DRY CLUTCH CARE

Captainjoe · Post by **Captainjoe** » Fri Jan 18, 2013 7:57 am

I've got a JD 440 ICD and just put in about $2K completely rebuilding both finals and clutches. When I tore apart, the steel plates were rusted and some were stuck together with the disks. I replaced all of the fiber disks and sandblasted the plates as they were only slightly rusted.

besides storing the dozer indoors and sealing the square access plates, is there anything else I can do to protect my investmentl

440 iron popper · Post by **440 iron popper** » Fri Jan 18, 2013 8:18 am

Good question. Same for me. Only difference is that It is stored outdoors in a shelter. I guess the only way to keep the clutch packs free is to use it once in a while... I can't use mine this winter. Bad engine clutch needs replacement before.

CELSESSER · Post by **CELSESSER** » Fri Jan 18, 2013 3:06 pm

I have heard tieing back the steering levers but to me it seem like that would just allow moisture to reach the disks easier and allow them to swell more. I just try to run them once a month or so to heat them up to dry them out and scrub off any rust that has formed.
Which reminds me, it's been 2 or 3 months.......

Chuck

Captainjoe · Post by **Captainjoe** » Fri Jan 18, 2013 3:38 pm

I bought a farm last march and it ended up sitting outside a "full garage" for a couple wet months.

It's never been in the water so it seeped in somewhere.

It won't happen agian... there' s gonna be some changes in the garage...

Gil · Post by **Gil** » Fri Jan 18, 2013 4:12 pm

A considerable amount of moisture comes up from the ground not just down from the sky. Keep a moisture barrier UNDER the crawler, especially if the crawler is kept under a tarp where moisture gets in and can not leave. Gil

mapaduke@yahoo.com · Post by **mapaduke@yahoo.com** » Fri Jan 18, 2013 5:11 pm

When I do the finals on mine I will put a bead of silicone around the clutch housings were they bolt to the trans and a bead around the final where it bolts to the housing and use a pipe thread sealant on the 3/4 plug in the bottom of the clutch housing. I do this because I wash them a lot for tractor shows, I don't think I would seal up the square cover on top because when the clutches heat up the housing needs to vent and allows condensation to escape.
Just how I do it.
Ron

Captainjoe · Post by **Captainjoe** » Fri Jan 18, 2013 5:44 pm

don't know about ting levers back??? wouldnt that weaken the pressure plate springs. although you gve e an idea to blow the powder out o the clutch pack occassionally as it would definately hold moisture

I heard that about groud moisture. was going thru dump truck tires and the guy out at that the tire shop said to get them off the dirt and out of the direct sun as it was killing my tires... so i graveled my garage with 57's and now i actually wear the tread off of the tires before they need to be replaced.

May seal around the bell as I haven't mounted finals yet as I'm waiting on some parts rom Lavoy

.

Gil · Post by **Gil** » Sat Jan 19, 2013 6:07 am

The moisture problem with tires is a little different. Soil holds moisture and it may never really dry out. If a tire or metal is constantly in contact with soil it will deteriorate. The stone you use allows the moisture to drain away.

The other problem is moisture coming up from the ground and condensing, which it will do even through stone. In this case you need a vapor barrier like plastic, etc. you can top it with wood or stone to drive on. I use old pieces of roofing tin.

Then the only problem you have to deal with is ground hogs borrowing out at the edge of the tin and piling up dirt right against the crawler tracks. I think mine do it on purpose. Gil

gregjo1948 · Post by **gregjo1948** » Sat Jan 19, 2013 6:38 am

How would it work if you installed block heaters in each side?

gregjo1948

Post by **Lavoy** » Sat Jan 19, 2013 10:42 am

Block heaters are technically "immersion" heaters. If not immersed in coolant, they will burn out in fairly short order.
Lavoy

Gil · Post by **Gil** » Sat Jan 19, 2013 4:30 pm

How about this: buy a couple of hair blow dryers at a yard sale. Stick their nozzles in the round inspection ports in the steering clutch housing. Plug them both into a 24 hour timer to come on low power for an hour every day. The air will go out the louvers in the top plate. The air flow will help as much as the heat will.

Captainjoe · Post by **Captainjoe** » Sat Jan 19, 2013 8:11 pm

Gil wrote:How about this: buy a couple of hair blow dryers at a yard sale. Stick their nozzles in the round inspection ports in the steering clutch housing. Plug them both into a 24 hour timer to come on low power for an hour every day. The air will go out the louvers in the top plate. The air flow will help as much as the heat will.

If you knew you got them wet, that would get the moisture out.

will definately be parking in a nice dry "concrete floor" garage when I get her back together.... LOL

I'm thinking it's the combination of moisture and powder that does em in...hence the occasionally blow em out when dry with compressed air.

when i tore mine apart they were sticking together and it wasn't oil... as the metal plates were rusted.

whiteclipse16 · Post by **whiteclipse16** » Mon Jan 21, 2013 11:11 am

I wouldn't seal that top square cover, because as someone mentioned the case does need to breathe some. You would have to seal the slot that's cut in it also.
All I do is go out and get the crawler started. Put it in gear. Pull the levers back until just before it feels like the brake bands will grab. Let the main engine clutch out and if you steering clutches are adjusted correctly it will slip the steering clutches. Just like under normal operation.
This way, if there is any rust on the steel plates it will shine them right up.
I don't sit there for any length of time like this. I might let them slip for 5 sec. at the most and I do this routine 2 or 3 times.

I got the idea based on the procedure for larger brush hogs. On the 15ft. batwing John Deere mowers it says right in the manual to yearly adjust the slip clutches so they will slip. Then kick the mower on so that the clutches slip in order to "unstick" them if they would be rusted up.
JMO

Ray III · Post by **Ray III** » Thu Jan 24, 2013 6:38 am

As long as you have it under a roof, you don't have to do any witchcraft.

Some people remove their plugs so the machine can sit outside. This is fine as long as you put the plugs back in before going into anything wet!

As to the top covers. No, you can't plug the vent, but I would still put a little silicone where the cover bolts down, because water can get pushed under there in a rainstorm or while washing the machine. Those covers originally had gaskets on them.

Captainjoe · Post by **Captainjoe** » Thu Jan 24, 2013 7:52 pm

I've heard about the slip trick to clean up the plates before and don't believe it would hurt...

I'm not going to seal up the plates only install new gaskets or a bead of silicone on the inner square edge where the gasket is.
old one is falling apart...

the garage is definately where it's going, to protect my investment.

also thinking about hiding a kill switch on it as I get a lot of comments of how nice it is...LOL
.

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