65' gas 350 woes

[ChrisMis]

I found out that I lost a valve on my 350. It needs to be dug into a bit deeper to see just how much damage has been done. I was told some part of it has fallen into the cylinder and could have mucked up a bunch of other things. I was also told the fix might not be worth the machine in the long run. In weighing options, I might be in the market for a few parts or possibly an engine if that is the way to go for parts. I know some of you out there are all over the parts thing so I'm looking for some leads.

Thanks,
Chris

[Lavoy]

Chris,
If the block is not damaged, I would rebuild your engine, then you know what you have. Rebuild parts for 350 are not expensive, when you have a better handle on what you want to do, let me know, and I can price you a rebuild kit.
Lavoy

[ChrisMis]

Boy Lavoy, you sound confident. Yes, I am looking to get this crawler going again for many reasons. Right now the guy I have going to do the work is getting a price for parts. Rocker arm shaft (hold down?), piston and rings, liner, oil pan and head gasket set. Also, the exhaust valve is going to be replaced. Is this a rebuild kit that you are talking about? It also has been talked about to do the other cylinders as well while it was all apart. Without the other cylinders being worked, he thinks parts will cost about $300 to $400. What do you think about this?
Thanks again.

[Lavoy]

I would never do just one cylinder, kind of a waste, they will not be in balance if there is much wear on the other cylinders. If you plan on owning the crawler for a while, do it right, then you are done. It is likely that you will never touch the engine again.
Lavoy

[jdemaris]

I found out that I lost a valve on my 350.

I don't want to make things sound easy - but when compared to a diesel, repairs ARE easier for your gas engine.

With the cylinder head - you can ignore valve-depth in head if you want. You cannot do that with a diesel, or it will start lousy. So, with a gas-engine on a budget - often all is needed is to reface the valves, grind and narrow the seats, replace any bad valves, maybe knurl the valve-guides, and install new valve-stem seals. Somebody with the tools can do that head in an hour. Now - if you want it perfect, and also want it more durable than original - the sky is the limit. New valves, seat areas machined to take hardened inserts, new valve guides, etc. The difference is often this. The former budget job might cost $100 and could last you for many years. The latter high-end job might cost you $400-$500 and will also last you many years - and also be less resistant to valve-seat recession caused by unleaded fuel. But, that doesn't mean much unless this machine is going to be used, hard and long.

As to the rest of the engine? You have no injection pump or injectors to worry about. Just stick some new sleeves and pistons in, along with new rod and main bearings. Check the oil-pump gears and regulator while you're at it. A good, inframe engine job take a day, start to finish (not including bench time for head work, carb work, etc.).

[ChrisMis]

Okay, parts list came in at $750. Both my mechanic and I thought that a bit high. So, I want to shop for parts and hopefully find a better deal:
- head gasket set, oil pan gasket and front and rear seals (or complete gasket set)
- one piston w/ rings and liner w/ o rings (or kit for the three)
- exhaust valve
- at least one "stand off" for rocker arm for the back piston

OR a complete rebuild kit for this 350.

If anyone is out there to help, I'd appreciate it.

Chris

[Lavoy]

Chris,
This is just a real quick and dirty estimate, but I am guessing about $100 more than that for what you listed except all 3 pistons and sleeves and complete gasket kit. I can firm it up more if you want, this was just the fastest one I could come up with.
Lavoy

[jdemaris]

Okay, parts list came in at $750. Both my mechanic and I thought that a bit high.

I'm not trying to spend your money for you - but . . . If you have an old 350 with the original single-seal sleeves, you'd be nuts NOT to replace all the sleeves with the upgraded parts. Deere had a problem with the early engines due to that one, single seal per sleeve. Later engines came new with three-seals per sleeve. Older engines get special upgraded sleeves that allow you to install three-seals on each sleeve. It was a big Deere improvement and the aftermarket sleeves are also upgraded. You cannot put three seals on an old original sleeve.

If your sleeves are still the original single-seal type, it is a disaster waiting to happen. Winds up ruining an engine. All it takes is your oil pan to get enough coolant leaked into it. Then one morning, you start the engine, and the oil-pump sucks in pure water (it separates overnight) - and then, your crank and bearings sieze.

[ChrisMis]

Thanks for the advice. I'm willing to do it right! I still need to see if I can get parts any cheaper (not to sound too much of a cheap skate). Do you have anyplace I can turn to here for these things?
Lavoy, did you have an option for me?

[Lavoy]

There is not going to be a significant difference no matter which of my vendors I get the kit from. I guess I am not sure how much cheaper you want to get a kit. No matter where you get one, they are not going to be a $500 deal unless there is something out there I don't know of.
Lavoy

[ChrisMis]

Okay, I shopped a bit and I hear you. I want to do all the cylinders so... My engine # is M41TF - 094884T. Where do I buy it and how? It's time.

[jdemaris]

Okay, I shopped a bit and I hear you. I want to do all the cylinders so... My engine # is M41TF - 094884T. Where do I buy it and how? It's time.

Goes like this when using engine serial numbers from the ID tag on the engine.

T20080 was the original sleeve before serial # 105997 - gas 350 and now reverts to AR52252

T32350 CYLINDER LINER for engine number # 105998 and up - gas 350