Changing Tranny Seal In 420 Clutch Housing
- joeturner1977
- 430 crawler
- Posts: 53
- Joined: Tue Feb 17, 2009 11:59 am
- Location: central WI
Changing Tranny Seal In 420 Clutch Housing
I have my 420 undercarriage parts all done and ready to reassemble. Before I install the trackframes I thought it was a good idea to pull the finals. I have a tranny seal just starting to leak and want to change it.
I can't figure out how to separate the ball joints so I unscrewed the control arm (AM3893T) from the trowout bearing carrier. Ball joints look like they should separate, Do they???? (it would be easier)
Also, How do you get the bearing/seal retainer out (AM1721T)??? I removed the six bolts and it is still tight. Is it a press fit??? If so, why don't they have tapped holes for push off bolts??? Am I missing something???
I can't figure out how to separate the ball joints so I unscrewed the control arm (AM3893T) from the trowout bearing carrier. Ball joints look like they should separate, Do they???? (it would be easier)
Also, How do you get the bearing/seal retainer out (AM1721T)??? I removed the six bolts and it is still tight. Is it a press fit??? If so, why don't they have tapped holes for push off bolts??? Am I missing something???
-Joe
1958 420c w/mc60 blade
1958 420c w/mc60 blade
- joeturner1977
- 430 crawler
- Posts: 53
- Joined: Tue Feb 17, 2009 11:59 am
- Location: central WI
- joeturner1977
- 430 crawler
- Posts: 53
- Joined: Tue Feb 17, 2009 11:59 am
- Location: central WI
O.k., That leads me to my next question...That piece is for making an adjustment, What does that adjust? What specs do I hold when assembling??? (sorry, I do not have the service manual) Is there a measurement???
I got the quill out. The 6-hole bolt pattern is drilled to .395" dia holes (clearence for 3/8"bolts). So I took a 7/16"-20 threads per inch tap (fine thread) and tapped the 3-of the holes and was able to "jack" the quill out using 3-bolts. Works really good!!!
I got the quill out. The 6-hole bolt pattern is drilled to .395" dia holes (clearence for 3/8"bolts). So I took a 7/16"-20 threads per inch tap (fine thread) and tapped the 3-of the holes and was able to "jack" the quill out using 3-bolts. Works really good!!!
-Joe
1958 420c w/mc60 blade
1958 420c w/mc60 blade
It is not covered in the service manual, should be, but isn't.
Once reassembled on the crawler, pull the steering lever and look at the throwout bearing. It should start moving outward the instant the lever is pulled. What happens over time is everything wears, and you end up pulling the steering lever back further before the throwout bearing moves out. This make is more difficult to adjust the steering clutches as the first part of the lever travel is wasted.
Lavoy
Once reassembled on the crawler, pull the steering lever and look at the throwout bearing. It should start moving outward the instant the lever is pulled. What happens over time is everything wears, and you end up pulling the steering lever back further before the throwout bearing moves out. This make is more difficult to adjust the steering clutches as the first part of the lever travel is wasted.
Lavoy
- joeturner1977
- 430 crawler
- Posts: 53
- Joined: Tue Feb 17, 2009 11:59 am
- Location: central WI
Thanks Lavoy,
That makes sense. I have noticed the throwout bearing on the other side moves away from the pressure plate before it comes out. Now after you tell me that, and I have taken one side apart, it all makes sense. Instead of some fancy cam setup, the balls are just simple mechanincs.
This site is awesome!!!!!
That makes sense. I have noticed the throwout bearing on the other side moves away from the pressure plate before it comes out. Now after you tell me that, and I have taken one side apart, it all makes sense. Instead of some fancy cam setup, the balls are just simple mechanincs.
This site is awesome!!!!!
-Joe
1958 420c w/mc60 blade
1958 420c w/mc60 blade
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 32 guests