jd2010

Tigerhaze · Post by **Tigerhaze** » Tue Dec 11, 2012 3:53 pm

Hi there-

Regardless of model you are probably not going to be making money off of fixing a vintage crawler- there are a number of posts in the archives on here where we collectively debate that point

The question becomes- what are your needs for a crawler? It sounds from your original post that you were looking for a winter project, but unclear if you were going to keep it or wanting to flip it. If you wanted to put money in a 2010 and have it to own for personal use that may work out as it would be hard to buy at that cost a comparably powered crawler. If you are looking for a "fix and flip" project you are likely not going to get your money back because these crawlers generally don't command a higher dollar value unless fully restored, and even then you may be breaking even.

If wanting to have one for construction projects around the farm, you may be better off to rent one or hires someone if the projects are small in scope and short in duration. The ownership is handier for long-term projects or periodic needs where renting would be a hassle or rental costs would add up.

Paul Buhler · Post by **Paul Buhler** » Wed Dec 12, 2012 10:11 am

Regardless of model you are probably not going to be making money off of fixing a vintage crawler- there are a number of posts in the archives on here where we collectively debate that point

The question becomes- what are your needs for a crawler? It sounds from your original post that you were looking for a winter project, but unclear if you were going to keep it or wanting to flip it. If you wanted to put money in a 2010 and have it to own for personal use that may work out as it would be hard to buy at that cost a comparably powered crawler. If you are looking for a "fix and flip" project you are likely not going to get your money back because these crawlers generally don't command a higher dollar value unless fully restored, and even then you may be breaking even.

If wanting to have one for construction projects around the farm, you may be better off to rent one or hires someone if the projects are small in scope and short in duration. The ownership is handier for long-term projects or periodic needs where renting would be a hassle or rental costs would add up.

Nicely said. I bought my machine a few years ago and it has served me well for small projects and has actually moved a lot of dirt, a little bit at a time. I've also taken down some big trees, and want to remove the stumps - too difficult/risky a job for this machine in my opinion, so I'll bring in a large excavator at some point to do the task. This should be quicker, more cost effective and save my crawler for more suitable, size matched jobs.

dtoots1 · Post by **dtoots1** » Wed Dec 12, 2012 11:02 am

thanks to all of you fine guys...yes i see where other posts reflect the same idea....my thoughts were that i may have access to a couple of jd350s and wondering if for a few extra dollars would be better in long run.
here are some measures i took this am... track pitch meas...frt of back pin to front of 5th pin left is 588mm right is 590mm.
track meas ctr to ctr 5 pins is 595mm on left and 593mm on right.
track link ht on both sides is 3inchs plus4mm.
curious thing left idler meas 3 inchs plu 25mm and right idler measures
4inchs plus 8mm..seems odd to have large idler on right side????
sprocket appears goods shape does not appear to have rounded tips or large wear in the curved sections or their edges.
front wheels appear in good shape.
best i can tell is about 75% worn out from these dims..

thks
dtoots1

Paul Buhler · Post by **Paul Buhler** » Wed Dec 12, 2012 1:22 pm

Just my two cents based on what I've read on the site:

At some point, a 2010 will need repairs and at this time it sounds like some parts are becoming scarce and expensive. Take a look at some of the threads on 350s to read about their relative strengths and weaknesses vs a 2010. I believe that being newer, there are more parts still available at more reasonable prices for a 350. Check out which models are preferred, some of the reversers had issues with springs breaking, etc. I'm sure others will have more to offer on the relative merits of both machines. Good luck. Paul

Tigerhaze · Post by **Tigerhaze** » Wed Dec 12, 2012 2:30 pm

dtoots1 wrote: sprocket appears goods shape does not appear to have rounded tips

Not sure if that is a typo or not, but if the sprocket tips are sharp (pointed) then that indicates extreme sprocket wear near failure and since new sprockets are generally NLA for 2010s, that would be a significant factor in my decision.

I would tend to lean to recommending the 350s due to better parts availability, but it depends on the type of work you propose to do with it or if you are looking for better resale value. The 2010 is slightly more powerful than a 350, especially for a loader, but is heavier and the parts availability and resale value is less than a 350.

dtoots1 · Post by **dtoots1** » Wed Dec 12, 2012 5:53 pm

welllll you folks are really a great help and i thank you immensely.

i did a goof on the measures...tis an old scale...reads in 32nds and 64ths
so 3 and 4/32nds on track ht.
left idler is 3 25/32nds
right idler is 4 8/32nds
the pitch and pin dims are what shown before.
ALSO...the sprocket tips are nice and square not rounded nor tapered at the tip nor edges..nice and flat.
i will wait to see what info mite show up from you fellows

thks again
dtoots1

Tigerhaze · Post by **Tigerhaze** » Wed Dec 12, 2012 9:40 pm

Well it sounds like maybe you have little used sprockets which are a good thing for a 2010. if it is a late model 2010, then you can compare the rail (link) height to the straight 350 specs for rail height since they use the same. If not then rail height is same as late 440/1010. The 2010 isn't listed but if you have rail height near 3 inches you are probabl;y doing pretty good. Your pin/bushing wear appears to be between 75% and 100%

I don't have dimensions for the other undercarriage components- usually you look for the wear indicators (wear in specific locations and specific types of damage) or symptoms such as jumping track or snaking of track rather than measurements because it is a very involved task to come up with percent wear for the overall undercarriage.

Tracks can last for quite a while with extreme wear (even beyond 100%) if used infrequently in good conditions. It gets back to how often and what you will use it for, or if for resale. If a late model 2010, worst case is you could replace tracks with 350 tracks. The bottom rollers and top idler are still available for 2010s as best as I know- the sprockets and front idlers are NLA new. If early 2010 (as it sounds like you have) and rails are worn you are out of luck for new rails unless you can find late model sprockets.

Most straight 350s that don't have significant problems are going $5K or higher in my area- prices vary between locales and by condition. As a general rule though you are not going to find a 350 less than $5K unless it has some major problems.

dtoots1 · Post by **dtoots1** » Sun Feb 10, 2013 11:09 am

went back again to look at sprockets and get a number off of them...
right side sprocket has a number of either t13254t or 18254t...left side seems to only have a large number showing 316....pads have 4 bolts on the tracks....these sprockets actually appear to be very good shape the concave portions are all nice and flat and the top points are squared and have approx 3/4 inch flat surface at the top.
tried to find a name/number on the distributor but cannot see any...
the dust cover has autolite electric co. name on it. would that be name of distributor also???
he has gas tank off so not able to do any checking for start ...needs a bunch of cleaning and distributor work before can attempt.

track etc info shown on previous posts....
jdparts does not show this number to be a sprocket and doesnt even list the 2010c in parts list so need you guys help.

thks

jtrichard · Post by **jtrichard** » Sun Feb 10, 2013 1:29 pm

t 13294 t is the early sprocket number on a 2010

Tigerhaze · Post by **Tigerhaze** » Mon Feb 11, 2013 5:41 pm

dtoots1 wrote: tried to find a name/number on the distributor but cannot see any...
the dust cover has autolite electric co. name on it. would that be name of distributor also???

My 2010s are diesel. From other posts, I think there were multiple manufacturers for the distributors similar to the 1010 which included Prestolite, Wico, and Delco.

dtoots1 · Post by **dtoots1** » Thu Feb 14, 2013 11:30 am

tiger,
have his book on it now..shows that they have 3 different kinds and that the coil needs to match the distributor...however, they have now got an alternator on it with an unmarked coil...brands are...delco, prestolite and wico distributors....i need the rotor so guess wlll have to buy 3 and see which one tis....hoping delco..book lists model numbers of the distr so maybe napa can get a match...

by the way....is missing gas tank....guys buddy took it off claims he junked it!!!! dip head...anyone got one and how much???
thks
dtoots 1

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