What parts should I have for steering clutch/brake rebuild?

[Ray III]

Took crawler out to plow snow, first time I pulled the lever to turn right it wouldn't go, so I pulled harder and snapped the brake band bolt. Brake band was shot anyways, and the clutch is weak on that side, so I want to refresh everything in there. The other side might have been gone through recently as it works pretty well.

I want to get this over with in a hurry without cluttering up the shop with non-paying work, so I want to have all the parts on hand and swap them in over a weekend. What are the parts that most commonly wear out in there? I've been in there to adjust the clutch and it doesn't look bad from what little I can see.

My list so far is:

Brake band (I assume it includes the bolt?)
Clutch fiber disks
Throwout bearing

[RANDY Fay]

you mean the crawler just stopped when you pulled right handle ?? I don't think bolt comes with break band and should have throwout bearing sleeve on hand just in case
if the crawler stopped when right lever was pulled left clutch is slipping
have fun Randy
O deere

[Lavoy]

As long as you are in there, I would replace the pressure plate as well. Check all the small springs to make sure they are not broken or rusty. Look over all the linkages for rust and sticking.
Lavoy

[Ray III]

I meant wouldn't turn right when I tugged on it. The clutch disengages, I used it like that anyways. I found out if you are under load it steers alright (due to the drag on the non-braking track), either going uphill or pushing snow or jamming the blade into the ground if you start aiming for a tree on a downslope.

How much is the pressure plate Lavoy? Do the clutch steel disks get messed up or are they usually reusable?

[Lavoy]

Pressure plate is $125, discs may or may not be bad. If they are rusty, weak or oil contaminated, replace them.
Lavoy

[pdmech08]

I agree with Lavoy. Replace the fiber discs if they're contaminated with oil and obviously if they're damaged. Steels can be blasted if they're not too bad, if pitted they should be replaced. Replace brake band if worn badly, oil contaminated or loose lining. The pressure plate can be reused if all the springs are intact. If rusty, it can be blasted. If pitted, replace it. Look carefully though, broken springs can sometimes be hard to see. For what it costs, I'd replace the throw out brg. whether it looks bad or not and by all means replace the seals. As a general rule, "If in doubt replace it" then you won't have as many question marks at the end of the job. Good luck. Steve

[Ray III]

Hi Steve, welcome to the forum. Whereabouts in NY are you?

Oil seals are another thing... I will get those, pressure plate, throwout bearing, clutch fibers, brake band.

Thanks for the input guys.

Lavoy, approx how much for these items? I'll send you an e-mail when I come up with the $$.

[Lavoy]

Ray,
Send me an e-mail with all the stuff you want, I will get a quote put together.
Lavoy

[pdmech08]

Ray: I am located just north of Syracuse in a town called Cicero.

[JD56420C]

Just a suggestion, for how much the linkage cost around 35 or 40 bucks replace them. Also I would not touch the clutches when under a heavy load, if you must turn under a heavy load lift the blade slightly then turn if you have to go back and clean up what you missed, well there will not be so much less stress on the one side or the other.

Good luck, save the old steel, George

[Gil]

Well it looks like among the group of us, we recommended that you replace just about everything that's in there.

But no one mentioned my favorite: the small brass bushing (#M1638T) that supports the steering lever. The first time I replaced one, I was amazed at how much tighter it made the linkage feel and how much easier it made my brake and clutch adjustments.

From then on, every time you pull the steering lever you will feel like you have tighter steering . For a couple of bucks and an easy install (just drive the old one out with a 5/8 socket turned backwards) you get a high reward for an awfully small investment.

Probably more emotional satisfaction than you will get from spending the rest of the money we suggested you put in there.

[Ray III]

I did not know there was a bushing. It does have some slop. This is why I like this site so much, there is only so much you can figure out from staring at the parts book.

[Lavoy]

Definitely replace the bushing, and take a look at the shaft, often they are as worn as the bushing itself.
Lavoy

[JdsGrz]

yes yes by all means take the time and replace the bushings in and out , if the shaft if worn and you have axcess to a lathe turn a sholder in the worn aera on the shaft AND SPIN OUT A TWO PIECE BUSHING THAT ROMOVES ALL THE PLAY, I ALLSO MADE A BUSHING FOR THE HANDLE AS WELL A LITTLE TRICKY FOR THE GROVE FOR THE BOLT AND KEY WAY, BUT TO ME ITS FUN TO LICK SOME OF THESE PROBLEMS , i ALSO DRILLED THE SHOLDER SO I CAN PUT A FEW DROPS OF BAR& CHAIN OIL IN THERE, A LITTLE WOOD PLUG KEEP IT CLEAN.. crawlers are where its at.. JD that is GREG

[Ray III]

I'd like a lathe for working on these things, that's for sure.