A Cheap Crawler!

Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
Useta Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside blade
Useta Have: '68 JD350, '51 Terratrac GT-25
Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (now known as 5045D)

cantbeatadeere
440 crawler
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Post by cantbeatadeere » Thu Feb 25, 2016 7:15 pm

https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hp ... 0560_o.jpg


this is the back of the reverser where you check and shim the main drive shaft and the counter shaft (the one with the two gears on it). each cap has thin and thick shims in a pack. you will need a dial indicator to check this. stand the reverser vertically - front down- upon a couple of 8x8's. the one cap has a pipe plug in the center of it that you remove to put your dial ind. in place, reach through the filter housing with a small pry bar and check your total movement of the countershaft, this is adjusted buy removing the cap and adding or removing shims. --now--the main drive shaft you will pry from the tip of the splined shaft (which goes into your isolator) same process set both to the spec. while you have it out....good luck!!!----Stan is correct, HEAT---was ran low on oil or low pressure will blue the heck out of your spacer plates, and glaze the clutch plates as
well. hope this helps
Last edited by cantbeatadeere on Fri Feb 26, 2016 6:18 am, edited 3 times in total.

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Lavoy
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Post by Lavoy » Thu Feb 25, 2016 7:38 pm

Blue is burnt discs, lots of heat, lots of slippage, most likely lack of maintenance as well. Slippage is usually a pressure or leakage issue, make sure you fix or have fixed that too.
Lavoy
Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com

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jtrichard
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Post by jtrichard » Thu Feb 25, 2016 8:15 pm

PIC link NOT working :x :x
2010 with 622 dozer with mod. 35 ripper and a 2010 with 622 dozer bought in 1969 and a 2010 loader with drott and mod. 36 ripper

cantbeatadeere
440 crawler
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Posts: 149
Joined: Tue Sep 02, 2014 4:30 pm
Location: new york..upstate..

Post by cantbeatadeere » Fri Feb 26, 2016 6:19 am

Try now--- tech. can be a pain.---noticed other pics on here don't link up either and I will re post them when I get a second. weird how these things can just vanish???
Last edited by cantbeatadeere on Fri Feb 26, 2016 8:00 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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