John Deere 440 crawler tips of sprockets hitting idler ?
- Captainjoe
- 430 crawler
- Posts: 66
- Joined: Tue Sep 04, 2012 5:53 am
- Location: Sandyville WV
John Deere 440 crawler tips of sprockets hitting idler ?
Can't see anything obviously wrong...
Only way i can see this happening is if the axels got bent (3"solid steel)???
Help!
going to have to grind off sprocket tips on obth sides or it;s going to take my rear idlers out.
Don't understand as there was about 1/8 inch clearance and now theres none
Only way i can see this happening is if the axels got bent (3"solid steel)???
Help!
going to have to grind off sprocket tips on obth sides or it;s going to take my rear idlers out.
Don't understand as there was about 1/8 inch clearance and now theres none
It's better to seek forgivness than to ask for permission...
Final drive bearings out is the most likely reason, quite while you are ahead, find out for sure.
Lavoy
Lavoy
Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
- Captainjoe
- 430 crawler
- Posts: 66
- Joined: Tue Sep 04, 2012 5:53 am
- Location: Sandyville WV
Can't be ring gear, axles are supported within the finals themselves. It is very odd that both would happen at once. I would still check bearings in the finals to be sure. Also pull the inner axle quill and make sure the retainer bolts did nto come loose.
Lavoy
Lavoy
Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
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- 1010 crawler
- Posts: 353
- Joined: Mon Apr 04, 2005 6:53 pm
- Location: Columbus Ohio
I'm finding some of the lock tabs are breaking and letting the bolts come out and the axle to slide out. I just repaired one that this happened to thought I would take one off a final I had laying around took the cap off and it had broke to and the bolts where backing out. Used the finger gauge for the first time putting the clutches in and that is slick as a whistle I wouldn't do one without again.
- Captainjoe
- 430 crawler
- Posts: 66
- Joined: Tue Sep 04, 2012 5:53 am
- Location: Sandyville WV
Tracks are off, idlers are good on both sides.
I/16" lash on left sprocket very little up down maybe a 32nd?
I/4 " lash on right sprocket very little up down maybe a 32nd?
upon inspection my tracks were way to tight perhaps a 1/2" sag, when it should have been 7/8 to 1 1/8"...
the four bolts that hold the rail on kept backing out and i kept tightning and must have adjusted the sag when the bolts were loose.
Since i have it this far i may as well pull the final and check the bearings.
Will take pictures and let you know tonight.
I/16" lash on left sprocket very little up down maybe a 32nd?
I/4 " lash on right sprocket very little up down maybe a 32nd?
upon inspection my tracks were way to tight perhaps a 1/2" sag, when it should have been 7/8 to 1 1/8"...
the four bolts that hold the rail on kept backing out and i kept tightning and must have adjusted the sag when the bolts were loose.
Since i have it this far i may as well pull the final and check the bearings.
Will take pictures and let you know tonight.
It's better to seek forgivness than to ask for permission...
- Captainjoe
- 430 crawler
- Posts: 66
- Joined: Tue Sep 04, 2012 5:53 am
- Location: Sandyville WV
- Captainjoe
- 430 crawler
- Posts: 66
- Joined: Tue Sep 04, 2012 5:53 am
- Location: Sandyville WV
While i have the finals off will probably replace brake bands as i'm about out of adjustment.
Being relatively new to bulldozing (5)years. I had never operated one before. Only the one I have. Last year i jumped on a JD 350 dry clutch and was surprized when going downhill it turned exactly opposite the way it did going uphill using only the steering clutches. it also turned very easily going forward or back.
I thought my clutches were adjusted correctly but probably aren't. when cold the clutches work very well. After warming up it becomes extreemly hard to steer going forward (have to pull to the point of engaging brake to turn). This is not the case when bcking up...(slight pressure on either side will allow it to turn on a dime easily???)
went to JD couple years back and he gave me a photocopy of pressure plate adjustment jig and i made one out of wood and adjusted the fingers of the pressure plate accordingly.PO had told me this is where he adjusted the cutch???more BS.
Mechanic at JD checked plates and metals and said they were good to go.
Right now The throw out bearing adjuster on the left side has no adjustment left. throw out bearing adjuster on right side is about halfway. [/img]
Being relatively new to bulldozing (5)years. I had never operated one before. Only the one I have. Last year i jumped on a JD 350 dry clutch and was surprized when going downhill it turned exactly opposite the way it did going uphill using only the steering clutches. it also turned very easily going forward or back.
I thought my clutches were adjusted correctly but probably aren't. when cold the clutches work very well. After warming up it becomes extreemly hard to steer going forward (have to pull to the point of engaging brake to turn). This is not the case when bcking up...(slight pressure on either side will allow it to turn on a dime easily???)
went to JD couple years back and he gave me a photocopy of pressure plate adjustment jig and i made one out of wood and adjusted the fingers of the pressure plate accordingly.PO had told me this is where he adjusted the cutch???more BS.
Mechanic at JD checked plates and metals and said they were good to go.
Right now The throw out bearing adjuster on the left side has no adjustment left. throw out bearing adjuster on right side is about halfway. [/img]
It's better to seek forgivness than to ask for permission...
- Captainjoe
- 430 crawler
- Posts: 66
- Joined: Tue Sep 04, 2012 5:53 am
- Location: Sandyville WV
We've got a BINGO! the bolts were indeed backed out on the left final drive but the tabs were still against the bolt heads and no they aren't stripped out. Only way that could happen is if they didn't tighten till all the slack was out.Howard Yoder wrote:I'm finding some of the lock tabs are breaking and letting the bolts come out and the axle to slide out. I just repaired one that this happened to thought I would take one off a final I had laying around took the cap off and it had broke to and the bolts where backing out. Used the finger gauge for the first time putting the clutches in and that is slick as a whistle I wouldn't do one without again.
anyway that one is fixed... yea!
Now the' bad news...
the right hand final had tight bolts, but, when I took the final drive gear off, the cast splines (6) showed a lot of wear as did the flanged axel. Thinking i may be able to weld axel splines (6) for a tighter fit?
They also talk about axel bearing preload, Am i right assuming this is end play of .004 to .007 after 35 revelotions of axel?
Dont know sure will be a lot of effort if it doesn't work .
Last edited by Captainjoe on Tue Oct 23, 2012 4:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.
It's better to seek forgivness than to ask for permission...
Not play, preload, .003 to .007 positive.
Lavoy
Lavoy
Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
You might look at the following thread which discusses options for using "epoxy" as a solution for your axle wear:
http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... =axle+weld
Gil
http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... =axle+weld
Gil
JD440-ICD loader; JD440-IC bulldozer; JD440-ICD backhoe; JD440-I backhoe; JD440-I tractor; + five recumbent JD440-ICs
- Captainjoe
- 430 crawler
- Posts: 66
- Joined: Tue Sep 04, 2012 5:53 am
- Location: Sandyville WV
I've got a 55 tooth final drive gear and a 6 spline drive axel.
Talked to guy today asid he'd sell me the Final drive gear for $150 and the axel for $200.
he said to make sure to count the teeth on the final drive gear as some were 60 tooth???
Does that sound like a good price?
or
should I go with the epoxy? the axel isnt to far off but the cast iron splines are in pretty bad shape (1/4" lash)
Another thing i said the left final was good... well the splines and gears are but the bearings are thrashed...
Talked to guy today asid he'd sell me the Final drive gear for $150 and the axel for $200.
he said to make sure to count the teeth on the final drive gear as some were 60 tooth???
Does that sound like a good price?
or
should I go with the epoxy? the axel isnt to far off but the cast iron splines are in pretty bad shape (1/4" lash)
Another thing i said the left final was good... well the splines and gears are but the bearings are thrashed...
It's better to seek forgivness than to ask for permission...
440 is either 55 or 56 tooth, never was a 60.
You can't beat the price, if they are good, I would go that way.
I normally stock bearing kits.
Lavoy
You can't beat the price, if they are good, I would go that way.
I normally stock bearing kits.
Lavoy
Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
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