2010 Repair

[Pammark]

I figure a picture is worth a 1,000 words. Now add in my words of text and you have a book. I do not mind fixing up mechanical things, and I normally end up redesigning something along the way. When all is said and done, the left over parts were just a mere mistake the original engineers made in the first place. My pile of parts are getting low, so I must be nearing the end of this project.



I do listen to the comments. One mentioned to get industrial grade foam for the seat padding. I contacted a nearby apholstery shop and picked up some scrap chunks of 2 inch and 4 inch material. They had a neat reciprocating electric knife for cutting smooth edges. I used my wood band saw that worked wonders.



I glued the the foam to the wood bases. I am in the process to sew the corners of the naugahide material. I am doing the sewing by hand with thicker botton-hole thread.



I painted the track and positioned it under the rear sprockets, extended out the barn. The dozer is off the blocks and full weight on the tracks.



The front was put on planks to keep the wheels above the dirt. The blocks have been removed too.



She is ready to move under her own power.



I eased the dozer in reverse until the end of the track could roll up about a 1/3 of the rear sprocket.



We used a chain and the TO-20 Ferguson to pull the track up over the front wheel and back to the rear sprocket. The master pin was inserted and that was the easiest track job I ever did. It sure helps to shine up the master pin and track hole with emery cloth beforehand.



Storms were a brewin, so I drove the dozer back into the barn, even with the track so loose. Her maiden voyage was a success. I even tried the steering slightly, and they worked. More liquid sunshine came down, just delaying my farming another week or so.

[Pammark]

I drove the dozer out of the barn, after tightening up the tracks, to put fuel in her. On the way back, she did not respond to my steering commands and headed right for the clover field for a quick romp.



She went this way and that way and the steering ran well. It only took a few feet for her to find the mud and whaller some. I got her to go back toward the barn and she was one happy initiated dozer. Maybe being couped up in the barn for almost a year was too much to take.



I powerwashed the front loader parts in preparation for paint. Maybe if the rains will ever stop, I'll get a coat on.



In the meantime, I worked on the seat parts. The base is done and the back-rest is being sewn inside-out.



Flip over, staple, and the back-rest is done ready to install.

[Afzimm]

Nice job on the seat. Glad she runs and steers like new.
Why didn't you paint the loader cylinders and bucket?

[Pammark]

I haven't got to it yet. I had the loader and bucket propped up in the barn when I was painting the rest. Now that the rest is painted and the loader works again, I plan to finish the paint job.

Thanks for the compliments.

[cdunn]

I glued the the foam to the wood bases. I am in the process to sew the corners of the naugahide material. I am doing the sewing by hand with thicker botton-hole thread.

Any one know what a nauga looks like? I have never seen one, but there must be a lot of them around since there are so many seats and chairs ect. made from their hides. Might be good income from raising them if you could catch enough to get started.

[Paul Buhler]

I sure hope you post a final picture with you on your machine holding up a toast to a job well done. Thanks for sharing your project.

Since I'll be putting my tracks back on in the near future (I hope), I liked seeing how you did yours. I don't have a loader to help, but I'll improvise something.
Paul

[Pammark]

There are several ways to put the track on. Mostly depends on how loose and how far back the front wheel is adjusted.

If you set the track so it rolls about 1/3 of the way up the rear sprocket, that leaves you a few top cogs to catch the other end of the track. We man-handled the track up over the front wheel, then hooked a chain on to pull. You can do it either with a tractor, pickup or winch. Just position directly behind so you pull over the top roller too.

Click the track over the top sprocket cogs and see if you align with the other end. You might be off by a notch or two. If the track is reall heavy, you can jack up the rear of the dozer until the sprocket is off the bottom track, put the dozer in reverse and let it pull the track and next notch or two. Lower the dozer and put the master pin in.

The key is to let the rear sprocket help hold the ends together for you.


I went to a Nauga Farm to find the Nauga hide. Just like years ago there was a Nap animal. Man caught one with dirty hands and found out the fine skin cleaned his hands well. The beginning of the Napskin. The shirt sleeve was invented later.

[Paul Buhler]

If you set the track so it rolls about 1/3 of the way up the rear sprocket, that leaves you a few top cogs to catch the other end of the track. We man-handled the track up over the front wheel, then hooked a chain on to pull. You can do it either with a tractor, pickup or winch. Just position directly behind so you pull over the top roller too.

Thanks. I see you've done a few track jobs. It's the "manhandling" that I like to minimize. I often work alone which means that I usually use come-alongs, grunts, crowbars and drifts to get the pin in. My experience has been dealing with a thrown track in miserable places which involves plans b,c,d,e or even f.
A beer or two as lubricant eases the job.
Paul

[cdunn]

went to a Nauga Farm to find the Nauga hide. Just like years ago there was a Nap animal. Man caught one with dirty hands and found out the fine skin cleaned his hands well. The beginning of the Napskin. The shirt sleeve was invented later.

Yes, slick sleeves are common here in the south, especially in the winter

[Tigerhaze]

Thanks. I see you've done a few track jobs. It's the "manhandling" that I like to minimize. I often work alone which means that I usually use come-alongs, grunts, crowbars and drifts to get the pin in. My experience has been dealing with a thrown track in miserable places which involves plans b,c,d,e or even f.
A beer or two as lubricant eases the job.
Paul

I've found that a skid steer loader really makes the job easier

[andregrondin]

Hi !

PAMMARK !! astonishing job you did on the loader and the pics and description !! so much details in the process that we can use a lot of your information to fix our own machine !

I own a J-D 350 straight 1966 taht need a couple of adjustement so I will be able to use some of your tricks .

very very well done !! you can be extreamly proud !!

regards

[Pammark]

Thanks you for all the compliments. I went into detail to show people you do not need a fancy shop or $1,000's worth of tools to get the job done.

I still have more pics to post. The seat is done and mounted up. It sits real nice and cushy. I need to finsh the bucket paint job and get the final decals placed.

Meanwhile the belly pans are installed and ready to get down and dirty.


Mark

[JD440ICD2006]

Great job!!

It is actually a little more fun to figure out how to get this stuff done without the fancy equipment.

[Pammark]

Dear Readers,

I woud like to extend a thank you for viewing my site. It topped 10,000 hits, which makes it one of the top popular sites on the forum. Pictures go a long way. Who would have ever thought?

Unfortunately, the dozer looks the same as the last few shots. It already loaded 140 ton of compost to be spread and has cleared some fencerow brush. I still need to finish painting the bucket and put the decals on. It is just one happy dozer, free to turn right and left and just get down and dirty.

Mark

[Pammark]

It only took a year and a half, but the dozer rebuilt is finally done. I bought the rear decal from JD and my brother in Texas made the "2010's", the HLR and shifter decals. I finshed painting the bucket and I have 1/2 pint left over for touch-up. I put it in a cleaned stain can. It took 3 gallon of School Bus Yellow to do the project.



Here, you see the front. Note the large hooks I added across the top of the bucket. The last picture will show what they are for.



The rear view looks just as nice.



Last year I bought the heavy forks at an auction sale. The forks hook into the top round rod so you can slide them in and out. I added a level gauge stick to the left side tilt cylinder for the forks, similar to the one on the right side for the bucket. That way I know when the forks are level.

This has been a fun project spread over uses in the middle. Now I have 150 ton of compost to load and spread before the snow flies.