John Deere 1010 carb issues.

[dustin]

Howdy... my 1010 dozer started dogging down and barely running.. now it wont even run. I noticed that after turning it over even 2 times, gas pours out of the intake side of the carb. Would this be the float being stuck possibly?

It ran sooo good the first 8 hours I used the machine, now I have about 40~ hours of work on this beast. Doh!
Dustin

[snickers]

Dustin,

there are a couple of possibilities here, one you have debris in the needle and seat, a build up of shellac, or a bad float. you should be able to pull the float bowl on the carb and inspect/ clean the parts. you can check the float by floating it in some fuel, there shouldn't be any liquid inside the float (give it a shake and see if there is anything inside). otherwise give it a good cleaning and reassemble, you might blow out the fuel line and check to make sure the sediment bowl is clean as well.

Snickers

[Tigerhaze]

A little trick I have used in the past for a stuck float is to gently rap the outside of the float bowl with a small hammer. Sometimes that will untsick the float and allow you to continue until it happens again- it also would let you know whether that is the problem or not.

[JD440ICD2006]

I recently had that happen on my JD M. I let it sit for several months and when I tried to start it, no go. I had spark so I knew it was a fuel issue. I was getting ready to take fuel lines apart to see where it was plugged when I recalled a post about a stuck float. I lightly tapped the side of the fuel bowl several times. I pulled the choke, the engine started after about 2 turns.

[dustin]

Thanks for all the information! The dozer is 30~ miles away at our future winery/home site, and there is no power and lights there. I try to gather as much information as I can before I drive out there in the dark at night with my lantern and fix things.

Thanks for the sugggestions, does anyone know if they rotor/cap is the same on both kinds of distributers? The points looked fine... but the roter, cap and cap are pretty bad, and the plug wires almost fell apart in my hands. (got a universal plug wire kit already at Napa for $16) Also... any advice on what to clean/dry out a distributer with? I heard WD40 stands for "water displacement" but I don't think that's a good idea to spray in there.

Dustin

[JD440ICD2006]

There are commercial cans of stuff that will dry out a carb, NAPA should have that also.
I would replace the distributor cap as it is trouble if water gets in there.
Not sure what you mean by "both kinds of distributors".There are two different upright caps for JD 2 cylinder tractors, they are 90 degrees off. They will sometimes start even with the wrong cap but will not run well or make proper power.
If water or even moisture is in there, I would replace the points and condensor after you get it dry and cleaned out.

[Stan Disbrow]

Hi,

I've had the issue, several times, where there is gas in the bowl and then it sits and the gas evaporates, and then the float winds up stuck 'low'.

The symptom is that when you turn the gas on, shortly thereafter gas winds up coming out the air intake.

As noted, a light tap with a small hammer on the side of the bowl corrects the issue.

Later!

Stan

[Gil]

Sorry to add to your complexity but with the crawler a while away from your home, I thought I would offer my two cents worth.

Since your initial post, I wondered if you really have a carburetor problem. In your initial post you said gas spills out after a couple of turns. If you literally mean a couple revolutions of the engine, then it is probably a carburetor issue. But if you mean a couple of cranks with the starter which might each turn the engine over three or four times, then you could have an ignition problem.

If the engine does not fire, I frequently find gasoline accumulating in the carburetor and pouring out the intake. I have even taken the hose clamps off on all my air cleaner hoses so I can easily pull the hoses off and let the gasoline run out. Within a few minutes it should evaporate. Keep the hose off and use limited choke when you try to restart.

I think you are on the right track to pursue moisture in your distributor. You can buy an electrical dryer spray can at any Radio Shack or NAPA. (I am so old I still call it tape head cleaning spray.) Do not use WD40. Computer cleaning compressed air from Staples would be second best.

Replace the spark plug wires. Cap too if you have one. There are plenty of posts here about issues that you may run into. And since you are away from home, take a set of new plugs with you. Good luck.

[dustin]

Gil, you were right. After playing with the carb a bit, I ended up on the electrical side for a few hours... Found out the points were way off, maybe the set screw popped loose. Anyways, replaced the points, condensor, cap, rotor, and it runs like brand new!

I put about 5 hours on the machine today, and only had to clean mud out of the undercaraige about 10 times. That 8 inches of rain we had just won't let anything dry out!

Thanks for all the help everyone, this site is awesome. I wish I could help you guys. If anyone has a case 580 and needs help let me know, I've been tearing that apart here and there also.

Dustin

[Bret4207]

Find some solid core wires for it. Made a world of difference on my 1010.

[townlineterry]

My two cents, for what that's worth. Replace those points with a Petronix ignition module.. This has been dicussed on this forum before and some guys are dead set against it. My self I have replaced the points on my 1010, a Oliver 770 and the farm truck and have never had a problem with any of them. Been in truck about 10 years.

You also have to replace the coil since the stock coil isn't powerful enough. .the whole conversion costs around a hundred dollars, well worth it to avoid replacing points all the time. Takes 15 minutes to do the switch.

Easiest plce to find it is at Yesterday's Tractor

Terry