New 2010C owner needs help

[Tigerhaze]

BTW, I was looking at the spec sheets for the 2010 this morning but forgot to bring them here to work. I could probably scan and post up but don't want copyright infringement.

I spent a little (too much) money last year and bought the original sales brochure for the 2010- besides specs and photos it has a pretty cool cutaway of a crawler showing all of the internal components.

[Tigerhaze]

Jason-

The operator manuals and service manuals have a lot of spec information for the crawler and the loader, if you get the supplement. You can purchase from Deere in multiple formats from this location:

https://www.johndeeretechinfo.com/index ... t_id=52267&

https://www.johndeeretechinfo.com/index ... t_id=52276&

Remember that attachments (including loaders. hoes, and blades) are generally in seperate manuals than the base crawler.

[Gil]

Lavoy,
First let me say that this is theoretical, not something I have actually done; but being a good engineer, I have designed in my mind, a way that I would remove the backhoe if I ever wanted to.

I keep the 440 and backhoe in my wagon shed. I planned to run three chains down from the beams to attach to the backhoe. Maybe use turnbuckles to adjust them to perfectly balance the load. Then I could keep the hoe in its folded configuration, off the ground (block under it?), and not worry about the cylinders leaking down. Drive up to it, or away from it, just like I do with three point hitch implements. For example, my post hole digger, log splitter, etc are chained up in perfect position to drive up to and attach to the three point and PTO shaft.

As far as the backhoe, in my mind it works great. In practice it might fall over and kill me.
Gil

[Lavoy]

Yes, be careful, (says the guy that drowned a crawler last week).
As far as cylinder leaking down, I think there should be enough hose that you could couple up the hyd hoses, and reposition the hoe with the hyd to set it back on the crawler. Not that chains and binders won't work, but I am a fan of letting hyd do the work when possible.
Lavoy

[Tigerhaze]

I'm new to the forum and a new JD 2010C Crawler (I believe) owner, and I'm hoping to get a little help on the specs. I've got to get it shipped, but I don't know the dimensions or overall weight. The 2010 should be around 9,600#, but I don't know the weight of the 820 or the 93. Can you point me in the right direction?

Hi Jason-

I brought my operator's manual to work today so can confirm the following specs for the 2010 crawler with loader:

Weight (gas engine with bucket and counterweights): 13,244 lbs*

*Even though you likely don't have the counterweights (which should be 1,200 lbs for the recommended 6 weights), some of that weight is added back in by the ROPS which appears to be an aftermarket/shop built item of unknown weight.

Overall length (with weights): 161 inches**

**The counterweight bracket (which you don't have on it) probably sticks out the back about 24-30 inches so you can deduct that- however you would need to add in the length of the backhoe when attached as a complete assembly.

Overall height: 72 and 7/8 inches***

***This height is with the loader boom lowered, and believe that they are measuring to the hinge area for bucket cylinder. However your machine also have the ROPS which will be significantly higher than both of these.

Overall width: 66 and 1/4 inches

Hope this helps. Remember you will need to add in the length and height of the hoe to the equation- the measurements given are for the crawler and loader only (without ROPS).

BTW, I have been calling the protective overhead cage on your machine a ROPS for simplicity because I can't remember how stout it is built and can't remember exactly how it is mounted (my work blocks photos and video so i am going by memory of what your photos showed).

Unless the cage has been tested for rollover I would only count on it for minor protection from falling branches. You don't want to get into a situation where you are worrying about rollover, anyhow

[countrybob]

Hi,
My son, JSheffield, is the PROUD owner of a 2010C (believe it to be an early model) crawler loader. It has a few things that need some TLC (mostly on the hoe), but all-in-all it is in good shape. The previous owner reworked the undercarriage and it all appears to be fairly new. The two issues that need fixing first are the fuel pump (gas engine) is leaking and the oil pressure on the gauge is low. The gauge is plumbed after the oil filter (canister type) and I'm wondering if the filter could be clogged. The engine is getting oil as I can hear the oil draining back down when the engine is turned off. Jason was told that the machine set for a good while. I have looked at a parts list for the engine, but the numbers given don't come up on any lists. I figure after close to 50 years they might have changed.
I don't want to tear into anything not knowing if I can get new parts, so, she's setting in the shed until I can get, at least, these two items fixed. Can anyone shed some light on this.
Thanks!!!

[countrybob]

To the fellow that answered my question regarding the oil pressure, or lack thereof, of my son's 2010.
I accidently deleted your message, but wanted to thank you for responding. I feel a little better about the low oil pressure situation.
Thanks!!!
Bob

[FL450B]

you can take it on and off i about 5-10 min. after you have done a few times but when you see how much better your crawler will work without it on iam sure you to will take it on and off as you need to just did the vavle stack on my 93 hoe and i have had this unit for 8 years very useful machine good luck and welcome

[countrybob]

This 2010 has had 2 plates welded to the back and the hoe is attached by 2 bolts and 2 pins. Doesn't seem too difficult to remove and attach the hoe. Jason operated the hoe when he received the machine and, to 2 novices, it's gonna take some time to learn to use it. When running, the hoe swings to the left gradually. I assume it has some seal issues. I don't think it will affect the use of the hoe.

[Tigerhaze]

When running, the hoe swings to the left gradually. I assume it has some seal issues. I don't think it will affect the use of the hoe.

You probably have a Model 50 backhoe attachment or similar model which uses the rotary swing cylinder (doughnut type cylinder)- over time the internal seals can leak and cause issues with boom swing. The cylinder itself is obsolete but someone else on here had stated that internal parts are still available- i haven't had time to confirm.

[Gil]

I have not been able to locate seals for the Model 50/51 swing cylinder. If you know of a source, please let me know. Thanks, Gil