40 C steering clutch pack R&R.

General help and support for your Lindeman through 2010 John Deere crawler
User avatar
ohmgman
40C crawler
40C crawler
Posts: 17
Joined: Wed Oct 17, 2007 7:56 am

40 C steering clutch pack R&R.

Post by ohmgman » Sat Dec 22, 2007 2:53 pm

Gee....do ya think I will have to replace anything? These are the steering clutch parts from the left side of my 40 C.

Image

Image

Image

Guess NOW I know why it does not steer so well....huh.

mailtrain@usadatanet.net
MC crawler
MC crawler
Posts: 7
Joined: Tue Oct 23, 2007 8:29 pm
Location: Fine,N.Y.

sterring clutches

Post by mailtrain@usadatanet.net » Sat Dec 22, 2007 5:52 pm

HI ohmgman; I'm not the expert there are some post on here for the same thing you are asking. Most say clean the steel disc and replace the fiber. You have it apart that way you won't have to do it again.Bearing in pic looks rusty wouldn't hurt to change too. clean it up and make sure the rest is ok,before you button it back together. That is my opinion. Dean

User avatar
ohmgman
40C crawler
40C crawler
Posts: 17
Joined: Wed Oct 17, 2007 7:56 am

Post by ohmgman » Tue Dec 25, 2007 10:51 am

Pretty much everything you see in the images I will be replacing. There would be no way I would re-use any of that old rust crap. Need to find someone who can grind the inside of that flywheel...Or...I might try it myself if I can chuck it up in my lathe...

Looks like everything I need for the overhaul I can get right here.

User avatar
wwattson
1010 crawler
1010 crawler
Posts: 499
Joined: Mon Aug 07, 2006 9:12 pm
Location: West Bend, WI

Post by wwattson » Tue Dec 25, 2007 11:32 am

Lavoy has rebuilt pressure plates as well. I'd replace it all while you've got it apart. I know that it runs a few bucks but considering the pain level of pulling the final drives, it's worth it. Make sure you get a JD-7 gauge to properly set the pressure plate and I'd do the throwout bearing as well as it's apparent it was setting in water.
Bill Wattson

User avatar
NNAATZ
1010 crawler
1010 crawler
Posts: 296
Joined: Fri Oct 13, 2006 7:16 am
Location: austin,mn

Post by NNAATZ » Wed Dec 26, 2007 7:45 am

this looks like my 420 when i took it apart, replace everything it will be worth it. Lavoy told me just to sand blast the fly wheel, i did and put it back together worked great, i don't think it is good idea take any material off the bottom of that flywheel unless you can take the same off where the pressure plate sits. make sure you get the gage.
nick

User avatar
ohmgman
40C crawler
40C crawler
Posts: 17
Joined: Wed Oct 17, 2007 7:56 am

Post by ohmgman » Wed Dec 26, 2007 2:40 pm

NNAATZ wrote: i don't think it is good idea take any material off the bottom of that flywheel unless you can take the same off where the pressure plate sits. make sure you get the gage.
nick
Now, THERE is a thought! :wink:

I have had dealings with this kind of flywheel before. AND...I neglected to remove the same amount of material from the pp mounting surface as I removed from the friction surface. Thanks.

I will try blasting it up before removing any friction surface material. Right now...it is all sitting on the workbench...as I messed up my back working on it. I will be getting back on it as soon as I can "walk right"... again... Getting old sucks.

****Update. The flywheel "comes apart"... to "reveal" a somewhat flat friction surface. I am taking it out today for Blanchard grinding and it will NOT be necessary to ALSO remove material from the PP mounting area.



An image of the disassembled steering flywheel:
Image


Amazing the things you "learn" when you don't have your manuals (they are sitting in a desk 135 miles away.)....but are determined to do work on something. "Exploration mechanics" is a "fun" way to pass the time. No way I will be able to make all the adjustments from "intuition"...time to make a roadtrip to pick up my shop and parts manuals for this 40C.

User avatar
ohmgman
40C crawler
40C crawler
Posts: 17
Joined: Wed Oct 17, 2007 7:56 am

Post by ohmgman » Fri Dec 28, 2007 8:28 am

Now...anybody know how THIS comes apart? I can "feel" a bearing inside....and it "feels"...."rough." The bearing(s) must be "inside" of the LARGE "gear" or inside a "female" part of the other shaft, as the ends of the two splined shafts rotate independently of each other

Image

User avatar
NNAATZ
1010 crawler
1010 crawler
Posts: 296
Joined: Fri Oct 13, 2006 7:16 am
Location: austin,mn

Post by NNAATZ » Fri Dec 28, 2007 11:13 am

i could not get my flywheel to come apart, soooo..... it was sooner left alone.
and as far as the shaft and clutch hub comes apart......i don't remember, i would have to get the parts book out to help jogg the memory.
nick

User avatar
Lavoy
Site Admin
Site Admin
Posts: 10957
Joined: Sun Apr 03, 2005 8:32 pm
Location: North Dakota
Contact:

Post by Lavoy » Fri Dec 28, 2007 9:40 pm

There is a pilot bearing on a small stub shaft on the end of the large shaft. Try not to wiggle too much, you can break the stub off. If you can hold the long shaft with something so it is solid, carefully hit on the edge of the splined shaft with two hammers, 180 degrees apart, at exactly the same time and it should pop right off.
Lavoy

User avatar
ohmgman
40C crawler
40C crawler
Posts: 17
Joined: Wed Oct 17, 2007 7:56 am

Post by ohmgman » Tue Jan 22, 2008 9:52 am

I tried "splitting" the shaft as you suggested....and it came right appart. Thanks. I will be ordering the steering clutch/brake parts from you in the next couple of weeks.

User avatar
Lavoy
Site Admin
Site Admin
Posts: 10957
Joined: Sun Apr 03, 2005 8:32 pm
Location: North Dakota
Contact:

Post by Lavoy » Tue Jan 22, 2008 10:14 am

Glad it worked, I have really fought with some of them in the past, and even broke a couple of them in the process.
Lavoy

User avatar
ohmgman
40C crawler
40C crawler
Posts: 17
Joined: Wed Oct 17, 2007 7:56 am

Post by ohmgman » Thu May 29, 2008 4:58 pm

Lavoy, got the new steering clutch & Brake parts today, thanks.

Question: I took six fiber disks and five steel floaters out of the steering clutch. When I put the same number ...back in...it "looks" like there is room for another steel and one more fiber disk.

Image


One more of each in fact...seems...to fit OK...My repair manual calls for 6 fiber disks and five steels..

Image

When I set the pressure plate on top of the stack..(with the recomended number of steels and fiber disks...there is around a 1/4" gap between the face of the pp and the face of the top fiber disk.

Does all of this gap adjust out?

Image


I bolted everything together with the recommended # of fibers and steels and when I used the supplied Gage to set the pp fingers ....they got awfully low and there seems to be no pressure being applied to the clutch stack.

Image

User avatar
Lavoy
Site Admin
Site Admin
Posts: 10957
Joined: Sun Apr 03, 2005 8:32 pm
Location: North Dakota
Contact:

Post by Lavoy » Thu May 29, 2008 6:08 pm

You should replace your existing clutch with 7 fibers, and 6 steels. You are essentially replacing a 40 clutch with a 420 clutch. Unless I goofed up, that is what should have been in the kit. If not, let me know, I will get the rest on the way.
Lavoy

User avatar
ohmgman
40C crawler
40C crawler
Posts: 17
Joined: Wed Oct 17, 2007 7:56 am

Post by ohmgman » Thu May 29, 2008 7:40 pm

Yes....there are "extra" steels and fiber disks...so use them all? The diff between a 40 and a 420 clutch is extra disks?

NOW things look a little better....well ...OK!

User avatar
Lavoy
Site Admin
Site Admin
Posts: 10957
Joined: Sun Apr 03, 2005 8:32 pm
Location: North Dakota
Contact:

Post by Lavoy » Fri May 30, 2008 8:26 am

Yes, a 40 is an 11 plate clutch, 420 is 13 plate.
Lavoy

Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 32 guests