New noise
- Matt Bunten
- 40C crawler
- Posts: 15
- Joined: Mon Jan 26, 2009 5:23 am
- Location: New Hampshire
New noise
Hi guys,
Yesterday I changed the engine oil in my 350, along with the reverser fluid. Once I completed this, I started the dozer, and noticed a loud knocking noise while the enging was rolling over. The noise stops when the engine catches and it seems to run fine and push with no problem. There is a slight rattle when it shuts down as well, but that's been there since I've owned it. I ran it a bunch this winter, and don't ever recall hearing that noise. Any thoughts??
Thanks,
Matt
Yesterday I changed the engine oil in my 350, along with the reverser fluid. Once I completed this, I started the dozer, and noticed a loud knocking noise while the enging was rolling over. The noise stops when the engine catches and it seems to run fine and push with no problem. There is a slight rattle when it shuts down as well, but that's been there since I've owned it. I ran it a bunch this winter, and don't ever recall hearing that noise. Any thoughts??
Thanks,
Matt
JD 4410, 430 Loader, Norse 290 winch, 1970 JD 350 diesel 6 way
Re: New noise
Yes, it's a common problem area in all 350s up through the Cs, except for the first 350s. Torsional isolator asssembly on the flywheel that drives your reverser. Gets loose and evtually flys apart and locks up the engine. It was finally elimated by Deere with an upgrade that is backwards compatible - but requires buying a new flywheel.Matt Bunten wrote:Hi guys,
noticed a loud knocking noise while the enging was rolling over. The noise stops when the engine catches and it seems to run fine and push with no problem. There is a slight rattle when it shuts down as well, but that's been there since I've owned it. I ran it a bunch this winter, and don't ever recall hearing that noise. Any thoughts??
Thanks,
Matt
- Matt Bunten
- 40C crawler
- Posts: 15
- Joined: Mon Jan 26, 2009 5:23 am
- Location: New Hampshire
jdemaris,
I'm assuming by early 350, you mean before they were equipped with reversers? There is some question as to the year of mine. According to the serial # tag near the seat, Nortrax says it is a '68, but some of the posts I have seen here put it as a '70. I hate to even ask this question, but what would you ballpark one of the upgraded flywheels prices at? Just wondering how much overtime I'll have to work for that one
Matt
I'm assuming by early 350, you mean before they were equipped with reversers? There is some question as to the year of mine. According to the serial # tag near the seat, Nortrax says it is a '68, but some of the posts I have seen here put it as a '70. I hate to even ask this question, but what would you ballpark one of the upgraded flywheels prices at? Just wondering how much overtime I'll have to work for that one

Matt
JD 4410, 430 Loader, Norse 290 winch, 1970 JD 350 diesel 6 way
Matt,
I just split my 350 because it was making noise like that on shutdown. I put new springs in the isolator, and turned the deals they hook to around so there is a new wear surface. I should have replaced them too, but was in a hurry with the flood concerns, so did not want to wait. This greatly reduced the knocking noise to a slight rattle on shutdown.
I think the conversion John is talking about is close to $2000, but I am not sure.
Lavoy
I just split my 350 because it was making noise like that on shutdown. I put new springs in the isolator, and turned the deals they hook to around so there is a new wear surface. I should have replaced them too, but was in a hurry with the flood concerns, so did not want to wait. This greatly reduced the knocking noise to a slight rattle on shutdown.
I think the conversion John is talking about is close to $2000, but I am not sure.
Lavoy
No, early 350s with reversers had a conventional single spring-dampened clutch disk instead of the isolator, just like the previous 1010s used. Then got changed and stayed that way until the end of the C series. When changed, a central fiber lined center late with anchors, outside anchors, posts, clips, and springs makes up the new assembly, along with driven-in stop pins in the flywheel that usally get hammered something awful.Matt Bunten wrote:jdemaris,
I'm assuming by early 350, you mean before they were equipped with reversers? There is some question as to the year of mine. According to the serial # tag near the seat, Nortrax says it is a '68, but some of the posts I have seen here put it as a '70. I hate to even ask this question, but what would you ballpark one of the upgraded flywheels prices at? Just wondering how much overtime I'll have to work for that one![]()
Matt
It was our #1 repair job for 350s and we had to fix many out in the field or woods. We also had several brand news one sieze up before they left the dealership when the C series first came out.
Parts are expensive no matter what you do. And, you really need to be careful when putting together. Biggest problem is - Deere did not put anything on the flywheel to hold the spring anchor clips in place. Centrifugal force and make them move out of whack and catch on the clutch-transmission housing. Then, it comes apart, engine siezes, etc.
We always used !00% new parts when fixing, mainly because every part would show wear, and they barely stayed together with new parts. But, these were machines being used, all day, every day.
I found that even with very low hours, almost new machines, the fiber lining was just about always torn off the isolator center plate. Poor bonding, I guess.
For a part time machine - I assume there are some work-arounds. Keep the rate-of-shift screw set so the shifts aren't real hard and it might last a bit longer.
When new, a reverser is supposed to give a firm but not jerky shift at full throttle, with gear trans in second, forward to reverse, or vice-versa. Full throttle, and not touching the clutch pedal.
Any help would be greatly appricated, we just got this 350c and it ONLY clunks when running, NOT on shut down. This has me puzzled because all the posts only seem to say that it happens on shut down...? Also I am a little confused on the upgrade kit for the isolator, is the system they used in the 350d's and better or would we be wasting our time to change it over and should just replace the parts?
Hi-
I can't speak to your first question, but I know another post on here addressed your second (about whether the conversion is worth it). My recollection is that everyone agreed that if you can afford the conversion, it is well worth doing because it eliminates the chance that a spring could hang up later and damage the isolator again. You may want to search for those posts- this is a topic that comes up frequently.
I can't speak to your first question, but I know another post on here addressed your second (about whether the conversion is worth it). My recollection is that everyone agreed that if you can afford the conversion, it is well worth doing because it eliminates the chance that a spring could hang up later and damage the isolator again. You may want to search for those posts- this is a topic that comes up frequently.
(1) JD Straight 450 crawler dozer with manual outside blade; (2) JD 2010 diesel crawler loaders; (1) JD 2010 diesel dozer with hydraulic 6-way blade; (2) Model 50 backhoe attachments, misc. other construction equipment
The later version and the up grade kit are bullet proof I recommend to upgrade if at all possible .I had a 350Cwidetrack that tore drive units out weekly till we installed the upgrade .It has several thousand hours on it now one of my friends has it and it was a great upgrade to sell when I traded up to a 359D with that drive stock and now you just point your Deere to the work nothing is going to explode or fall apart under load like before.If you hear a clunk when running check the drive train for lose components .That can some times be a 350 series problem as a lot of those old Deeres were used as D8s instead of 350s and this has buggered many a little 350 drive trains .Digitup.
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- 1010 crawler
- Posts: 301
- Joined: Tue Oct 02, 2007 1:08 pm
- Location: rhode island
I agree digitup,the upgrade really is the only way to go,yes it is not cheap but once you do iit the machine is all set for years of use.
I too have seen people try to make a 350 dig ponds,root stumps,push boulders twice their size.
I know of a guy pushing blasted ledge around with a 350 6-way....tore that little dozer to scrap in about 2 years.
another guy uses one for finish work around new house foundations,he loves the machine so much and it works so well,he just repairs and maintains it and says he won't ever get rid of it.
I too have seen people try to make a 350 dig ponds,root stumps,push boulders twice their size.
I know of a guy pushing blasted ledge around with a 350 6-way....tore that little dozer to scrap in about 2 years.
another guy uses one for finish work around new house foundations,he loves the machine so much and it works so well,he just repairs and maintains it and says he won't ever get rid of it.
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