john deere 2010 diesel...a lot of grey/white smoke

Post by **Lavoy** » Fri Dec 07, 2012 7:04 pm

Tips for the early injectors are a Deere only item, and the last set of 1010 tips I got were defective from the factory, so be cautious if you buy them and the don't work. They are also something like $160/each or more.
If you have the late style injectors, I can get you rebuilts for a lot less than that, or your local iinjection shop should be able to rebuild them as well.
Lavoy

05victorylly · Post by **05victorylly** » Fri Dec 07, 2012 8:00 pm

Lavoy wrote:Tips for the early injectors are a Deere only item, and the last set of 1010 tips I got were defective from the factory, so be cautious if you buy them and the don't work. They are also something like $160/each or more.
If you have the late style injectors, I can get you rebuilts for a lot less than that, or your local iinjection shop should be able to rebuild them as well.
Lavoy

Are the early and late injector tips based of serial number or is it just a crap shoot as to which ones i have?

05victorylly · Post by **05victorylly** » Fri Dec 07, 2012 8:11 pm

Tigerhaze wrote:
05victorylly wrote: Thank you very much for explaining that to me. I guess I better stay away from the ether. Does anyone know if there is a way to see if the top ring and precombustion chambers are damaged already?

Also does anyone have a picture of those chambers? I am having a hard time imagining what they look like.
My understanding is that you would mainly see damage in the form of lower compression due to leakage around the top ring and potentially gouging of the cylinder (liner) wall. Similarly if the precombustion chambers crack, you would have leakage around them as well. However I am not an expert on that- there are a number of Deere mechanics on here that can verify.

If you want to see a parts diagram for the precombustion chambers, you can go to this link:

http://jdpc.deere.com/jdpc/servlet/com. ... ervlet_Alt

Then type in 2010 in the model search at top left, then click on 728- 2010 series crawler tractors . You will get the PDF version of the parts manual- the precombustion chambers are on page 44 of the manual (page 46 of the PDF).

Deere actually calls the precombustion chambers the upper and lower turbulence chambers (parts 5 and 13); if you look on your engine the upper chambers are the "plates" that bolt to the head that the injectors and glow plugs are screwed into. The lower chambers are not visible- I believe these are the ones damaged if excessive ether is used. BTW, I checked the online JD parts ordering and those parts are NLA.

I wonder what material they are made of (i assume steel) and if a good machine shop would be able to weld and repair a cracked lower chamber.

Post by **Lavoy** » Fri Dec 07, 2012 8:29 pm

No, definitely based on serial number.
Lavoy

ktheaker · Post by **ktheaker** » Sat Dec 08, 2012 9:05 am

great read what is the serial cut-off for the replacable tips and the other style for the 1010 and 2010 thanks

jtrichard · Post by **jtrichard** » Sat Dec 08, 2012 11:32 am

42000

ktheaker · Post by **ktheaker** » Sat Dec 08, 2012 1:05 pm

i suspect your stating anythuing below 42000 has replaceable tips on the injectors and anything above are the one piece rebuildable

jtrichard · Post by **jtrichard** » Sat Dec 08, 2012 1:24 pm

i believe its the other way around.... i could be wrong

ktheaker · Post by **ktheaker** » Sat Dec 08, 2012 1:27 pm

thanks

Post by **Lavoy** » Sat Dec 08, 2012 4:43 pm

All have replaceable tips, the issue is that the early injectors are a Deere only item, and expensive. The later injectors are readily available rebuilt for way less than just the cost of the tips for the early style.
Lavoy

ktheaker · Post by **ktheaker** » Sat Dec 08, 2012 5:28 pm

thanks again , just trying to be somewhat knowledgable when i try and turn over this basket case 1010 i bought / sounds to me i best have fresh glow plugs in it and hopefully has a primer from the posts i have read

05victorylly · Post by **05victorylly** » Tue Dec 18, 2012 4:47 pm

Just an update here!!

After replacing glow plugs, battery cables, rebuilt starter, new thermostat and fuel filters many of my issues have been solved. It now starts extremely easily without any sort of starting aid like ether even at 18F. Runs smoother, more powerful and comes up to temperature quickly.

The white/grey smoke is non-existent after the first few minutes of warm up. All I am getting is a little blue oil smoke at idle likely due to damage to the top oil ring,but it runs strong and makes good power. I am guessing this machine was started with ether for the last few years from the PO he always had trouble starting it. But it sat most of the time, he never even worked it. He bought it for a project but never did it.

Thanks for all the help guys!!! Next I am going to adjust the brakes and clutch, clean out the belly pan so the clutch disconnect lever works and weld on some bucket teeth. Then replace the rest of the filters and fluids.

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