Sometimes I hate crawlers

[Lavoy]

John,
I did not get air by-passing when I pressuirzed one of the banjoes, I woud get a definite "pop" of air out of one of the other banjoes as the pump was turning, but never any sort of flow of air.
The reason I said $1000, is there is only one game in town here, and they are experts at charging. Not sure if I will take it there or not. I would like it done faster so didn't want to send it out and wait, but may have to do that.
There is another guy that does works on pumps that is very sharp and reasonable, but he is probably so busy he can not even look at the pump. Plus he is 60 miles from me, so I would have to drive out to his place to have him look at it.
Lavoy

[jdemaris]

John,
I did not get air by-passing when I pressuirzed one of the banjoes, I woud get a definite "pop" of air out of one of the other banjoes as the pump was turning, but never any sort of flow of air.

Going by that explanation, the pump probably does just have something stuck (assuming the inlet filter screen isn't plugged). It's quite likely all it needs is some time and $50 in parts. I'm not trying to make it sound simple - because nothing is simple when it is unknown. But . . . on the other hand, it is not complicated either. If you can take an engine, hydraulic pump, carburetor etc. apart - and get back together - then the injection pump should not be any more difficult as long as you have the proper information to go by.

I'll also add that the pump used in the 1010 is still basically current - and new pumps are still being made that are on the same format. Even though it is the first rotary injection pump that Deere ever used, very little has changed with the new ones. I say that to dispel any thoughts on it being "archaic" or "esoteric" when brought to a pump shop. It is the most common pump in the USA and parts are easy to get. Any decent shop can work on it. The 1010 pump made in 1960 is not very much different from brand new DB2 pumps being used on military Humvees with 6.5 diesels.

I'd be glad to tell you how to diagnose further - but only if you want to. Once you start taking it apart - many pump shops will raise the repair-price. That being said, you could have the pump entirely apart in an hour and then, know for sure - what you need. There is only one special tool needed - a six-tooth splined "Bristol" wrench. You can buy one for $10 or less.

I've attached this image so you can see where the one special screw is - and also the fuel inlet screen.

[Lavoy]

Sooner or later, I am going to have a spare pump to play with, but for now, time is more of a factor, and I will have to have someone else look at it. I still think something is plugged and just not letting the fuel down to the rest of the pump. If so, maybe they won't stick me too bad.
Another question, where can I get the timing window? I just as well have one on hand.
Lavoy

[wwattson]

John,

Didn't you say in a post back around end of September that you had bought a bunch of the timing windows for $4 each?

Bill

[jdemaris]

I still think something is plugged and just not letting the fuel down to the rest of the pump. If so, maybe they won't stick me too bad.
Another question, where can I get the timing window? I just as well have one on hand.
Lavoy

I think the main hurdle is finding a shop that is willing to actually repair a pump on an individual basis. The trend has been NOT to do it and only work on an exchange basis. What you want is someone willing to take your pump apart and just fix as needed.

My son and I have bought a lot of new-old-stock Stanadyne/Roosamaster tools from Thompson Diesel. If you look at this link, it will show their current inventory. Note that you pay 1/2 of the posted prices. I bought a bunch of those windows awhile back for $4 each. I see they've gone up a bit. Maybe I've been recommending too many people and they thinkting that some people actually want these tools? Anyway, still a good deal.
The DB and JDB window you want is Stanadyne # 13366 and the current price to anyone is 1/2 of $16.26 - i.e. $8.13. Inventory today says they have two left. The tool # 15499 is the special wrench you need. Last bunch I bought were $3.20 each. Looks like for now, they're out of them.

Also, the timing window for the obsolete CBC and CDC pumps is # 17180. That's something that's pretty rare and they have two in stock for $7.02 each.

And, they have the driveshaft seal compressor that is almost a "must have" for installing any DB or JDB pumps back on to Deere engines.
#13371 at $6.28 each and only two left. That's a steal.

Go to :


http://www.thompsondiesel.com/Stanadyne.htm


Wrench for taking out head-screw #15499
Adapter for test-port on DB2 pumps - for transferpump - #21900
Delivery valve retractor - #13383
DB and JDB timing window - #13366
DB umbrella seal compressor - #13371
CBC and CDC pump timing window - # 17180

[Stretch]

Lavoy, I don't know if this will help but there is a place down here that works on all of my stuff and does a good job at reasonable price. They are usually a quick turn around. Its Piedmont Diesel and their phone number is 704-983-6680. I also have a spare pump for my 2010 if that would be of any help. I don't know if they are the same.
Stretch

[jdemaris]

I also have a spare pump for my 2010 if that would be of any help. I don't know if they are the same.
Stretch

Some 2010 pumps can be readjusted and made to work on 1010s.

The model number on the pump tells the story as to what is inside of it. 1010 diesels use an injection pump with only only one size of internal pump-plungers. They are .29" diameter. 1010 injection pump model numbers are:

DBGVC429-1DH or DBGVC429-1J

The letters/numbers mean - DB style pump, "V" for vertical mount, and "4" for four cylinder, and "29" for a .29" diameter pump inside.
If you were hunting for spare pumps you could rob major parts from - you'd need .29" pumps.
Other Deere tractors that use same size pump as 1010 are - 3010, HA155-D powered 45combine, HA165-D powered 45 combine, and one version of a 2010 pump ( DBGVC429-4AJ)

2010 injection pumps are :

DBGVC431-1J or DBGVC429-4AJ

One model has the small 1010 sized pump-plungers, and the the uses larger .31" plungers.

If you were looking to rob major parts to fix a 2010 pump - the following use the same size:

440 skidder, 450 crawler, 480 forklift, 500 industrial tractor, Lanz 710, 2020, 2030 early, 2120, 2510, 2520, 3020, 45 combine (only certain versions), 3300 combine, 4400 combine, 880 windrower,4219 generator.

[Tigerhaze]

John- you're literally a gold mine of information on these pumps. Thank you for taking the time to post this information on here.

Update- I talked with Jim at Thompson Diesel who handles ordering of the Stanadyne parts and tools. Apparently others have been ordering the same tools as well because he asked if I knew "so and so" and was wondering exactly what was happening to have everyone make a rush on these tools.

Anyhow, I think I ordered the last DB sight glass (part 13366) and apparently the person who contacted him this morning before me ordered his last drive shaft seal tool (part 13371).

[Lavoy]

I made a road trip this morning and dropped the pump off at a guys place, might have it done tomorrow.
Lavoy

[jdemaris]

Update- I talked with Jim at Thompson Diesel who handles ordering of the Stanadyne parts and tools. Apparently others have been ordering the same tools as well because he asked if I knew "so and so" and was wondering exactly what was happening to have everyone make a rush on these tools.

That's kind of funny. I came across their "tool sale" about a year ago. At the time I'd been searching for a special test-fitting adapter for DB2 pumps that are used on Ford and Chevy pickup trucks. Local Stanadyne dealer told me it would be a special order and cost $80. It's a hard piece to make and a must-have if ever want to work on a GM 6.2/6.5, or a Ford-IH 6.9/7.3. Found it at Thompsons for $8 and was quite amazed. How can place sell for $8 and another for $80?? When I saw all the other tools for sale that work on Deere pumps - I was very tempted to buy the entire lot. Well, maybe I almost did. I bought a bunch and so did my son. Glad you're getting something - good deals are getting hard to find.

[Ray III]

I did. Today! 16'F in the barn and snow on the ground. Started her right up and yanked on the right steering lever. Forced it. Now right steering lever is as flaccid as... (I don't think I'll go there....)

Did that last year, guess you missed my post where I said if you pull on it and nothing happens, DON'T pull harder!