Calling all weldors

JD440ICD2006 · Post by **JD440ICD2006** » Mon May 14, 2012 8:03 pm

Thanks for all of the details.
Could you take some pics and post them for me to see?

andregrondin · Post by **andregrondin** » Tue May 15, 2012 5:20 am

Hi !

My tilt cylinder is secured the way Bryce describes it on its post , the threaded inside pin is there to attach a puller so you can remove the pin without too much damage , I did remove mine like this two weeks ago and yes there is a rolled spring pin.

JD440ICD2006 · Post by **JD440ICD2006** » Tue May 15, 2012 12:54 pm

Mine are spun welded and looks like a factory job.

Paul Buhler · Post by **Paul Buhler** » Tue May 15, 2012 4:21 pm

Is this the cylinder that's broken on your machine? It appears that the retaining pin is a press/gravity fit and the threaded center is for pulling it out.
http://www.johnnypopper.com/weirddeere/ ... pic89.html

This pin has no cotter pins or other type of fasters to hold it in. I can see the hole on the top end.
It is in there and not sure how I would pull it out.

If so, on yours, check the center hole for threads; if none, could you weld a piece of threaded rod onto the retaining pin, and jack the pin out using a nut, big washer(s) and a pipe coupling as a shoulder? The heat from welding might help loosen the pin too. If it doesn't work, a bit of grinding will clean up your efforts with no harm done.

Hey, it's fun trying to figure out someone else's problem - no bruised knuckles or burnt fingers. Good luck

JD440ICD2006 · Post by **JD440ICD2006** » Tue May 15, 2012 5:47 pm

Thanks for the details on this. I will look at again this weekend.
I recall seeing a hole in the top of the pin but it is filled with dirt.

shinnery · Post by **shinnery** » Tue May 15, 2012 7:04 pm

Hopefully I can make these pictures work. The first is my broken end, looking at the picture what I thought was a collar is part of the blade and the roll pin is thru the pin and collar. The set screw is clearly visible and you can sorta make out the threads in the top end of the pin. The roll pin is in line with the cyl rod. Next pic is my good side and the last is one of the blade lift end connections.
Bryce

JD440ICD2006 · Post by **JD440ICD2006** » Tue May 15, 2012 8:07 pm

Bryce,

Fantastic! Those pics really help.
Thank you for taking time to post them!

shinnery · Post by **shinnery** » Tue May 15, 2012 10:51 pm

Well they did cost me a little, those bright green leaves you see in a couple of pictures, they are "bullnettles"! If you brush against them, even with jeans on, you know about it for hours, and they get well over knee high. I have found nothing that kills them, some 2,4,D mixes will knock them down for a little while, but they come back up. They have a large "tater" a couple of feet down (it looks like a sweet potato), and I have heard if you pour diesel directly on the tater they are done, lotta digin'. I am looking at some stuff Wally-World sells that claims bare ground for a year, we shall see.
Bryce

andregrondin · Post by **andregrondin** » Wed May 16, 2012 11:05 am

Hi!

so next step is to remove the spring pin ( picture one )

then clean thread head of the pin then screw a nice clean long bolt in there with a nut thru a big socket to create a puller and try slowly and gently to pull out the pin and TADA !!! you should be able to remove the cylinder end .

JD440ICD2006 · Post by **JD440ICD2006** » Wed May 16, 2012 11:08 am

Thanks for that detailed explaination, you guys are awesome.
I appreciate the support from this site!

Paul Buhler · Post by **Paul Buhler** » Wed May 16, 2012 1:44 pm

cool tag-teaming!

then clean thread head of the pin then screw a nice clean long bolt in there with a nut thru a big socket to create a puller and try slowly and gently to pull out the pin and TADA !!! you should be able to remove the cylinder end .

After you clean up the pin's threads as deep as possible, then you screw in the long bolt with the nut already at the shoulder below the head, through the deep socket or pipe coupling or whatever works, as much as possible. To pull the pin, you use the nut against the socket. this keeps the pin's threads intact. If you try to screw in a short bolt against a shoulder, you'll strip the pin's threads - guess how I know.

OT: Andre: How did you add the arrows to Shinnery's pictures? Thanks. Paul

Paul Buhler · Post by **Paul Buhler** » Wed May 16, 2012 3:39 pm

Figured it out.

JD440ICD2006 · Post by **JD440ICD2006** » Wed May 16, 2012 3:57 pm

Paul,

You may share with us how to overwrite in red on pics.

Let's hope now that my pin has the threads in it. If so, I have sockets large enough and grade 8 bolts that should walk it out of there, even if I need to coax it with heat.

DaveP · Post by **DaveP** » Wed May 16, 2012 5:24 pm

There's a split pin that holds the large pin in place. Mines rusted away and I could lift the large pin out with my fingers until the bottom of it started into the ram hole as the pics show.

JD440ICD2006 · Post by **JD440ICD2006** » Wed May 16, 2012 6:14 pm

DaveP,

Thanks for the pics!
I feel better seeing another that was spun welded. I felt like that was a factory thing, a change made of many along the 2 years of production.

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