1010C loader to buy or not...

[Jason Z in MO]

Tigerhaze,

Thank you for your help and advice. I really appreciate everyone's time.

I was re-reading the thread and I wanted to make sure I didn't offend you with my comment about a crown on the road. I meant it to be an observation that you knew what you were doing. My brother has been working with dirt his whole life. He worked with me on my road and a few other projects. I will paraphrase his words. "Yeah gotta keep the crown in the road with ditches on boths sides or your road will be the ditch!"

Gil, I laughed my @#$ off! But you do make a good point how to remove the brush and save time and energy all at once. Good conservation of energy!

[Tigerhaze]

Here is the link for the combo blade I was talking about for loaders:

http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... php?t=3504

No offense taken at all about the crown on the driveway- if you saw the before and after pics (maybe I should post them) it would make more sense to everyone about how much water I get there. I did want people reading it to know why the heck I was wasting so much time on a driveway

I've been thinking about having a goat or two- it sure beats trying to bushhog in the timber!

[Jason Z in MO]

Thanks for the link. I remember seeing these pics during one of my searches. I also remember seeing a 4 in 1 bucket which is probably more practical and MUCH easier to switch back and forth! Drott I think is the name and I think Tigerhaze is looking for one.

I looked at the crawler loader today. This is a gas machine with SN# 51866 which I think is one of the last ones built. The serial # plate is perfect.

So first the good stuff. My first impression was it's very clean and straight. The machine is in very good original cosmetic condition. Nothing was bent, wrinked, or torn. The seat even looked original or at least original style. The loader is almost perfect. The teeth are worn and the cutting edge scalloped between the teeth but otherwise its not bent or broken. All the pins are tight and the wear plates on either side the grill are not worn down. The cylinder rams are clean no leaks and no pitting. The grill is straight and hood is near perfect. The electrical system seems to be working 100%. The engine runs smooth and looks like it has had a tune up recently. New wires, cap, coil, plugs. I brought my radiator pressure tester and the cooling systems held good solid pressure. When I first got there the ground underneath was dry and the belly pan had just a trace of oil. More about this later. The reverser worked fine. The rail height was exacly 3" for several of the links I measured. Both rails measured 23 5/8" across 4 links. The pin bushings were worn but could be rotated. The machine has triple grouser pads and 4 bolts per link. The grousers are about an 1/8" from the top of the bolt heads. The idlers and rollers are in good shape. Lifted the front end with the loader. Rock guards in place.

Now the bad stuff. The both steering clutches are stuck. I could feel some pressure against the levers; I assume the pressure plate springs. The left sprocket has 3 consecutive "troughs" with edges of the casting broken out. One of them doesn't have a solid pocket left. It will need to be replaced or repaired. The engine clutch seems very soft and engaged at the top end of the travel. The engine sounded weak yet smooth. A small amount of blowby. There was a rock pile which I asked him to see what it would do. He moved into it and killed the engine twice. The blowby REALLY BLEW! Lots of smoke! Then I noticed an oil leak from the bell housing. Looked like transmission/hydraulic fluid. A fast drip from a drain hole at the bottom of the bell housing casting. The owner didn't say much at this point.

My assessment is to make this machine usable it would need an engine rebuild (rings at least!) engine clutch, transmission seal, steering clutches, sprockets, and rail pins rotated.

Guess thats about it. I haven't decided what to do. I think he will come down a couple hundred but that still seems high for the work needed. If the machine was beat up I wouldn't even bother thinking about it but I haven't seen many farm tractors in this good original condition.

[Lavoy]

If it is a reverser crawler, there is no engine clutch, just a valve that splits the clutch packs. The don't act exactly like a regular clutch, so that could be your clutch pedal feel. Oil leak could be rear main, or reverser pump if it has a reverser. Complete rebuild on the engine will be pricey if you want all new, roughly $2000 for sleeve deck and pistons, so keep that in mind.
Lavoy

[Tigerhaze]

The other thing to keep in mind is the work for the steering clutches and undercarriage. While it sounds like a large portion of the undercarriage is in relatively good shape, the sprockets probably aren't going to last if you already have a pocket worn through. They will then start developing cracks down the pocket towards the center of the sprocket if you impact them hard enough. That was evident on my crawler loader as someone had to weld cracks in the sprocket in the past.

I believe used sprockets that are in decent shape are really tough to find for the 1010s- Lavoy or WWatson will know best. I don't believe new is available unless you get a Korean aftermarket- again others will know more than me. Lavoy has indicated in other posts that turning pins and bushings costs almost as much as just replacing due to the extra labor involved so if they are really worn on one side then you are probably looking at a replacement. However if only slightly ovaled, they could probably last you a while as-is.

The steering clutches probably got stuck if the crawler was left uncovered in the weather, and there is no foolproof way to unstick them without going in and replacing them. Parts for steering clutches are available from Lavoy or other locations- you may also need the brake band. To access the steering clutches, you have to split the tracks and remove the final drives. While you have the final drives out I think Lavoy or others would recommend you do the final drive bearings and seals.

I think you get the idea- while the crawler may be cosmetically in good shape, you are really talking about a project that will take quite a bit of your time and cash resources. The undercarriage/steering clutch parts will be another couple grand or two (for sprockets and steering clutches/brake bands) and another grand or two for the pins and bushings if needed. This if you don't break or find anything else needing repair while in there. Remember, even finding sprockets and pins/bushings is a tough proposition.

While we don't want to discourage you, we want you to be fully informed. it doesn't sound like you will be able to pick up this crawler and start using it right away.It just shows that Lavoy's adage is true- "There is no such thing as a cheap crawler". You may be a little better off finding a 350 dozer; while it would likely be more pricey initially, the parts are generally more available and cheaper in the long run. It just depends if you like having a relatively more uncommon 1010 crawler dozer and if you have the time/space/tools/cash to take on a project like this.

[Lavoy]

Good point, I spaced out on the sprockets. There are no new sprockets unless you find an NOS pair. Last ones on Ebay brought over $500/each. Only thing we can do now is re-rim the old ones, not a big deal. If the pins and bushings are bad, you will ruin any new sprocket rims you put on, so no sense to doing one without the other. If there is that much internal wear, turning the pins and bushings will shorten the track back up, but you will not take out the snake, and will not help derailing.
By the time you looks at pins and bushings, sprockets, and steering clutches, you are going to put a couple thousand minimum to get it up to snuff.
Lavoy

[Jason Z in MO]

Lavoy,

Thanks for the information. The forward/neutral/reverse lever is on the lower left corner of the dash. I assume this is a reverser. Which would explain the oil leak. It started after putting the machine under load against the rock pile. Perhaps he didn't have it fully engaged. I noticed the lever was a bit stiff. I'm sure glad he did the operating! The blowby was was really bad and after I spotted the oil leak... he didn't have much more to say. I kinda felt bad for him.

A friend of mine gave me a name of a company who works on tracks. They will remove the tracks and pads rotate the bushings and pins for $500 for both sides. Cheaper if I bring them just the rails. I didn't price new bushings which is probably the bigger cost. Same friend told me about a salvage yard with 1010 parts. I can get good used sprockets for $150 each. Sounds like the cheapest part of the whole deal! (Laughing at Lavoy's standing comment). Not forgetting his comment about running new parts against worn. The engine does sound like it needs a complete overhaul. $2000 is a big chuck to sink into a 4 cylinder 40hp engine. I also noticed and didn't mention earlier the engine had plenty of blowby after putting it under load but I never noticed it burning any oil from the exhaust. What would that indicate? Maybe more of a valve problem then rings?

Tigerhaze, based on the condition of the left sprocket I wouldn't spend the money to do any rail repairs without at least good used sprockets. For the steering clutches, you are right on track, the machine did sit out for about a year. You're also right about the parts and labor evaluation. I can't pay his asking price for all the work needed.

The way I look at it the tractor is unusable until everything gets fixed. Gotta fix the steering clutches so just as well replace the sprockets, seals, bearings and rebush the rails. Can't use the engine the way it is so it has to be rebuilt or replaced and the oil leak needs attention. While the engine is out. Want did I leave out. Well might as well open up the transmission and make sure there isn't any bearing issues!?

I'll keep looking... 350 you say??!?

[Tigerhaze]

Hi Jason-

The price you quote for pin and bushing turns is very, very reasonable.

The costs for new pins/bushings is just under a grand, if you can get them. I was basing the comparison on labor costs I have heard in the past, which apparently you have found a very reasonable place as it is much less than I have heard (about 1/2 to 1/4 of what I have heard).

I don't suppose you can post up or PM me with what company you talked to, since they would be more or less local to me?

The sprocket costs are also very reasonable for good used- the main crawler salvage yard I know of in MO is Zimmerman Tractor near Versailles. Do you know of another one? That would be helpful for me in the future.

My mention of a 350 is based on the fact that it is a Deere (if that is important to you), comparably sized-dozer or loader to the 1010, and and the next generation newer than the 1010. Parts are more available for a 350 than a 1010 and you wouldn't be stepping up greatly in size. There are pitfalls to the 350s as well-one of the links I posted up (by Jdemaris) goes through some of them if you decide to go that route. Also Jdemaris has mentioned in his opinion a 350 is underpowered as a loader.

Also realize that the starting price of a 350 is going to be approx. twice that of a 1010. If you opt for a 450, maybe triple, at least in MO (based on my searches in the past).