1966 JD 1010C Electrical

[EdK]

Hello, I am in the process of changing the ignition switch, when I got the machine it was hot wired after testing the switch it is bad I'm guessing thats the reason for it being hotwired. There are two plugs that were removed and just hanging; one is a double red wire one wire goes to the negative side of the coil the other red wire goes to the resistor. The other plug is a white wire that is attached to the otherside of the resistor, any one know where they attach to the ignition switch? Also I have found that the coil is labeled 6 Volt I don't understand that either seeing that its a 12 volt positive ground setup! Any help would be greatly apreciated Ed.

[Pammark]

It sounds like the 1010 used to be a 6 volt system. The resistor drops the battery voltage from 12 volts to 6 for the coil. Lets start at the battery (like you said pos ground). The negative terminal can go right to the ignition switch. From the switch through the resistor and on to the coil (-) side. The other side of the coil (+) probably goes to the distributor points.

You could replace the coil with a 12 volt coil and eliminate the resistor in the circuit.

The lights might still be 6 volt bulbs, so make sure before you hook them up. If so, it might be easier to install new 12 volt bulbs in their place.


Mark

[jdemaris]

. . . I have found that the coil is labeled 6 Volt I don't understand that either seeing that its a 12 volt positive ground setup!

I don't agree with Pammark's idea of using a 12 volt coil. 1010s need a 6 volt coil run at full 12-volt-system voltage when cranking - which is around 9 - 10 volts. A 12 volt coil won't work near as well .

There is no such thing as a 6 volt coil or a 12 volt coil. Anybody can call any coil whatever they like. So, not all 6 volt and not all 12 volt coils are the same.

Now, with the Deere 1010 and 2010s - they need more coil voltage that many other gas engines to start in cold weather. For that reason, Deere used the same part # 6 volt coil that was used in early two-cylinder tractors with 6 volt systems. This 6 volt coil has more voltage potential than some other 6 volt coils. You are better off sticking with the right coil - and NOT jerking around with a generic 12 volt coil. When you crank a tractor with a 12 volt system and battery - voltage drops to 9-10 volts. A 6 volt tractor drops to 4.5 - 5 volts. The original 1010 setup uses a very hot 6 volt coil - that gets run on full voltage when cranking. The original ignition resistor was built into the key-switch and so was the cranking-resistor-bypass. Later, when those switches became unavailable, Deere sold update kits with a new switch and a new separate resistor.
If you have a Deere switch now - and not aftermarket - it will have a full-time ignition terminal, and also a cranking-bypass terminal. One connects to the fore side of the resistor, and one connects to the after-side of the resistor. Also, if you happen to have a Delco starter and not Prestolite - you can ignore the bypass built into the switch and use the "R" terminal on the starter-solenoid instead. Deere did not do this - since many 1010s and 2010s had Prestolite starters that lacked the "R" terminal.

[RANDY Fay]

If this is a deere switch (or any other switch) it should have -ing-marked at bottom of post this is where it should hook last I knew Deere still made switch kits for these # AR26528R switch kit -- resistor--wire between switch and resistor--and key switch They used 6 volt coils--start on 12--run on 6 have fun Randy