brand spankin new jd 555a owner to be needs help/advice
brand spankin new jd 555a owner to be needs help/advice
Hi guys, love all the conversations on the site
Maybe you can give me some help. I am preparing to buy a JD 555a 78 model with about 7k hours on it. One owner and appears to be in pretty good shape for age/years.
Can anyone tell me -- other than looking at the uc, the wear bars on the bucket, the small amt of blowby and no black smoke when it's idling... how the heck else do I see whether this baby is headed for a major repair?
I've called a couple of places trying to find a mechanic to go look at it with me but have struck out (also trying to find someone local that can work on the machine for me - any ideas on finding that rare breed?).
I keep reading about hot transmissions in these models but I can't seem to find out anything about that - such as, since I'll be a casual user will I avoid trouble by only working it a few hours at a time? can a hot transmission be fixed?
what is likely to be my most expensive repair? i keep hearing a drivetrain?
and just for curiosity sake, how much did this sell for new? am I overpaying at 14k now?
I know there are a lot of question but this is my first machine and my very first post to jdc. My daddy drove all the construction machines and I was a daddy's girl that loved to ride in the bucket or on his lap when he was driving. Being female (yippee), when I go to an earthmoving facility to try to learn things I sort of get brushed off. I am in NC and would love to get any help possible.
Maybe you can give me some help. I am preparing to buy a JD 555a 78 model with about 7k hours on it. One owner and appears to be in pretty good shape for age/years.
Can anyone tell me -- other than looking at the uc, the wear bars on the bucket, the small amt of blowby and no black smoke when it's idling... how the heck else do I see whether this baby is headed for a major repair?
I've called a couple of places trying to find a mechanic to go look at it with me but have struck out (also trying to find someone local that can work on the machine for me - any ideas on finding that rare breed?).
I keep reading about hot transmissions in these models but I can't seem to find out anything about that - such as, since I'll be a casual user will I avoid trouble by only working it a few hours at a time? can a hot transmission be fixed?
what is likely to be my most expensive repair? i keep hearing a drivetrain?
and just for curiosity sake, how much did this sell for new? am I overpaying at 14k now?
I know there are a lot of question but this is my first machine and my very first post to jdc. My daddy drove all the construction machines and I was a daddy's girl that loved to ride in the bucket or on his lap when he was driving. Being female (yippee), when I go to an earthmoving facility to try to learn things I sort of get brushed off. I am in NC and would love to get any help possible.
- joeturner1977
- 430 crawler
- Posts: 53
- Joined: Tue Feb 17, 2009 11:59 am
- Location: central WI
Maybe this will help you some...
http://www.tpaktopc.net/files/undrcarguide.pdf
http://www.crawlerheaven.com/wearlimits.htm
http://www.crawlerheaven.com/tracklinks.htm
http://www.crawlerheaven.com/tracklinks_chart.htm
I know there is a lot to read, but I found this info very helpful.
http://www.tpaktopc.net/files/undrcarguide.pdf
http://www.crawlerheaven.com/wearlimits.htm
http://www.crawlerheaven.com/tracklinks.htm
http://www.crawlerheaven.com/tracklinks_chart.htm
I know there is a lot to read, but I found this info very helpful.
-Joe
1958 420c w/mc60 blade
1958 420c w/mc60 blade
-
- 1010 crawler
- Posts: 301
- Joined: Tue Oct 02, 2007 1:08 pm
- Location: rhode island
555
welcome to the site,the 555 series to me is great machine that will run a long time as long as it was taken care of.
if your not comfortable checking the machine out for problems,you should find someone that is able to do it.
fliud and filter changes are what make the difference,radiators and coolers air flow not blocked too.
most if not all problems with the "hot transmissions" are caused by lack of maintenance and service.
if your not comfortable checking the machine out for problems,you should find someone that is able to do it.
fliud and filter changes are what make the difference,radiators and coolers air flow not blocked too.
most if not all problems with the "hot transmissions" are caused by lack of maintenance and service.
Are you one of the lucky ones to have a transmission pressure gauge on the dash .Some of the 550s and 555s series had no gauge on board heck most didn't even have a tachometer on board .This is what I like to see them start like with a torque converter drive .With a cold machine start up watching the gauge.It should as engine starts at an Idle rise fast and completely go to green on the gauge .As it warms up it should stay in green at an idle but not be as high as at first now remember the gauge that Deere uses is not the most accurate gauge ever installed in a John Deere dash as far as I am concerned so don't panic if it is giving you slightly lower than normal or slightly higher than normal pressure readings .As you put this old Deere to work remember to watch that gauge with one eye on direction changes [F R] you should have a small fluctuation and on range shifts[123] there will be a bit larger fluctuation .I have never quite figured this out but that is just the way these old Deeres run and I have had a few of them .They are good machines if you keep good clean oil and regular filter changes to the transmission it will last a long time .I have a 555 A loader I am working on in my spare time that a previous owner tore the final drive bearings out of in a stupid move .While torquing the hell out of it in low and on good going with lots of traction they will push the bearings right out of them selves.He isn't the first one to do that and it is the weak spot in the drive train on 555-555As & 555Bs other than that they are a tough loader .Digitup.
thanks for the gauge advice. I haven't gotten the machine yet and of course, I don't know if there is a gauge, but I am crossing my fingers now that there are plenty of gauges.
Torquing up w/good traction to damage the bearings is basically saying the machine was lifting/pushing/working harder than it should have been asked to? How in the world will a newbie know what is too much?
yes, I will probably be so cautious the first few months but after that .,,,
Torquing up w/good traction to damage the bearings is basically saying the machine was lifting/pushing/working harder than it should have been asked to? How in the world will a newbie know what is too much?
yes, I will probably be so cautious the first few months but after that .,,,

It takes a lot of stupidity and beating to do that with a torque converter machine you will find it a lot smother than a direct drive 455 loader so don't worry about too much over abuse those machines can take just about anything . If it is a 550A it should have a trans pressure gauge .Try to be the first one on it to start it cold and watch how the pressure builds up.I buy and sell D8-D9 Cats and 21 Allis's with drainage plows on them both are torque converter drive like the 555A .I show up several hours early than I tell them I will and make sure the engine is cold .I check oil and coolant cold then I get in the seat before it ever starts just to watch the transmission pressure and engine oil pressure from cold on those gauge's I can soon tell how good the transmission and engine are on those old dozers and it is the same across the industry no matter what make it is A power shift transmission needs internal oil pressure.Remember those aren't as accurate a trany pressure gauge as Deere should have installed and what you want to see is to start in the green and stay in the green all day is best .Good Luck.Digitup.
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