1010 trackframes

robk · Post by **robk** » Sun Mar 08, 2009 7:57 pm

My older 1010 almost walked off it's right track in some mud. The pins and rails are good on this machine so I was surprised. Turns out the casting that holds the trackframe to the round crossmember is all broken up, which apparently allows the trackframe to wander out of alignment with the drive sprocket. I'd call this casting "the trackframe mount". I don't completely understand how it works but it is what holds the trackframe on the machine and also serves as the base for the idler tensioner. Are these out there as junk or is the junk - well - junk? Can I fabricate one?

jdemaris · Post by **jdemaris** » Mon Mar 09, 2009 9:01 am

robk wrote:My older 1010 almost walked off it's right track in some mud. The pins and rails are good on this machine so I was surprised. Turns out the casting that holds the trackframe to the round crossmember is all broken up, which apparently allows the trackframe to wander out of alignment with the drive sprocket. I'd call this casting "the trackframe mount". I don't completely understand how it works but it is what holds the trackframe on the machine and also serves as the base for the idler tensioner. Are these out there as junk or is the junk - well - junk? Can I fabricate one?

I assume you ment the front mount that is bolted on? I've come across many 1010s with that mount loose and bolts that are siezed or broken. Not an easy fix. There are plenty of complete used track frames around. Problem is, most will have those same bolts stuck. Pretty hard to get apart without breaking. Last track frame I bought, I went to the salvage yard and brought my own torches. I spent a day trying to get those bolts loose and finally gave up and cut them off.

robk · Post by **robk** » Mon Mar 09, 2009 7:31 pm

No. I don't know the words for what I'm talking about. I don't know how the undercarriage works. What's busted is casting that hangs on a 2.75 inch diameter round crossmember right in front of the drive sprocket. The trackframe hangs on this casting and also serves as the base for the idler tensioner spring. This is the casting that's all broken up. I'll post some pictures.

Post by **Lavoy** » Mon Mar 09, 2009 8:24 pm

Rob,
If you can't weld up the broken part of the trackframe, you will likely need to replace that trackframe.
Lavoy

stmftr395 · Post by **stmftr395** » Tue Mar 10, 2009 8:48 am

Rob; I have a 61 1010c which i have been working on/restoring for some time. The piece you are describing, on my crawler is an intrical part of the track frame. Sounds like you will have to replace the frame.
On my crawler the holes which is slid over the round bar(track frame rear cross bar) are over size due to lack of maintenance. The crossbar ws also worn undersize where the track frame was in contact. I due not have easy acces to a line bore to clean up the track frame, but was able to build up the crossbar with weld and turn it down to match the oversized hole in the track frames. Will assemble soon. Hope all goes as planned? Mark

jdemaris · Post by **jdemaris** » Tue Mar 10, 2009 10:03 am

robk wrote:No. I don't know the words for what I'm talking about. I don't know how the undercarriage works. What's busted is casting that hangs on a 2.75 inch diameter round crossmember right in front of the drive sprocket. The trackframe hangs on this casting and also serves as the base for the idler tensioner spring. This is the casting that's all broken up. I'll post some pictures.

It's all a part of the track-frame, regardless if you've got trouble with the rear mounting area (where the round post goes into the hole) or the front mounted area where it is bolted. The track frame is one assembly, welded togehter and does not have separate parts unless you fabricate them.

robk · Post by **robk** » Wed Mar 11, 2009 9:29 am

Here's my Picasa picture address:
http://picasaweb.google.com/Rob.Kinnair ... meMounting#
I've forgotten how to post pictures in here. Bill Wattson! Call me willya?

I've posted pictures of the problem. I've also taken the trouble to read my manual about how the tensioner is supposed to work. I have a possible source for trackframe and driveline parts although it sounds like there's quite a yard up in jdemaris's neighborhood.

Mark, I'm impressed if you turned your round crossmember in a lathe; you must have a hell of a lathe!!!

You'll see where I replaced the saddle bolts on my other machine for the rear trackframe crossbar. To get broken bolts out, I made special tapered hex nuts which I was able to hold over the hole inwhich there was a broken bolt. The nut centered my stick welder over the top of the bolt so I wouldn't weld the whole mess to the forging it is supposed to support. Then I was able to turn the bolts out by hand. If you try this at home, make sure you have your ground clamped to the nut or right next to where you're striking the arc. If you don't, you'll spot weld your final drive gears together. I use reverse polarity for overhead welding.

Tigerhaze · Post by **Tigerhaze** » Wed Mar 11, 2009 10:25 am

I use a free third party photo sharing site (Photobucket.com) to host my pictures. I then post them here by using the image function and put the photo link between the brackets.

robk · Post by **robk** » Wed Mar 11, 2009 10:37 am

xxxxxxxxxxxx

stmftr395 · Post by **stmftr395** » Wed Mar 11, 2009 11:15 am

Rob; I do not have a lathe large enough to turn the cross member, but I have a friend who does. I was left in the shop he purchased. 6' bed. The ways are worn(out .001nearthe head). Not precision enough for crankshaft/engine work, but certainly close enough for the girl I run with(1010c). I will try to post some pictures this weekend. Mark

robk · Post by **robk** » Wed Mar 11, 2009 11:24 am

Mark you've given me a great idea. I do have an old Sebastian lathe with a workpiece rest in the form of an idler wheel attachment. In other words, I can clamp a big thing, in a four jaw chuck, that wouldn't normally fit THROUGH the headstock and rest it on this idler wheel attachment mounted out on the bed where the tailstock usually is. In the case of the crossbar, I could clamp the part where the split clamp usually is (right at the end) and just cut the built up weld in the 6 or 8 inches next to the chuck.

Did you use hard surface rod?

robk · Post by **robk** » Wed Mar 11, 2009 11:57 am

Here's a good rear trackframe mount. This is what it all should look like. You can see the round crossmember passing through the saddle with new capscrews in it. The capscrews thread into the other half of the saddle which is the front of the final drive case. You can also see the trackframe mounting casting is welded to the trackframe rails.

Here's my broken casting, a bad rear trackframe mount. This shows the split clamps on either side and messy attempts to weld the casting on the left side. The right side is gone, completely broken out. You can also see how this casting is welded to the trackframe, which is bent right below the round crossmember end (and clamp) on the left.

Tigerhaze · Post by **Tigerhaze** » Wed Mar 11, 2009 12:58 pm

Hi Robk-

I have put a new post in the "Messageboard Q&A and Announcements" forum to show you how to put up photos with a third party photosharing website like Photobucket. Feel free to take a look:

http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... 7534#17534

robk · Post by **robk** » Wed Mar 11, 2009 1:51 pm

Thx so much. I'm studying it. I did it once or twice in Show and Tell but I guess I had some other pic hosting site because I have to learn it all over again now.

robk · Post by **robk** » Wed Mar 11, 2009 2:04 pm

Taa-daa. It took hours of study and Tigerhaze's helpful email but I did it. By next week I will have forgotten it. Lavoy please, please delete these idiotic posts from me. Nobody wants to read this irrelevant junk.

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