starting 2010 deisel

[big dan]

went over to load my 210 on the trailer for the 5th time in 40to50degres it starts right up with just a shot of starting fluid today qurter of a can not evan a offer, its 20 degres out sidedidnt want to use to mutch so how mutch is too mutch . I dont think my glow plugs work because the starter is in a botton and the key switch is dissconnected

on a nother note my wench is missing the left cover but in looking it has 4 hyd. lines going to it also pto. and a hyd. controle on the fender not the arm up by the seat like the repair man. shoes any idea what it is for a wench.

thanks again Big Dan

ps still snowing

[Mark Birdeau]

There is a lot of controversy over how much starting fluid is to much, I woud say a quarter can and not even any firing that is to much and there is some thing wrong. Also if you have glow plugs and if they may work at all you never want to use starting fluid. Mark:

[townlineterry]

If you are getting fuel to the cylinders about the only thing that will keep a deisel from starting is lack of compression. Starting fluid should be used very sparingly. My geuss is you have broken rings, c common result of useing too much fluid. Hate to say but you are probably looking at a rebuild.


Terry

[PML]

Hey Dan, My 2010 is like the 7.3 liter ford motors, If the glowplugs don't work it is a pain to start.It is a lot easier to fix the glowplugs than ether locking or burning the starter up. You can check the compression but mine has excellent compression and still is B to start PL

[jdemaris]

20 degres out sidedidnt want to use to mutch so how mutch is too mutch . I dont think my glow plugs work because the starter is in a botton and the key switch is dissconnected

You shouldn't be using ether on any indirect injected engine. 1010s and 2010s are the only indirect diesels Deere ever made (that I can recall).

That is especially true with direct ether spraying. With many Deere direct-injected diesels - Deere had cold-starting ether lines hooked up to the intake manifold - but there was a small jet at the end that limited how much ether could go in at one time.

Ether certainly will ruin an engine. With 2010s, beside breaking rings and pistons, it can crack heads and precombustion chambers.

A 2010 diesel - set up correctly - starts pretty good in cold weather. Absolutely needs the glow plugs, but also needs the fuel-primer plunger hooked up and working. That, because the Roosamaster/Stanadyne injection pump is the first rotary that Deere ever used and it's pretty crude. It does not pump enough fuel when cold for good starting; thus the reason why 2010s had fuel-primers that were hand-operated.

[big dan]

slow down guyes the head is not broke the compresion is good i was thinking my buddy had a 440 skidder it took almost a can of starting fluid every day all winter long.
i am not looking at what the book says looking to no how mutch outher 2010s use that are not sinning in side some barn ones that work for a living and the glow plugs may not be right.

[jdemaris]

slow down guyes the head is not broke the compresion is good i was thinking my buddy had a 440 skidder it took almost a can of starting fluid every day all winter long.
i am not looking at what the book says looking to no how mutch outher 2010s use that are not sinning in side some barn ones that work for a living and the glow plugs may not be right.

That old 440 skidder your friend had - probably doesn't have a top ring left in it - in one piece that is. I had to rebuild many, out in the middle of the woods. Early, non-turbo 440 skidders, as well as 350 crawlers, and non-turbo 450s self-destruct from over ether use. The turbo-versions have different pistons and much stronger Keystone ring that take a lot more abuse.

[Tigerhaze]

Hi Big Dan-

I also have a 2010 diesel, and I can admit that I have used ether in the past to start in cold weather even though it is not recommended at all for the 2010s because they have glow plugs. My glow plugs were non-functioning and my battery setup inadequate (too long and too small battery cables) to start easily.

My advice would be to get new glowplugs and see if ypur starting problem will go away, and if not also look at your battery cable setup. I have been limping along by excessive cranking coupled with very small amounts of ether (prior to getting new glowplugs), and my starter finally gave out. Lavoy has stated on here that 2010s are very hard to start in the cold (with or without ether) without functioning glowplugs.

Jdemaris, I have read about the cold starting fuel primer but my machine had been stripped of the plunger and plumbing before I came along (think there was also an engine swap with an ag engine from a 2010 wheel tractor or combine). Is the setup simply the plunger with two fuel lines to it or is there more to it? Are the plungers still available from Deere- I see them ocassionally on Ebay but otherwise haven't seen much on them. I didn't realize how critical they are to starting in cold weather.

[jdemaris]

Jdemaris, I have read about the cold starting fuel primer but my machine had been stripped of the plunger and plumbing before I came along (think there was also an engine swap with an ag engine from a 2010 wheel tractor or combine). Is the setup simply the plunger with two fuel lines to it or is there more to it? Are the plungers still available from Deere.

Deere still sells them new - but they cost over $500 just for the pump itself. Deere # AT15807. The setup uses a hand-push primer pump that squirts raw diesel into two ports in the intake manifold. Deere has a forumla for how many pumps you give it depending on how cold it is outside. They worked fine - just crude and expensive.

You can go to Deere parts online - and look the the entire setup. It shows all the OEM fittings, lines, plunger, etc.

No way would I pay $100, much less over $500. Seems it would be easier and cheaper to get one of the newer fuel-primer systems used in several tracors - e.g. some Fords, Sames, etc. Same uses a small fuel-reservoir hooked to an electric heater. When you push the electric primer button, it opens a valve and lets fuel enter little heater coils -then sends partially ignited fuel into the intake manifold. Works good and can be bought new for around $30. Keep in mind that with a 1010 or 2010, you don't need a fuel reservoir since the tank is gravity feed. There are basically two types of "intake manifold heaters" on modern farm tractors - dry and wet. Dry - like many Ford thermostarts and Allis Chalmers, MF, etc. just heat air in the intake manifold. But, there are also versions that you hook a fuel line to. When you energize -fuel gets half lit and sends the heated mixture into the intake.

[Lavoy]

John,
If you know the place to get those aftermarket starting aids like you described, let me know, I would like to try one on the 1010 I am working on right now.
Lavoy

[jdemaris]

John,
If you know the place to get those aftermarket starting aids like you described, let me know, I would like to try one on the 1010 I am working on right now.
Lavoy

Last one I bought cost around $30 -and I'm trying to remember where I got it. YT Tractors probably has them - but to search for it, you need to know the name it is called, or . . . the application. I know YT has the Ford "Thermostart version - but I'm pretty sure that's a dry verion - heat only, no fuel hooked to it. Alllis Chalmers used them, Massey Ferguson/Perkins, Same, Landini, and many other diesels - especially in Europe.

Look at this link to the Beru glow-plug site and you'll see a photo and decription of their version. Many companies make them, but they all have their own name for the things. That makes searching not-so-easy.
Beru calls their's the "Flame Start System." Their brief description reads:

"More and more commercial vehicles are being equipped with flame start systems to ease cold starting. Once the heating temperature has been reached, fuel enters the evaporator in the flame glow plug via a solenoid valve. In this way a flame is produced that heats the intake air and facilitates reliable, convenient and environmentally friendly cold starting, even at low temperatures. "

http://www.beru.com/english/produkte/gluehkerzen/gf.php

Ford "Thermostart" for sale many places like this - but it has NO fuel hookup:

http://www.ford-tractor-part.com/ford-t ... 9a436a.htm

https://www.allpartsstore.com/ItemDetl. ... C5NE9A436A

[Lavoy]

So they are not a retrofit type deal, they are only to replace a unit that came factory installed? I was thinking that someone made an aftermarket unit for installation in a tractor that did not have one to start with. Any idea if anyone makes something like that?
Lavoy

[shinnery]

Several of them look like you could just drill and tap the intake manafold and screw them in. I have been thinking of adapting a Cummins manafold heater like the Dodge pick-ups use for my Minnie-Moline diesel. One of these could be simpler to install and operate with a pushbutton or two. One suggestion I had seen was to pull the precleaner off and use a propane torch to heat the air in the manafold.
Bryce

[jdemaris]

So they are not a retrofit type deal, they are only to replace a unit that came factory installed? I was thinking that someone made an aftermarket unit for installation in a tractor that did not have one to start with. Any idea if anyone makes something like that?
Lavoy

You've got to drill and tap a place for it. I've done many - but not on a 1010/2010 diesel. I've probably worked on only one or two in past 20 years - and both still had the OEM primers. I have, however, added the little 'flame throwers" to several other IDI diesel tractors.

There are some amazingly complicated, and convoluted systems out there to accomplish the same task. The OEM hand-powered primer that Deere used on the 1010s and 2010s is about as simple as you can get. Problem is - the price now. There has to be a cheap alternative-replacement out there on something - all it is - is a plunger in a barrel with a check-valve. In fact, Harbor Freight sells a hand-powered piston pump for siphoning for $4 or $5 that would probably do the same job - but it's cheap junk. The primer-bulbs/fuel lines for outboard motors might even work - but again not exactly heavy duty.

The unitized electric-operated "flame thrower" is the next simplest. All it needs is 12 volts of power - with a lot of amps that requires a relay.
On most modern tractors - since fuel is NOT gravity fed- use requires a small fuel reservoir mounted higher than the "flame thrower" - so when energized, fuel gravity-feeds in. But, since the 1010 and 2010 both use gravity-feed - no reservoir needed.

[dlplost]

The 2010 Diesel NEEDS the glow plugs to start.
NEVER use Either on it or you WILL destroy the motor.
JD wants $100 each for the glow plugs, you can find the EXACT same glow plugs on ebay for $25 each.

The glow plugs are a slow heating type, per the manual...

warm engine = 30 seconds
above 32f = 1 minute
32f to 0f = 2 minutes
below 0f = 3 minutes


Fix yer glow plugs...