2010 Clutch Problem

[wildbill65]

I am new to this site, but I have really appreciated it as a source of information on issues affecting my 2010 crawler.

I have an issue with the steering clutches. It seems that after they heat up (30 minutes) I have to apply more force on the steering handles in order for them to work. I usually stop working when this happens. When the machine is cool, it steers relatively easily. I would open the drain, but have not identified the location, in case it is a moisture issue.

I have read the adjustment procedures, but would like more input from you folks on your recommendations before I begin. Also, I was curious if a non-petroleum based spray of the clutches may help. Also saw some comments about baking soda on the clutches, will this help me gimp along a little while longer?

I will likely replace the clutches at some point, so Lavoy should be hearing from me for a quote.

Again, thanks to all of you for your knowledge and this great site. Ive had my 2010 for almost 2 years and I really enjoy it, but it needs a lot of work. It does not have the 'middle' track idlers, so I have issues with the track bushings for sure. I have found another 2010 (not running) that has a lot better undercarriage (track, pins, bushings, sprocket guards, rock rakes, and idlers are all better than mine), but I'm still working on the guy to drop his price some ($2000).

Thanks to all,
Bill

[Tigerhaze]

Hi Bill-

Welcome to the board.

You can inspect the steering clutch housings from the top- to each side of the seat is a small plate with 4 bolts that can be unbolted and should give you some idea of whether moisture is in the housing. This would also be where you would inspect during steering clutch and brake adjustments.

There should be a drain plug at the bottom of each steering clutch housing as well- beneath the crawler just above and inside of the final drives.

Is the need for more steering effort after 30 mins the clutches or the brake bands (i.e. a half pull or full pull on steering lever)? If a full pull 'm guessing as they heat up some absorbed oil is coming to the surface of the brake bands and causing them to slip some, seeming like they are requiring more effort.

I personally would not recommend spraying anything until you try adjustment first. Spraying anything in the housings is taking a risk because even if the spray is not petroleum based, the solvent may free up absorbed oil that then transfers to other clutch parts such as the steels and causes slippage. if the issue is rust, then spraying may not help much.

When you are looking at the replacement undercarriage, make sure that it is of the same serial number range- early (pre 42,000) or late (post 42,000). Although many of the undercarriage parts are the same between the two, the sprockets and the rails/pins/bushings are different sizes and not generally interhcnageable. Those parts drive a large part of undercarriage cost on a 2010. You can tell from the bushing and pin diameters and/or the part number of the sprockets.

[Lavoy]

I would guess you are a little long on freeplay, or brake band is too tight.
Lavoy

[wildbill65]

Thank you to Tigerhaze and Lavoy for the fine suggestions. I'll make the adjustments on the clutches and brakes and go from there. Unfortunately, I can't do it this weekend, the wife has me working on the front porch. You know how it is, I'm sure.
Thanks,
Bill

[jtrichard]

IF you pull the "DRAIN PLUGS" make sure that you replace them as they are the alignment pins for the brake bands and they keep anything outside from getting in (water) ETC.

[wildbill65]

JTRichard,

That's good to know. I appreciate that info.

Bill