lots of oily water
lots of oily water
Thank you all for the help on the diesel shutting down posts. Since I ended up with 2 off these 350's I am hot on the trail to get one into a reliable workable machine to keep for a long time. I am hoping the rod bearing holds but after moving 12 1ton dump loads of fill that the town dropped off I am feeling like I might get lucky. I have had the stearing inspection plates off now while working on the machine keeping it covered but after working it an especially in high gear allot of watery oil has splashed out of those inspection openings. The left steering works awsome the right you need to pull real hard for a somewhat quick responce. If you just pull good and hold it the track will eventually stop. Is this because of the oil in tha case? I can npot find a plug on the bottom but a recessed round spot approx 1 inch in diameter diesn't seem like I can remove anything. Now reading in this forum it seems like I may have some bad seals. Can I just drain the oily mess somehow and run it until it gets worse befor a tear down and how long will it operate like this until it gets worse. It is workable now and allot of work to get into that housing so I am thinking of just holding off until it's shot then swapping the parts to the other machine that I have prepped for the new complete undercarraige and did steer good befor the undercarraige came off. It seems like this is the place to find the good old experiance. What should I do about good steering clutches on my other machine that will most likely sit for a long time?
Re: lots of oily water
I'm assuming you have a straight 350 with the "dry" mechanical steering clutches. The best thing is to start and drive it at least once a month at a minimum; also make sure to keep crawler in a covered area when not in use.Bruce wrote:What should I do about good steering clutches on my other machine that will most likely sit for a long time?
I also started proppping my steering levers back on my 2010 when not in use- it generally solved the sticking clutch issue but now seems like steering clutches and brakes are out of adjustment so not sure if that was due to propping it back or not.
(1) JD Straight 450 crawler dozer with manual outside blade; (2) JD 2010 diesel crawler loaders; (1) JD 2010 diesel dozer with hydraulic 6-way blade; (2) Model 50 backhoe attachments, misc. other construction equipment
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- 2010 crawler
- Posts: 597
- Joined: Thu Aug 27, 2009 10:08 pm
- Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Get Her Drained First
There will be some plugs on the botton of the clutch cavities. Should be a 3/4" or 1" NPT plug and takes a 3/8 or 1/2 square drive to remove it (just need a rachet)
You will need to determine what type of fluid if any that is in the cavity. If it is just dirty water then you might not need to do a full tear down, but if it is oil then you will.
I have seen my dad fill the cavity with diesel fuel to try and clean out the clutches. It does work but is not the best way to go about it.
You will need to determine what type of fluid if any that is in the cavity. If it is just dirty water then you might not need to do a full tear down, but if it is oil then you will.
I have seen my dad fill the cavity with diesel fuel to try and clean out the clutches. It does work but is not the best way to go about it.
Jason Benesch
John Deere 420, 430, 440 & 350C With 3 Point Hitch
John Deere 400G With Winch
John Deere 2010 Crawler Dozer
John Deere 420, 430, 435 & 440 Wheel Tractors
John Deere 420, 430, 440 & 350C With 3 Point Hitch
John Deere 400G With Winch
John Deere 2010 Crawler Dozer
John Deere 420, 430, 435 & 440 Wheel Tractors
i'll have to check for them plugs again thanks. the funny thing is the left steers real good even with this oily mess in there. The right side is tough I think it is the brake band being worn out as I have adjusted it and it appears to be maxed out. I guess I'll drain the cavity and see what happens after time before I tear it down. Thanks for the input. I am kind of liking the diesel fuel idea on cleaning off the oil. New to these crawlers and now going to look at another one that has stuck clutches. Maybe it has good tracks for my other. The wife is not liking my new hobby so this next one will be on the down low maybe she won't notice!!!
Thanks
Thanks
Bruce- I would suggest reading this post before adding liquids to the steering clutch housing-remember diesel is a type of oil:
http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... oil+clutch
http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... oil+clutch
(1) JD Straight 450 crawler dozer with manual outside blade; (2) JD 2010 diesel crawler loaders; (1) JD 2010 diesel dozer with hydraulic 6-way blade; (2) Model 50 backhoe attachments, misc. other construction equipment
I like allo the posts about possible different fluids to put into the steering clutch housing but I still do can not find the stupid drain plugs. I see where there would be one but no spot for a ratchet or extention to attach to. Do these get taken out through the inside? That seems pretty difficult. I still have to much fluid in there. I guess last resort will be to neck down a shop vac onto some pipe and try to suck it out.
Ken
I am happier than a pig in S#@t. I located those plug locations to find no plugs but jambed tight with dirt or clay. Nothing a screw driver couldn't push through and out came all the sludge. Enough to place large empty gallon jugs to catch it after seeing how much and long it took to all slime out the hole. Makes me worry with all the posts about how oil makes the clutches slip. After running it for another 1 hour it now steers awesome no problems at all nice and easy. Hope it stays like this. I am also thinking and reading up on any possible ways to clean that cavity but not sure if I should mess with it as it is working so good now. I am thinking that that left over grime on all the parts in there is not good though would really feel better knowing I cleaned it out some. I really appreciate you taking the time to take those pics. So far I am getting lucky with this machine first when I bought it nowing it did not steer I adjusted the brake bands and got it to steer then bad injector seals that thined my oil and spun a rod bearing then all the oil in the steering clutch housing that you helped me with now she runs smooth starts awsome steers awesome I am in love with my new toy. Now it is time to find another parts machine for my gas model that need all new undercariage including the front crossbar. Did I mention I hooked the hoe up that is awsome too. Leaks some drops from the bottom of each valve port. KLooks like breather holes but minimal oil leaking. Thanks so much
I am happier than a pig in S#@t. I located those plug locations to find no plugs but jambed tight with dirt or clay. Nothing a screw driver couldn't push through and out came all the sludge. Enough to place large empty gallon jugs to catch it after seeing how much and long it took to all slime out the hole. Makes me worry with all the posts about how oil makes the clutches slip. After running it for another 1 hour it now steers awesome no problems at all nice and easy. Hope it stays like this. I am also thinking and reading up on any possible ways to clean that cavity but not sure if I should mess with it as it is working so good now. I am thinking that that left over grime on all the parts in there is not good though would really feel better knowing I cleaned it out some. I really appreciate you taking the time to take those pics. So far I am getting lucky with this machine first when I bought it nowing it did not steer I adjusted the brake bands and got it to steer then bad injector seals that thined my oil and spun a rod bearing then all the oil in the steering clutch housing that you helped me with now she runs smooth starts awsome steers awesome I am in love with my new toy. Now it is time to find another parts machine for my gas model that need all new undercariage including the front crossbar. Did I mention I hooked the hoe up that is awsome too. Leaks some drops from the bottom of each valve port. KLooks like breather holes but minimal oil leaking. Thanks so much
If you are buying a parts machine for undercarraige, be careful that you do not get something no better than what you have. If it is a parts machine, undercarriage is likely run out.
Brake cleaner is a good one to use to clean the housings out some, just keep the drain hole open so whatever you flush out goes out the bottom.
Lavoy
Brake cleaner is a good one to use to clean the housings out some, just keep the drain hole open so whatever you flush out goes out the bottom.
Lavoy
Thanks lavoy on the break cleaner. I think any flushing will make me feel more comfortable. My old tracks that came of this other machine are single grousers but the track chain is worn down to the pins the front crossbar has breaks and missing pieces where it bolts to the track rails and 1 tensioner yolk is cracked thus twisting the front idler. I found a parts machine that the guy is willing to do a even swap for an old ford 800 I have with a bad rim but his pics of his tracks show tripple grousers worn down allmost smooth. Makes me think the track chains are most likey as worn so I turned him down. His asking price was $2300. It runs does not steer and the tracks apear to be worn out. So I am still looking.
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