Good evening gentlemen.
I have just inherited a JD 440 IDC. I was hoping that I might have a few fellows offer a few insightful solutions to a few problems that I have run into.
This machine was purchased by my father almost 20 years ago and the last time that I remember it running was about 15 years ago. It was used by the previous owner to my understanding to clean and move manure.
The track system was in pretty rough shape and my father pulled the tracks to do some repairs and that is where has stayed.
This summer I took it upon myself to start and hopefully before Christmas finish the rebuilding of a M John Deere that has been waiting for some TLC for almost teh same number of years.
Now I am on to the 440 IDC. Here are a few of the issues that I have run into thus far.
1, I will need replacing the wiring harness: is this system a 6 or 12 volt system? Does Any one have a correct wiring diagram?
2, To remove the hood, I need to lift the bucket. Any suggestion as to how I can lift the bucket with out having the machine running?
3, Is there any tricks that you folks have that I might use to get a machine that has not been running for 12-14 years to start?
Any ideas or insight would be greatly appreciated.
440 IDC information requested.
I lifted my bucket up about 4 feet with my jack-all and a bunch of wood blocks.
on my 350 it was high enough to clear the loader frame away from the side of the engine for starter repairs
intake and exhaust may have mouse nests or other trash that could get sucked in or enter the exhaust valves from the muffler.
I would change the fuel, fuel filters and bleed everything all the way to the injection pump.
I like to get a little oil into the cylinders before I turn it over, a spoonful will make a big difference to get the compression up.
Use two batteries, it will get you that extra cranking speed.
Check all the oil levels in the rest of your tractor. If it starts you do not want to be running it dry anywhere. Check them for water as well, if it has sat, any water will be separated to the bottom of all the housings and draining it all out before it gets mixed back into the oil is a good thing.
you will likely need to crack the injectors to bleed them once the fuel is getting there. bleed them again once it is running.
Do not cook the starter, give it rests between attempts to cool off.
I am not sure if either is recommended for your model, if it is then a small amount helps a lot. If it is not recommended it could damage your rings and more.
Give it lots of throddle until it starts then back it down as soon as it fires up.
Scott
on my 350 it was high enough to clear the loader frame away from the side of the engine for starter repairs
intake and exhaust may have mouse nests or other trash that could get sucked in or enter the exhaust valves from the muffler.
I would change the fuel, fuel filters and bleed everything all the way to the injection pump.
I like to get a little oil into the cylinders before I turn it over, a spoonful will make a big difference to get the compression up.
Use two batteries, it will get you that extra cranking speed.
Check all the oil levels in the rest of your tractor. If it starts you do not want to be running it dry anywhere. Check them for water as well, if it has sat, any water will be separated to the bottom of all the housings and draining it all out before it gets mixed back into the oil is a good thing.
you will likely need to crack the injectors to bleed them once the fuel is getting there. bleed them again once it is running.
Do not cook the starter, give it rests between attempts to cool off.
I am not sure if either is recommended for your model, if it is then a small amount helps a lot. If it is not recommended it could damage your rings and more.
Give it lots of throddle until it starts then back it down as soon as it fires up.
Scott
450`s c-dozer 6 way, b-loader.
350`s c-loader + ripper, b-loader with winch arch. B-loader with dozer pads
backhoe attachment.
1010 loader with forks for round bales
a few 610 Bobcats. many attachments
350`s c-loader + ripper, b-loader with winch arch. B-loader with dozer pads
backhoe attachment.
1010 loader with forks for round bales
a few 610 Bobcats. many attachments
either in a Detroit is not bad mine love the stuff ....i would have a piece of plywood that you could put over the intake in case the rack is stuck when you start it,, it could run away on you
2010 with 622 dozer with mod. 35 ripper and a 2010 with 622 dozer bought in 1969 and a 2010 loader with drott and mod. 36 ripper
- JD440ICD2006
- 350 crawler
- Posts: 1113
- Joined: Tue Aug 22, 2006 3:57 pm
- Location: South Carolina
When I rebuilt my GM 2-53, I had the luxury of an 86 year old diesel mechanic that has rebuilt about every Detroit engine for 50 years.
His comment about ether is this. If used properly and sparingly, it is the best way to start a diesel in cold wether.
However, if too much is used, it will break the oil rings. That is the reason we see so many of these smoking but still making power.
His comment about ether is this. If used properly and sparingly, it is the best way to start a diesel in cold wether.
However, if too much is used, it will break the oil rings. That is the reason we see so many of these smoking but still making power.
1959 JD 440ICD w/64 Power Angle Tilt Blade
1959 JD 440ICD w/63 Manual Angle Blade
1959 JD 440IC w/602 Manual Angle Blade
1959 JD 730D W SE (many options)
1950 JD M S w/M-20 Mower
1952 JD M W
1955 FORD 640 (burns the most fuel)
1959 JD 440ICD w/63 Manual Angle Blade
1959 JD 440IC w/602 Manual Angle Blade
1959 JD 730D W SE (many options)
1950 JD M S w/M-20 Mower
1952 JD M W
1955 FORD 640 (burns the most fuel)
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