2-53 Diesel Rebuild Question

CAR · Post by **CAR** » Tue Dec 30, 2008 9:05 pm

I have got my 2-53 on the engine stand and have the fly wheel cover off and have removed the head.
Even though I have not measured it, the cam appears to have little if any wear on it. I want to replace the cylinder sleeves, rings, bearings and all seals and gaskets while I have it down. My questions is: Should I remove the cam and the balancer shaft, mic everything, regrind and replace bearings if needed or leave it alone. Everything seems good and tight with no slop or would you guys suggest while I'm there check it. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Craig

Pammark · Post by **Pammark** » Wed Dec 31, 2008 2:28 pm

If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

If the cam looks good, leave it alone. I guess you could take the pressure off it by adjusting (opening) the valve gap and looking for backlash.

You already mentioned the high-wear points like the rings, mains and rod bearings. You can mic the inside of the cylinder wall to see if it is out-of-round. Look at the top ridge. If it is minimal, the sleeves might be OK. It would be foolish to not use new gaskets. I use wet spray paint as a sealer for the head gasket. Just make sure not to plug any oil holes.

Mark

pcsaw · Post by **pcsaw** » Sat Jan 03, 2009 7:40 am

Mark do you have a small crawler now? Howard

pcsaw · Post by **pcsaw** » Sat Jan 03, 2009 7:46 am

Sorry I got the wrong Mark I thought you where Mark Thompson. Howard

CAR · Post by **CAR** » Sat Jan 03, 2009 9:05 am

Thanks Mark,
The crank is .002 out of round on the rod bearings and .0015 on the main bearings. I beleive this is outside of the tolerances set by GM. I did find out that the cam and balancer usally have very little wear even for it's age. So "If it ain't broke don't fix it." works there. When I removed the pistons, one had a broken oil ring so I'm guessing this could cause a lack in power and hard starting.

Craig

Pammark · Post by **Pammark** » Mon Jan 05, 2009 12:32 pm

A broke oil ring should not affect compression. There are normally 3-4 rings on the piston. The top ones have one split so they can be installed. You should install them so the split in the top ring does not set directly above the next ring split etc. Alternate the splits. The bottom ring is the oil ring and it is meant to squeegee the oil back down into the crankcase. The inside of the oil ring groove normally has holes to help drain into the center of the piston and down into the crankcase.

The oil ring is typically three parts. A top and bottom soild ring and a center spongy material of waffle design.

If you did indeed have a broken ring, the sharp broken edge might have scored the cylinder wall. You can feel an up and down scratch with your fingers. It this is the case, then replace the sleeve.

If the cylinder wall is smooth, then mic it for out-of-round. If OK and not much ridge at the top, then just a new set of rings are in order.

If you simply install new rings, take some fine emery cloth or cylinder honer and lightly scratch the surface of the cylinder wall to break up the glaze. The new rings will wear a new smooth surface to match their shape.

Have fun.

Mark

Post by **Lavoy** » Mon Jan 05, 2009 3:16 pm

Keep in mind that a 2-53 with S series pistons will not start to well no matter what the temp is. To really make them start well, you would need to install N series pistons and injectors.
Lavoy

CAR · Post by **CAR** » Wed Jan 07, 2009 11:48 am

Are the S series piston and injectors stock to the the 2-53 and the N series an upgrade and how do I tell which pistons I have in there now?

Craig

Post by **Lavoy** » Wed Jan 07, 2009 2:25 pm

S series is what the engine would have come with from the factory, the N series is an update. You can still buy the S series pistons, they are still used on the turboed engines, so you have to be sure of what you are getting. I would imagine there is a different in the wrist pin height between the two, but I do not know what the measurement would be.
Injectors should be stamped S or N and the size.
Lavoy

CAR · Post by **CAR** » Wed Jan 07, 2009 2:50 pm

Thanks for that Information, since I'm totally rebuilding the engine I will go ahead and upgrade to N series. I want it to start as easily as possible.

Craig

Post by **Lavoy** » Wed Jan 07, 2009 3:45 pm

Make sure you put N series injectors in at the same time, and if it has not been done, I would recommend having the updated blower seals installed.
Lavoy

CAR · Post by **CAR** » Wed Jan 07, 2009 9:29 pm

I will be sure and do all of that. You never know when the wife might want to take it for spin, so I want to make sure it'll crank up for her.

Craig

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