Whats the concensus

[MattE]

I've got a 350b loader that the seal between the engine and reverser is leaking. I've run it like that for quite a while, but the leak is getting to the point where it is too expensive to keep dumping oil in it. I put it in the shop for it's winter rest and plan on changing the seal this month or next between big projects.

Here's the question I want to get everyone's take on. The reverser works perfectly, no problems ever. So when I pull the engine do I go through the extra work and pull the reverser to go through it. Or just leave it be and change the seal?

What does everyone think?

[jtrichard]

chances are its never been apart ALL the seals are 40+/- years old if one is leaking how many others are?as the clutch pack seals leak more and more then you start to slip and burn them,right now you have a good chance that clutch packs are good and you can pull it and just reseal it also you can check out all the bearings ECT.....Murphys law says you go to all the trouble to pull the grill,rad.,engine and just replace the front seal put it all back together and a few weeks later the clutches start slipping i would also replace the rear main seal while i had it apart

[KenP]

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[BSims66173]

I agree with KenP. If it is working good, I would only change the front seal

[Willyr]

If you do have the engine out. I highly recommend that you get some other maintenance done as well. IE over haul your starter, as well as your generator / alternator. If you have a pilot bushing in your flywheel, replace it and lube before assembly. If your ring gear is chipped or missing teeth, get it fixed when you have that engine out. Also a new fan belt!

These are simple repairs when the engine has been pulled, A pain when everything is in place in the tractor.

[KenP]

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[CatD8RII]

The question you need to ask yourself is this, " Where do I stop?"

Personally, unless you find unusual play or spine wear on the reversers input shaft, I'd pull the engine, change the reverser input shaft seal and the o-ring between the pump and the front cover and leave the reverser intact. If something ever did go wrong in the reverser, its not a ton of work to get back to where you are. It might not be a bad idea to check the condition of the ring gear on the flywheel while you're there, and to check the isolators condition as well.

Pulling the reverser is A LOT of work, let alone rebuilding it. Unless your'e doing a complete rebuild, or are looking to spend money, why bother? Following that logic, where would you stop? would you take the transmission apart or the final drives?

[Tigerhaze]

I'll preface this by saying that I have not pulled or rebuilt a 350 reverser- my opinion is more of a general observation from working on a large varierty of motorized equipment and vehicles over the years.

I tend to agree with CATD8RII. Once you try to get to a part that takes some disassembly of other components, it is very likely you will find other wearable items (especially gaskets and seals) that could be replaced. You could keep fixing other wearable parts, but when do you stop short of a full rebuild or restoration? I have started with a water pump repair and eneded up changing every component on the front of an engine, or a gasket replacement and ended up cleaning and rebuilding the top end of an engine.

If you had other problems it might be worth it, but if functional I would probably stick to replacing those in the immediate area that are easily accessed, generally of lower cost, and little potential of causing additional disassembly if the replacement causes damage to the existing parts (rusted or stuck bolts are one prime example of this). I would definitely perform any inspection of easily accessed parts and cleaning of grime while you are there so if you have problems later you know their condition already and it will be cleaner to work on the next time.

Now having said that, my luck is that once I replace a worn seal with a new one (especially front or rear main seals on engines) it invariably causes the opposite one to fail from the increased pressure.

[JWB Contracting]

Well, it took me a full day to pull the reverser on my current project and have done it on a few occasions. This included pulling the entire 6 way Dozer and attachments, fuel tank and both side consoles.

More than likely you are going to find play in your input shaft. You can shim it, put in a new seal and hope for the best. You will get some use out of it before the leak re-occurs.

It is a big job, but if you get at its not that bad. My dad takes over on the reverser rebuild from there. The one were working on just needed bearings and seals do very cheap from a parts perspective and we already had the parts on the shelf other than the input seal.

[MattE]

Thanks guys, you've basically said everything I've thought to myself.

It's in the shop now, and it won't be needed for six months. Pulling the motor is only an hour or two, so that really isn't a big deal. I just fear my luck that if I don't dig into it now it will fail this summer when I need it.

I guess I'll just pop the motor out and see what the input shaft looks like.

Then play my cards.

Thanks again

[jtrichard]

Matt you have said exactly what i was thinking you have all winter ....and if you have the energy /money to go through a 40 year old reverser i would do it because as you have said if it screws up later it wont be in the middle of winter when you can take your time to rebuild it and then you WILL have done more damage to it