350 Forward/Reverser Oil Filter
350 Forward/Reverser Oil Filter
Just picked up a '68 straight 350 dozer to use around the farm. Thought it would be good to dump all the fluids and change all the filters as the maintenance history is in question. No problem crossing filters to NAPA until I got to the reverser filter........ Anybody have a cross reference for the JD reverser filter?
http://www.wixfilters.com/
Awesome site to determine/cross reference filters. Found out that the 350's reverser filter is a WIX 51242 or NAPA 1242.
Awesome site to determine/cross reference filters. Found out that the 350's reverser filter is a WIX 51242 or NAPA 1242.
I haven't changed mine yet as I've been busy and my left steering clutch is taking precedence. If I remember right the filter location is about center on the machine very close to the belly pan The filter cover is rectangular about 3" square held in place by 4 bolts and is facing towards the right track frame. The reverser oil drain plug is in the center of the filter housing. Hope that helps.
Well, I finally changed the reverser filter. Not a big deal to accomplish but from the looks of it the previous owner never even thought about it. The filter was JD OEM and it was coated with some nasty goo that looked like grease mixed with oil with a bit of water to make it really nasty. When I tested the dozer it seemed sluggish but I attributed it to the cold weather, I'll bet the dozer will have a bit more pep in it after the oil and filter change. I'll put a few hours on it and drop the oil and filter again. Hopefully the reverser gods will smile favorably on me.
During the steering clutch replacement/ general maintenance/ fluid change I also found that the lower reverser/transmission bolts were finger tight. Pulled them out cleaned them up and added a touch of blue Loc-tight. Also, three of six bolts were missing from the center support where it connects the frame rail and the reverser/bell housing. I'll need to dig a bit deeper to check some of the other major component bolts just to be safe but I think I caught these before serious damage occurred.
Thank goodness the previous owner only used the dozer for light duty. His lack of GM could have easily put a end to this dozer in another couple of years. It never ceases to amaze me that some folks pay good money for equipment but ignore basic maintenance.
During the steering clutch replacement/ general maintenance/ fluid change I also found that the lower reverser/transmission bolts were finger tight. Pulled them out cleaned them up and added a touch of blue Loc-tight. Also, three of six bolts were missing from the center support where it connects the frame rail and the reverser/bell housing. I'll need to dig a bit deeper to check some of the other major component bolts just to be safe but I think I caught these before serious damage occurred.
Thank goodness the previous owner only used the dozer for light duty. His lack of GM could have easily put a end to this dozer in another couple of years. It never ceases to amaze me that some folks pay good money for equipment but ignore basic maintenance.
You do make a valid point, oil and grease is much cheaper than parts and
labor. You must be a pretty good mechanic to tackle the job of
replacing the steering clutch brakes. I have seen it done on video
and to say the least it looks daunting
I would like to try this myself but not sure if I could handle it, everything
has to come apart to get to them things. I often wondered why JD designed
it the way they did. Did you have to make any special tools for the job ?
labor. You must be a pretty good mechanic to tackle the job of
replacing the steering clutch brakes. I have seen it done on video
and to say the least it looks daunting
I would like to try this myself but not sure if I could handle it, everything
has to come apart to get to them things. I often wondered why JD designed
it the way they did. Did you have to make any special tools for the job ?
R&R the steering clutches is not that bad if you are mechanically inclined. The photos and advice on this forum are a excellent resource for information. From all the discussion and threads on the steering clutches it can and does sound like a daunting task but if you take your time and have the right tools and area i.e. shop to work with it is relatively simple.
I did use the 2 5/8" alignment bolts to remove and replace the assembly, they helped a bunch. The only issue I had was that the drive shaft was "frozen" to the clutch pack. I used a air hammer to rattle it a couple of times and it freed right up. Slid it out of the clutch and removed the assembly by using 2 picking eye bolts and a cable, using a skidsteer w/forks to do the lifting. By using this method I didn't have to take the battery box off. The skid steer made life easy but a cheery picker/engine hoist would be just as effective.
My personal opinion: with all of the information at our finger tips you can study a project to death, get overly concerned with all the problems that you read about (typically you only hear about the problems) instead of rolling up your sleeves and getting greasy. Common sense problem solving is really your best "tool in the box" when it comes to working on these older dozers.
Best of luck with your dozer.
I did use the 2 5/8" alignment bolts to remove and replace the assembly, they helped a bunch. The only issue I had was that the drive shaft was "frozen" to the clutch pack. I used a air hammer to rattle it a couple of times and it freed right up. Slid it out of the clutch and removed the assembly by using 2 picking eye bolts and a cable, using a skidsteer w/forks to do the lifting. By using this method I didn't have to take the battery box off. The skid steer made life easy but a cheery picker/engine hoist would be just as effective.
My personal opinion: with all of the information at our finger tips you can study a project to death, get overly concerned with all the problems that you read about (typically you only hear about the problems) instead of rolling up your sleeves and getting greasy. Common sense problem solving is really your best "tool in the box" when it comes to working on these older dozers.
Best of luck with your dozer.
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