fuel pump pressure

[jb660r]

My 2010 smokes a lot, and smells super rich. It starts hard too with alot of smoke. I do know there could be all kinds of other issues that could be the culprit but this seems to be too much fuel. There are 2 plastic caps that cover 2 set screw/lock nuts on the pump. Are these what I would need to adjust for the pressure? I did turn the set screw toward the front of the pump and it made it smoke alot less, but also made some deisel clatter, but I put it back to where it was until I got some advice.I have read about adjusting the timing too, and from what I read, you turn the pump like a car distributer? I could use some good directions.

[jdemaris]

My 2010 smokes a lot, and smells super rich. It starts hard too with alot of smoke. I do know there could be all kinds of other issues that could be the culprit but this seems to be too much fuel. There are 2 plastic caps that cover 2 set screw/lock nuts on the pump. Are these what I would need to adjust for the pressure? I did turn the set screw toward the front of the pump and it made it smoke alot less, but also made some deisel clatter, but I put it back to where it was until I got some advice.I have read about adjusting the timing too, and from what I read, you turn the pump like a car distributer? I could use some good directions.

There are no screws or adjustments anywhere inside or outside the pump to adjust pressure. Pressure is determined by the fuel injectors.

There IS a screw inside the pump that adjusts the maximum rate of how much fuel it can pump. It's hidden inside, not outside where you can see it. If you have a plastic cap on a set screw - it's either for a governor-speed adjustment or for the automatic timing advance.

[jb660r]

There are 2 of them with the caps on them. So are these something that I can find info on adjusting? I have a manual but it doesnt say anything about them. If there is a procedure could you point me in the right direction?

[Tigerhaze]

JB660r-

Are you sure the issue isn't bad injector tip or tips rather than the pump? My understanding is if those tips get clogged they can cause a dribble of fuel rather than a good spray which seems to me could cause some of the issues you are seeing.

My 2010 diesel smokes a lot too both during startup and when running- part of the reason I believe is the rings are worn. Is the smoke blue or black? Even when in good shape, they snort some black smoke when under load. The 2010s are also notoriously hard starters when worn- the key is to make sure the glow plugs work and use them routinely. The primer (if equipped) also helps starting and the HLR has a disconnect lever which allows the engine to turn over faster, aiding starting. I also found on my 2010 that putting in a rebuilt starter helped a lot by turning the engine over more quickly. If you search the archives on this board for any or all of those topics, you will find a lot of good information.

If you want to work on the pump I would suggest reading JD manual SM-2045. it goes through the theory of pump operation, pump configurations, and servicing/adjustments. You can buy the manual from Deere or you may get lucky and find a file sharing site with it for free. there are a number of posts in the archives talking about the DB pumps.

FYI, you should trust what Jdemaris is telling you- he is a former Deere mechanic that is as close to an expert as you will find online for these injection pumps.

[jb660r]

I think the injectors are part of the issue, maybe most. The adj. screws were just something I noticed and played around with the one. They look like they have been messed with fairly recently, and the last owner did alot of adjusting, on alot of things. When I got it I read the manual I have and started going over everything I could. I am not a diesel mechanic, I only work on mx bikes, but I also have worked as a Millwright so anything mechanical is right up my alley.
Back to the topic, since I do believe they have neen moved before (99%sure) I just was looking to find out the right way to set it to where it should be after I found out they are not for adj pressure. Ill see of I can get a manual and go from there. That is far from the worst thing I meed to get back in shape. Thanks for the help guys.

[Tigerhaze]

The SM-2045 manual will tell you a lot about adjustments that the 2010 service manual does not.

You can also read a number of posts in the archives about DB pumps. I know that setting advance has been discussed on this board- in some ways it is like adjusting a distributor but you need to have a timing window to see the marks or adjust using other, more complicated and expensive methods.

if you search all for the keywords " injection pump" and author "jdemaris" you will find many of the informative relevant posts. You will have a DB pump rather than a CBC or CDC pump, so make sure you are reading about the right model.

[jdemaris]

There are 2 of them with the caps on them. So are these something that I can find info on adjusting? I have a manual but it doesnt say anything about them. If there is a procedure could you point me in the right direction?

The two plastic caps go on the auto-advance adjuster screw and the torque screw. To be technical, the auto-advance trimmer screw DOES adjust low fuel pressure to make the timing advance correctly. It has nothing to do with injection pressure though. The "injection pump" is actually two pumps inside one container. A high pressure piston pump and a low pressure rotary vane pump.

Get the Deere/Stanadyne pump manual free at this link. When there, click on "IP.pdf" to download. It's 214 megabytes. Do some reading.

http://www.getdieselpower.com/misc/trac ... IP_Manual/

[jb660r]

Got it, thanks. Great forum by the way. It is a little different asking all the questions when I'm usually the one who answers them about comparatively tiny engines.